The BritishV8 Pub

Gentlemen,

We need a check list for information to pass on to each new driver, information such as:

1. What the switches on the console are for.
2. How the air bag pump should be operated.
3. What octane gas to use.
4. Recomended tire pressures.
5. Notice that the manual choke knob is disconnected and how the choke operates.
6. Where the registration and insurance papers are stored.
7. Any warnings/peculiarities that should be noted.
8. Anything else you can think of.

I will be happy to print this info and have it laminated so we can keep it with the car and have it available for new drivers.

For the air ride, the brass button is the air bleed, the red button runs the compressor. Around 80 psi is appropriate, season to taste.
Compression is 8:1 at best so you can run whatever gas is the cheapest.
About 25 psi in the tires should be in the ballpark.
The choke is disconnected? Better check with Steve on that.
I think the papers should be in the console.

Jim

Great Idea Dan.

Operating the choke...

To set the choke, press the throttle pedal all the way to the floor before starting the (cold) engine. This does three things. Firstly, it temporarily closes the choke butterflies. Secondly, it temporarily sets the throttle linkage to a fast-idle setting. Thirdly, it causes the carb's accelerator pump mechanism to squirt a bit of gasoline into the engine. (More than a few of us operate our own old V8s without a choke of any kind - we just use our accelerator pumps to richen the mixture for starting.) The choke mechanism is thermostatic, and it will turn itself off when the engine warms. If the idle speed seems too high, a blip of the throttle will usually reset the linkage to its regular throttle position.

From my brief experience with it, the Roadmaster typically starts easily and it's probably not all that critical whether drivers know this procedure or not. Idle speed isn't always perfect... but I certainly wouldn't call this beast fussy.


Anything else to note?

Fuel - The gauge will need some sorting out. The fuel gauge is apparently mismatched to the MG sensor. (This is a common problem, and NOT a hard one to live with.) The gauge is accurate at "full", but when it reads "half full" you should probably start seriously looking for a gas station!

Oil - The oil level needs to be checked at every single fill-up and frankly/ideally it should be checked more frequently then that. Currently, the Roadmaster seems to need about one quart of oil (20W50) at each fill-up. (I guess that depends on how far you go between fill-ups.) This should NOT be a cause for panic or derision. It's not at all uncommon for piston rings to take some time to develop a good seal to the cylinder bores. However, it IS important that the engine not be run empty. Don't forget to check the oil.

Coolant: The surge tank should be 1/4 to 3/4 full. No more than that. If it makes a gurgling or bubbling sound right after shut off the level is acceptable. If it does not, it needs to be checked. The tank holds a reserve of up to a gallon of extra coolant above and beyond normal system requirements.We have had no problems with heat management once the timing was sorted out, and should have no problems.

However, the bulb type thermostatic switch that controls the fan leaves something to be desired. It seemed to me that it had too much hysteresis, such that setting it so the fan came on at a reasonable temp meant it also ran excessively after the ignition was turned off, draining the battery. Possibly, clamping the bulb to the radiator tank in some way (heavy aluminum "speed tape" perhaps) might improve operation.

The spare key is located underneath, in the back on, held on by a nut, unless someone has changed that. Did the speedo get calibrated? Apparently an resistor can be added to the fuel gage to get it to read closer.

I used an adjustable potentiometer (adjustable resistor) for the gauge on my Kawasaki Concours. Takes a bit of fiddling to get it right but works great.

I think it would be a nice gesture if the Roadmaster was handed off to the next driver with a full tank of fuel.

Rick, I heartily agree with that. Seems like the right thing to do, pay for what you use and not for anyone elses. Some of us will have a heavier foot I think and get a bit less mileage! ;-) That is especially good for the Power Tour where you may not have a lot of time to fill up in the morning before we head out. Just top it off the night before you hand off.

What oil should we use? 5W-40? brand?

I think 10w-40 was pretty standard for those year engines, and our oil pressure looks OK with it. I don't think we should go any thinner than that though, as we really didn't go to any great lengths to minimize bearing clearances. As for what type, as far as I'm concerned as long as it is a good quality oil and we add sufficient zinc to prevent cam wear, any brand should be about the same as any other, for as long as the engine is still using oil. Once it finishes breaking in and oil consumption drops off maybe we should think about synthetics.

Jim

I put Valvoline VR1 20W50 in it. High in Zinc/Phosphorus.

The spare tire will nly fit the rear. there are lug nuts for the spare in a plastic bag with the spare.

Steve

To jack the car up: Put the block of wood under the jack. Put the jack under the sill near the tire to be changed (rear tire only). Jack the car up. If a front flat you must change the rear first as the spare will not fit the front. Under the sills works for front or rear.

steve