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I'm looking for an engine girdle for my olds 215 build. Any leads appreciated

Anybody? Ready to order stud sets for engine and hate to have to do it again should the "girdle' pop up. I have the engine boring plate (built for rover,buick,olds app) almost completed that would be availble to you pretty quickly if you need it. I've got to have all the pieces together now for the machine shop to start the +.030 block overbore, balance, blue printing, etc.
below are the estimated cam and outputs of the engine. This is with 300 crank (4.3L) Any thoughts on these specs? Do I need a girdle even?

Thanks dave bash

"I re-ran your cam optimizing for best average power between
4000 and 6500 RPM. This will put peak power at 6000 RPM and
you'd shift at 6500 RPM for best acceleration. I assumed:
1 5/8" headers, 10" long by 2.5" diameter collector 2.5", high flow mufflers
9.5:1 compression
single plane std flow intake manifold
650 CFM Holley double pumper carb
your ported Buick 300 cylinder head flow numbers

The resultant cam specs are:

277/287 degrees seat duration
0.526"/0.490"
111 LSA
60 degrees overlap

Vizard's cam selection criteria agree with the 111 LSA as being
optimal for your engine. For street performance, he recommends
50 to 70 degrees overlap with the higher number for small valve
heads so this cam should behave on the street. We could push it
up the RPM range a bit (increase duration to get more overlap).
Prediction is 334 HP at 6000 RPM and a torque peak at 4600 RPM.
This assumes a relatively aggressive ramp rate of 3.72. That might
be a bit high for the small diameter GM lifters. I re-ran for a
more moderate 3.0 ramp rate and it lost around 10 HP. This also
assumes Jon's flow bench numbers. My heads on Dave's bench were
a bit lower. I substituted those and it lost another 10 HP.
So I think a conservative prediction would be 315 HP @ 6000 RPM
for a 9.5:1 engine that'll run on pump gas, be easy to drive on
the street and live a good long life."