Other Cars (British & British-Inspired)

I am looking for information and pics from anybody who has installed a BOP / Rover engine into a TVR 2500M.
Pics showing the exhaust headers and/or engine mounts would be especially helpful. Currently the car has a Chevy 350 which i would like to swap to Rover 3.5 V8.

I've got the 215 BOP/Rover in my TR6, which I believe contributed the original engine to your TVR--the 2.5 liter straight six. While that doesn't mean much else is the same under there, the fact that you've got a SBC in there confirms that you can fit the 8 width and have a steering fix for a vee's increased width.

It's cold and snowy here--he said to the guy from Canada--but if it warms up a little in the coming days, I'll go out into my unheated garage and snap some relevant stuff under the hood. Your nose is very sharp on the TVR--what's that SBC have for a radiator--is it angled?

Kris Palmer

Thanks Kris for your interest in my project.
The challenge with the TVR is the position of the tubular frame rail which interferes with the exhaust headers.
Check out the creative headers on the SBC. I really don't want this kind of solution since it creates a problem for the removal of the valve covers. You can see the (Chrysler) rad in this photo.

WHOA! Really snuggly with the carb! LOL. Engine placement is really nice. How is the weight distribution now? Cool car.

Martyn,

Can you modify (move) the encroaching tube so you can widen your engine bay?

Flip over to the Triumph page and look at the post by Ed Olson-- v869tr6. He built a tubular chassis for his turbo (very fast) TR6. Maybe his car would give you some ideas about possible mods.

Looks like your current frame and engine bay don't leave you many options.

Kris

Martyn:

Below I cut and pasted part of an article I'm writing about my 2500M conversion. I hope you will find it helpful for set up you own engine mounts

"Now you can go about making your own engine mounts. To make it look more like a factory installation, I used the original rubber mounts and made templates to replicate the metal frame mounts. Get yourself some steel then trace and cut them out. Their final location on the frame I would determine later. With that part done, all you have left it to custom fabricate something to span the distance from the new V6 to the rubber mounts. Place the new metal and rubber mount in a general location that is center to the mounting bolt holes on the engine (don't weld in place yet). Take some measurements and start cutting some new steel, I used mostly angle iron. You'll need a welder for this part. My custom mount looks basically like a block style "C". It gives you easy access to bolts/nuts and from the front of the car the bolts/nuts are hidden from view (see pic).

Bolt this custom piece to the engine, bolt on rubber mount, bolt on replica frame mount. Then tack weld replica frame mount in place. The replica is behind the original location. Repeat the whole process for the other side. Then unbolt it to pull the engine/tranny so you can get good access to finish welding the replica frame mounts. With the replicas solidly in place, I'll be removing the originals."


A = Original Frame Mount, B = Replica
C = Custom "C" Bracket

Hi Martin,

Have you considered a Ford 302? These are made with a very light block by V8 standards; the weight difference between the SBC and the SBF motor is around 200 lbs. Parts availability is excellent as well and a further weight reduction can be found via the use of aluminium cylinder heads. As the distance between the exhaust port outlets on opposite banks is much smaller than on the SBC, the exhausts can be routed down and back although it's still not easy if you want headers. If you would be accepting of cast iron exhaust manifolds, as I understand, there's not much of a problem. Pay close attention to the exhaust port shape and location if you select aluminum heads as higher ports place the turn-downs nearer to the upper frame tube on the M chassis. As the 351 block has a taller deck height than the 302, you'd be facing the same problems that you already have.

Also, I strongly urge you to call John and Doug at 416.752.7226 and/or see if you can have a look at one of TVR North America's 5000Ms.

Bernard.

Thanks Bernard.
I do have a 302 with T5 tranny attached I can fit into the car. I would be happy with cast headers if they fit easily. Do you know of a good source for these?

Thanks,
Martyn

Martyn,

Sorry, I know I am highjacking your thread but seeing your avatar:

Was that your Rubber bumper B at the V8 meet last week with the older tail lamps?


I have so many of the old type tail-lamps laying around from Bs and Spridgets I have parted out but didn't think I would like those with rubber bumpers until I saw the Black V8 with those installed.

-BMC.

Hi Martyn,
[www.mustangtek.com] -these seem as though they might be the tightest package
[www.mre-books.com] -look at the 351W exhaust manifold, it may provide reasonable performance as well. That said, I'd try that one.

Have you given any thought to re-routing your exhaust in a similar fashion to the modern Griffiths? Up, forward, down, back. This way you can leave your engine &&&......in place and still remove the valve covers.

BH

Hi Brian,

Yes, that was my car. I think the early tail lights enhance the design and style of the MGB....even a rubber bumper car.

Martyn

Hi Bernard,

Thanks for the info on the headers. I do intend swapping to the 302 motor.

Martyn

Martyn,

I just noticed your "cool" brakes!
As noted above, there's a decent weight reduction to be found in switching to the 302.
Your brakes should feel even better.

B.

Bernard,

The brakes work very well. I don't drive the car very often and since I'm not retired yet I'm in no hurry to start the engine swap.
I fully intend to remove the Chevy engine....if I keep the car. I have both a 302 and a Rover engine to choose from. I'm sure the 302 would be awesome but I have a real "soft spot" for the Rover. My energy is going into an MGB GT V8 project first though.
New pic attached showing ROTA rims.

Martyn

Does anybody know the weight of a 1969 Chevy V8 vs a 1988 Ford Mustang V8 302 with carb?
Does anybody know the weight of the Ford 302 with cast heads vs aluminum heads?
I have checked the internet but it's difficult to find a comparison that compares them "apples to apples".

I do not know the curbweight but am currently putting a 86 mustang 302 with a carb into a 74 2500M. It is quite a squeeze with the headers, but can be done without cutting the frame tubes, as long as you can live with 1/16 inch tolerances. I'm using Sanderson block hugger headers that I modified. The motor mounts were modified and a serpentine waterpump and pulley system from Ford Racing will save the 1 inch you will need up front. I can send the pics and part#'s if you like. This is the mock up block. The resto is a complete body off.

Re: Weight

[www.team.net]

[www.mgbv8.org]

[forums.hybridz.org]

B

Thanks Bill. This information really helps. I would certainly like more pics and part numbers. You can send them to me at harv8@sympatico.ca or post them here.

Again, many thanks.

Martyn

Martyn

This is how the car is progressing. The driveline is complete witha T5 trans and a Q45 Infiniti rear. There is a kit to convert the cable driven clutch to a slave cylinder setup from a Mustang shop out of Texas. There is also a setup from Goodparts (in Pa.) to mount the Q45 rear in a TR6 which also works (with mods) for the TVR. I also bought complete hubs from Goodparts. The driveshaft was built by a local shop using a T5 yoke and flange that mounts to the Q45 rear..The motor mounts are from Speedway and are the ones used for a sprint car setup. I put small neoprene mounts to try to absorb some of the vibration. It requires cutting off the original mount from the frame and welding a small plate on the 6" round crosstube above the bottom frame tube. The alternator setup is from Speedway, but a custom mounting bracket has to be made. To get the engine to fit up front, a "shorty" serpentine waterpump (reverse flow) setup was used from Ford Racing. You will need the complete timing cover package, dampener, and pulley combo. The Goodyear belt is 39". The oil filter has to be relocated, I used a kit from FactoryFive. A mini starter is required because of the headers. The Sanderson headers need to be modified by having them hug the block more. There was no cutting or welding. I mounted them upside down on the mockup block, put torsion rods in the header tubes, put a come along on the torsion rods and pulled them together and bent them inwards about 1 1/2 inches on each side. Barbaric, but effective. The front square tubes for the spare tire were removed to mount the Griffin rad.The original oilpan will not work because the drain plug will hit the front frame crossmember. Summitt racing has a pan that has the drain on the left side and does not hit the frame. The T5 trans shifter sits back about 2 inches and a custom shifter that angles forwars is needed. Available at Factory Five. I'll send more pics as it goes along. My direct email is Bsasser307@aol.com

Bill

Many thanks Bill......I'll email you