Project Journals

Here is a link to "Part 1" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 2" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 3" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]


Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.


Restoring Boot area

Another major job at the back end of this car that needs attention is the licence plate surround. Although never heavily damaged from collision, rust has taken its toll.

I first cut out the basic layout that I would recreate and used templates to keep both sides centered and symetrical.
Then worked some 20 guage on the English Wheel to get the same compound curve of the original rusted panel.

Rust affected area on top:


Underneath:


Forming replacement panel:


Sizing:


Centered and symetrical:


Rusted area cut out:


Replacement panel trimmed:


Welded in place:


More tools, namely, shrinking disc, hammer and dolly:


The shrinking disc is a new one to me. I quickly found a need for one when working this panel's shape while welding. The concept is to heat the metal using the friction of the stainless steel disc rubbing against the high points of your panel, then spray the hot spots with water to shrink them in comparision to the surrounding area. I made this one using sheet stainless but might buy one of these:
[www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com]

Left with a thin 20 guage metal edge, I decided to use 1/4" round rod to finish the licence plate surround. Formed some solid rod to match the opening, tacked in place then welded.

The inner filler panel, as I call it, does an interesting transition. In trying to keep with the original Series I E-type look, the vertical sides should be a straightcut, 90 degree opening. The top inside opening should be offset upwards, creating a hidden filler area. I worked this sheet metal so it would lay on top of the 1/4" rod when installed rather than welding it to the bottom.

1/4" formed rod:


Tacked in place:


Welding finished:




Filler panel:


Filler panel welded in:




Panel transitions from side of rod to top of rod:


Long ago, I removed the licence plate panel from the purchased boot assembly in order to fit it to the body.


Time to put it all back together.

Licence plate panel and stiffeners:


Area prepared:


It took nearly 100 plug welds to get this installed:


Completed for now:




Interesting detail. This is the drain hole for the hatch seal area:


Series I, E-type licence plate surround:


Fuel Tank

A few changes were made to the fuel tank to suit my purposes. Jaguar was kind enough to feature a sump but I decided to go without. That was filled. The tank used to rest on three brackets. Because things were getting crowded at the front of the boot, I decided to "hang" it for those two front supports and have it "rest" on a bracket at the rear.

Tank trimmed:


Hanging brackets fabricated:


Brackets installed:




Had to trim one of the boot ribs to fit the tank:


Rear bracket with captive nut:


Hanging at front:


Slips in and out easily:


Steering Shaft

Finished up the steering shaft assembly. I got off easy on this build. It was pretty much a straight shot from the steering column to the rack. With a total of three U-joints, I had to use an intermediate bearing which was no sweat. The components are from 3/4 ton Chevy vans. I like them because in an OEM installation, they're enclosed in a plastic tube which keeps them clean and lubed. I included the vibration dampener and the sliding shaft.

I fabricated an entry port for the shaft to enter the interior fron 3/16" aluminum. This will have a rubber or foam seal.

Assembled:




Intermediate bearing and vibration dampener:


Aluminum entry port:


Accessory Brackets

I hate doing things twice, but three times, that's ridiculous. I had trouble providing clearance for the front tires at full lock and clearance for the bonnet. I'm pretty sure this version will work.

I used the original GM serpentine belt tensioner and bought one idler pulley. Otherwise, it was just alot of measuring and fitting. I'll pretty it up with polished fasteners and paint later.



Alternater:


A/C pump:




Tensioner and idler pulley:




Triangulation

Been working on a number of things lately, namely, the roll bar, bonnet, headlight covers, radiator, front sway bar and steering stops. Nothing finished. But I did manage to complete a pair of forward struts to add some triangulation to the front end. At the scuttle, I added two vertical 2x2” tubes on the firewall and tied things together behind the tubes. I didn’t have too many choices for routing of the struts due to tire, accessory and master brake cylinder clearances.


My protector:






Relocating Front Anti-sway Bar

While laying out plans for mounting the radiator and bonnet hinges, it became apparent the original location of the front sway bar was more of a hindrance than help. I proceeded to relocate it to behind the front axle.

Original front clip with bar at front:


Two lower control arms, original on left. I had to keep the same heim joint mount angle when fabricating a new bracket for the LCA:


Finished LCA mount:




Welding in 3/8" nuts to underside of frame is a pain. Overhead welding in confined space:


Knocked down weld:


Sway bar outer tube and bushing mounts were just trimmed from original front clip:


Just clears brake caliper:


Just clears engine oil pan:


Roll Bar

I originally envisioned an 8 point cage for this car but despite a great deal of research, when I sat in the cockpit, I realized I'd be giving up too much comfort and space in a car that wouldn't be raced on a regular basis. So I settled on a 4 point roll bar.
Even that was a tight squeeze. I had to inset the vertical portion of the roll hoop into the rear wheel well to clear the back of the seat yet leave enough room for the rear tire.
I had a race shop bend the roll hoop for me then added the three braces. Fish mouthing the tube ends was made easier by first producing a paper pattern then transfering it to the final tube. Trim, test, trim, test.

Fitting angle brace to top left corner of roll hoop:


Fitting rear brace:


Finished corner:


Right side:


For the rear braces, I used sliding tubes of paper that I could produce a pattern adjusting for length and orientation to each end:


Bottom attachment point required a filler piece, (assembly not welded to frame):


Ready to install:


With the roll bar installed, I could finally finish the sheet metal work around it for the wheel wells and the rear deck area. A lot of fitting and filling.

Two flat sections:


Weld through primer:


Left side roll hoop vertical:


Left side wheel well cut out:


Right side roll hoop vertical:


Right side wheel well cut out:


I set the roll hoop at a 20 degree angle from vertical, same as the quarter window hinge and the seats:


The inward angle is at 13 degrees, same as the side glass:


In place. I'm using stand offs to connect it to the roof cant rails:


Before the final installation, I gave it a coat of primer and satin black paint. It'll need to be shot again but the worst of it is done:


Exhaust Part #2

Something else on the list of things to do was finish the exhaust system. With the car on the chassis table and the new boot installed, now was the time. I ended Part #1 of the exhaust build with the single 3" Magnaflow muffler hanging just in front of the IRS.



I now wanted to split the single 3" pipe back into two 2 1/2" pipes and into two resonators angling upwards in typical E-type style.
The two 18" long resonators that I bought, didn't leave me many options for placement so I started with these and worked my way towards the muffler. Setting my spacing and clearance under the IRS, I worked joining the 2-1 merge collector to the two 18 degree mandrel bends that I had already welded extensions to.

Setting width and level with 18 degree bends:


Adjusting for butt welds:


Finished:


The 3" pipe coming out of the muffler needed to be offset down 2 1/16" and kicked over 9/16" to bring it into the center line of the car. The muffler/driveshaft tunnel is off center towards the passenger side to account for the differential pinion offset. I used a 3" 180 degree bend to fabricate the required 2 1/8" rolled offset.

Collection of parts. 3" dia. 180 degree mandrel bend, 2-1 merge collector, V band clamp flange:


Pictorial of V band clamp:


Layout of cuts on paper first:


Pieces prepped:


Welded with V band clamp:


I found the easiest way to join the offset to the merge collector was to mount the two in place, then trim them to fit, tack weld together, then bench weld. The offset was fixed to the muffler and the merge collector conveniently sat on the chassis table, level and at the correct height.

Offset and merge collector in place:


Trimming for butt weld:


Twin pipes at back, level and spaced:


Bench weld:


Completed:


Setting up for 18 degree upturns:


Had to fill original Jaguar reverse light opening, (got other plans):


Tacked together some stainless for mounting the resonators:




Finished off mounts:


Mounting the resonators

I welded 1/8" plate, front and back to the boot floor to mount the resonators, keeping them spaced and level. These plates accept the two different sized vibration isolator mounts.
The stainless brackets I fabricated use two 1/4-20 button head screws that fasten into the nuts I welded inside the 2 1/2" exhaust pipe.
I ran out of 18 degree mandrel bends so I'll order two more to mount at the end of the resonators to exit level.

Forward mounts, 18 degrees from level:


Front and rear mounts:


Detail of mount with 1/4-20 button head screws:


Clearance to boot floor:


Resonators hung:


18 degree up, exhaust tips to come:


The front section of the exhaust system has been ceramic coated on the outside and has an XMC coating on the inside to further drop the heat transfer:


The whole system as pictured weighs in at 38 lbs:


Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.


Thanks for looking.

Here is a link to "Part 5" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]
Ken



Edited 18 time(s). Last edit at 10/30/2015 03:21PM by TR6-6SPD.

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