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TR6-6SPD
Ken Hiebert
Toronto Ontario
(237 posts)

Registered:
04/23/2008 11:43AM

Main British Car:
1972 TR6 1994 5.7 L GM LT1

authors avatar
Ken Hiebert's 1965 Jaguar E-Type with GM LS1 V8, "Part 4"
Posted by: TR6-6SPD
Date: January 14, 2014 04:36PM

Here is a link to "Part 1" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 2" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]

Here is a link to "Part 3" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]


Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.


Restoring Boot area

Another major job at the back end of this car that needs attention is the licence plate surround. Although never heavily damaged from collision, rust has taken its toll.

I first cut out the basic layout that I would recreate and used templates to keep both sides centered and symetrical.
Then worked some 20 guage on the English Wheel to get the same compound curve of the original rusted panel.

Rust affected area on top:
IMG_3211.JPG

Underneath:
IMG_3209.JPG

Forming replacement panel:
IMG_3212.JPG

Sizing:
IMG_3213.JPG

Centered and symetrical:
IMG_3217.JPG

Rusted area cut out:
IMG_3286.JPG

Replacement panel trimmed:
IMG_3291.JPG

Welded in place:
IMG_3294.JPG

More tools, namely, shrinking disc, hammer and dolly:
IMG_3295.JPG

The shrinking disc is a new one to me. I quickly found a need for one when working this panel's shape while welding. The concept is to heat the metal using the friction of the stainless steel disc rubbing against the high points of your panel, then spray the hot spots with water to shrink them in comparision to the surrounding area. I made this one using sheet stainless but might buy one of these:
[www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com]

Left with a thin 20 guage metal edge, I decided to use 1/4" round rod to finish the licence plate surround. Formed some solid rod to match the opening, tacked in place then welded.

The inner filler panel, as I call it, does an interesting transition. In trying to keep with the original Series I E-type look, the vertical sides should be a straightcut, 90 degree opening. The top inside opening should be offset upwards, creating a hidden filler area. I worked this sheet metal so it would lay on top of the 1/4" rod when installed rather than welding it to the bottom.

1/4" formed rod:
IMG_3314.JPG

Tacked in place:
IMG_3315.JPG

Welding finished:
IMG_3322.JPG

IMG_3323.JPG

Filler panel:
IMG_3319.JPG

Filler panel welded in:
IMG_3327.JPG

IMG_3325.JPG

Panel transitions from side of rod to top of rod:
IMG_3331.JPG

Long ago, I removed the licence plate panel from the purchased boot assembly in order to fit it to the body.
IMG_2985-003.JPG

Time to put it all back together.

Licence plate panel and stiffeners:
IMG_3332.JPG

Area prepared:
IMG_3333.JPG

It took nearly 100 plug welds to get this installed:
IMG_3335.JPG

Completed for now:
IMG_3337.JPG

IMG_3338.JPG

Interesting detail. This is the drain hole for the hatch seal area:
IMG_3343.JPG

Series I, E-type licence plate surround:
IMG_3341.JPG

Fuel Tank

A few changes were made to the fuel tank to suit my purposes. Jaguar was kind enough to feature a sump but I decided to go without. That was filled. The tank used to rest on three brackets. Because things were getting crowded at the front of the boot, I decided to "hang" it for those two front supports and have it "rest" on a bracket at the rear.

Tank trimmed:
IMG_3182.JPG

Hanging brackets fabricated:
IMG_3201.JPG

Brackets installed:
IMG_3204.JPG

IMG_3206.JPG

Had to trim one of the boot ribs to fit the tank:
IMG_3344.JPG

Rear bracket with captive nut:
IMG_3203.JPG

Hanging at front:
IMG_3347.JPG

Slips in and out easily:
IMG_3350.JPG

Steering Shaft

Finished up the steering shaft assembly. I got off easy on this build. It was pretty much a straight shot from the steering column to the rack. With a total of three U-joints, I had to use an intermediate bearing which was no sweat. The components are from 3/4 ton Chevy vans. I like them because in an OEM installation, they're enclosed in a plastic tube which keeps them clean and lubed. I included the vibration dampener and the sliding shaft.

I fabricated an entry port for the shaft to enter the interior fron 3/16" aluminum. This will have a rubber or foam seal.

Assembled:
IMG_3712.JPG

IMG_3713.JPG

Intermediate bearing and vibration dampener:
IMG_3714.JPG

Aluminum entry port:
IMG_3716.JPG

Accessory Brackets

I hate doing things twice, but three times, that's ridiculous. I had trouble providing clearance for the front tires at full lock and clearance for the bonnet. I'm pretty sure this version will work.

I used the original GM serpentine belt tensioner and bought one idler pulley. Otherwise, it was just alot of measuring and fitting. I'll pretty it up with polished fasteners and paint later.

IMG_3781.JPG

Alternater:
IMG_3783.JPG

A/C pump:
IMG_3784.JPG

IMG_3785.JPG

Tensioner and idler pulley:
IMG_3786.JPG

IMG_3787.JPG

Triangulation

Been working on a number of things lately, namely, the roll bar, bonnet, headlight covers, radiator, front sway bar and steering stops. Nothing finished. But I did manage to complete a pair of forward struts to add some triangulation to the front end. At the scuttle, I added two vertical 2x2Ē tubes on the firewall and tied things together behind the tubes. I didnít have too many choices for routing of the struts due to tire, accessory and master brake cylinder clearances.

IMG_3845.JPG
My protector:
IMG_3846.JPG

IMG_3848.JPG

IMG_3849.JPG

Relocating Front Anti-sway Bar

While laying out plans for mounting the radiator and bonnet hinges, it became apparent the original location of the front sway bar was more of a hindrance than help. I proceeded to relocate it to behind the front axle.

Original front clip with bar at front:
IMG_6449.JPG

Two lower control arms, original on left. I had to keep the same heim joint mount angle when fabricating a new bracket for the LCA:
IMG_5967.JPG

Finished LCA mount:
IMG_5971.JPG

IMG_5972.JPG

Welding in 3/8" nuts to underside of frame is a pain. Overhead welding in confined space:
IMG_5975.JPG

Knocked down weld:
IMG_5978.JPG

Sway bar outer tube and bushing mounts were just trimmed from original front clip:
IMG_5982.JPG

Just clears brake caliper:
IMG_5985.JPG

Just clears engine oil pan:
IMG_5991.JPG

Roll Bar

I originally envisioned an 8 point cage for this car but despite a great deal of research, when I sat in the cockpit, I realized I'd be giving up too much comfort and space in a car that wouldn't be raced on a regular basis. So I settled on a 4 point roll bar.
Even that was a tight squeeze. I had to inset the vertical portion of the roll hoop into the rear wheel well to clear the back of the seat yet leave enough room for the rear tire.
I had a race shop bend the roll hoop for me then added the three braces. Fish mouthing the tube ends was made easier by first producing a paper pattern then transfering it to the final tube. Trim, test, trim, test.

Fitting angle brace to top left corner of roll hoop:
IMG_5928.JPG

Fitting rear brace:
IMG_5932.JPG

Finished corner:
IMG_5940.JPG

Right side:
IMG_5944.JPG

For the rear braces, I used sliding tubes of paper that I could produce a pattern adjusting for length and orientation to each end:
IMG_5930.JPG

Bottom attachment point required a filler piece, (assembly not welded to frame):
IMG_6024.JPG

Ready to install:
IMG_5948.JPG

With the roll bar installed, I could finally finish the sheet metal work around it for the wheel wells and the rear deck area. A lot of fitting and filling.

Two flat sections:
IMG_6072.JPG

Weld through primer:
IMG_6073.JPG

Left side roll hoop vertical:
IMG_6082.JPG

Left side wheel well cut out:
IMG_6084.JPG

Right side roll hoop vertical:
IMG_6083.JPG

Right side wheel well cut out:
IMG_6086.JPG

I set the roll hoop at a 20 degree angle from vertical, same as the quarter window hinge and the seats:
IMG_5938.JPG

The inward angle is at 13 degrees, same as the side glass:
IMG_5939.JPG

In place. I'm using stand offs to connect it to the roof cant rails:
IMG_5935.JPG

Before the final installation, I gave it a coat of primer and satin black paint. It'll need to be shot again but the worst of it is done:
IMG_6087.JPG

Exhaust Part #2

Something else on the list of things to do was finish the exhaust system. With the car on the chassis table and the new boot installed, now was the time. I ended Part #1 of the exhaust build with the single 3" Magnaflow muffler hanging just in front of the IRS.

IMG_5674.JPG

I now wanted to split the single 3" pipe back into two 2 1/2" pipes and into two resonators angling upwards in typical E-type style.
The two 18" long resonators that I bought, didn't leave me many options for placement so I started with these and worked my way towards the muffler. Setting my spacing and clearance under the IRS, I worked joining the 2-1 merge collector to the two 18 degree mandrel bends that I had already welded extensions to.

Setting width and level with 18 degree bends:
IMG_6002.JPG

Adjusting for butt welds:
IMG_6001.JPG

Finished:
IMG_6005.JPG

The 3" pipe coming out of the muffler needed to be offset down 2 1/16" and kicked over 9/16" to bring it into the center line of the car. The muffler/driveshaft tunnel is off center towards the passenger side to account for the differential pinion offset. I used a 3" 180 degree bend to fabricate the required 2 1/8" rolled offset.

Collection of parts. 3" dia. 180 degree mandrel bend, 2-1 merge collector, V band clamp flange:
IMG_5995.JPG

Pictorial of V band clamp:
1486_WEBL.jpg

Layout of cuts on paper first:
IMG_5996.JPG

Pieces prepped:
IMG_5997.JPG

Welded with V band clamp:
IMG_6008.JPG

I found the easiest way to join the offset to the merge collector was to mount the two in place, then trim them to fit, tack weld together, then bench weld. The offset was fixed to the muffler and the merge collector conveniently sat on the chassis table, level and at the correct height.

Offset and merge collector in place:
IMG_6010.JPG

Trimming for butt weld:
IMG_6012.JPG

Twin pipes at back, level and spaced:
IMG_6013.JPG

Bench weld:
IMG_6014.JPG

Completed:
IMG_6015.JPG

Setting up for 18 degree upturns:
IMG_6019.JPG

Had to fill original Jaguar reverse light opening, (got other plans):
IMG_6039.JPG

Tacked together some stainless for mounting the resonators:
IMG_6034.JPG

IMG_6041.JPG

Finished off mounts:
IMG_6058.JPG

Mounting the resonators

I welded 1/8" plate, front and back to the boot floor to mount the resonators, keeping them spaced and level. These plates accept the two different sized vibration isolator mounts.
The stainless brackets I fabricated use two 1/4-20 button head screws that fasten into the nuts I welded inside the 2 1/2" exhaust pipe.
I ran out of 18 degree mandrel bends so I'll order two more to mount at the end of the resonators to exit level.

Forward mounts, 18 degrees from level:
IMG_6054.JPG

Front and rear mounts:
IMG_6057.JPG

Detail of mount with 1/4-20 button head screws:
IMG_6063.JPG

Clearance to boot floor:
IMG_6062.JPG

Resonators hung:
IMG_6067.JPG

18 degree up, exhaust tips to come:
IMG_6122.JPG

The front section of the exhaust system has been ceramic coated on the outside and has an XMC coating on the inside to further drop the heat transfer:
IMG_6116.JPG

The whole system as pictured weighs in at 38 lbs:
IMG_6112.JPG

Please note: The photos in this thread are displayed at 600x450 pixels. If you see a little box-in-a-box logo in the upper right hand corner of the photo, click anywhere on the photo to blow it up to full size - in a new window. This new window can then be maximized for a still larger image.


Thanks for looking.

Here is a link to "Part 5" of the project:
[forum.britishv8.org]
Ken



Edited 18 time(s). Last edit at 10/30/2015 03:21PM by TR6-6SPD.


Moderator
Curtis Jacobson
Portland Oregon
(4366 posts)

Registered:
10/12/2007 02:16AM

Main British Car:
71 MGBGT, Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: Ken Hiebert's 1965 Jaguar E-Type with GM LS1 V8, "Part 4"
Posted by: Moderator
Date: March 22, 2018 02:50AM

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