Rootes Group Cars

John, Real Dunlop wheels are rare and special. I was just showing you what you could do with steel wheels. Kind of retro look. The Alpine stock wire wheel is same as MG Midget splined wire wheel hub. It would be easy to convert the front to MGB as the inside bearing is the same as MGB. Outer bearing needs a sleeve for smaller Alpine race. Knock off solid wheels are usually 8 spoke Minilite style and very expensive. I would convert the rear hubs to Alpine bolt pattern and just get the solid wheels and fake knockoffs. Have you seen the 15 x 7 Mustang Turbine wheels in the other thread? They are Alpine bolt pattern. The steel wheels I showed earlier are FWD positive offset for wider Mustang rear width and adapter to widen front. You have lots of options to chose from, but you have to chose one.


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Thanks.. Trying to figure out my route before I commit to a rearend and start pulling the the little thumper apart! I did some looking around, you are right of course, the true Steel wheel Knock Offs are expensive but the stamped steel wheels are fairly cheap(hate the thought of a fake knock off, but oh well). I'll go get the MG rear end and plan on converting to the Sunbeam hub. That should prove easy enough and solve several of my problems. The problem is there is so much to be done to the car, I could really go in ANY direction. Thanks for the help. JohnS

John, just cut the splined part off after the taper. Use a 2000 Ford Contour SVT rear rotor. May have to turn the hub down a little for rotor to slip on. Use a 7/16" transfer punch to mark the new lug holes between the existing hub holes. Drill with 3/8" then 1/2". Contour studs are the same front and back, so get 16 for all four wheels. Pull them in with a lug nut and stack of washers.They are modern 12mm studs. Use whatever lug nuts your wheels need. Contour SVT front rotors are vented 10.95 slip on for front. Nissan V6 twin piston calipers for the late 80's and 90's Nissan V6 Pickup/Pathfinder 10.9 rotor are perfect for front calipers. You will have to make caliper mounting brackets from templates,posterboard then plywood then steel(if under 3/8") or T6 aluminum(if over 7/16"). I use adapter fittings 10mm to Speedway Motors 3AN SS braided flexline then to 3/8" IF. You need 1 for each caliper and 1 for above the rear axle. 7/8" master from 78-82 Dodge Challenger 4 wheel disk brake with VW remote reservoir and blue hoses.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 01:21AM by mgb260.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2014 02:04PM by mgb260.

I found a 1986 Mustang with what I believe to be a Summit Racing 4.10 Pos I was told it was a 9 inch but maybe an 8.8, looks like I can shorten it fairly easy. Also has 4 pretty nice wheels (4 Lug) which solves some more of my problems. Rear end is Coil Over and Drums. Question if you guys have time, is there a draw back to the 8.8?

This car has a 302W with 44,000 miles on it, set up for FI but I figure I will get a GT40 Manifold and put my 4 BRL Holley. I can get the whole enchilada for less than I will scrap the remainder of the car for, less my mileage and effort.




Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2014 06:47PM by nakedhacienda.

John, If it has 4.10, it is way low for the T5. Probably 2.9 to 3.2 if stock ring and pinion.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2014 07:03PM by mgb260.

That is an 8.8 not a 9"
Ford 9" differentials are drop out type without a rear cover.
I would pull the cover and check out what you have including gear ratio. If you have one hub held can you turn the other one?

I am not sure if it is, the owner says so, just not sure he knows, it had a T5 and a 302W.. Curious, I will check tommorow though.. I guess I could always put some other gearing in it, if it isn't appropriate, I still think this is a pretty good deal at $600 bucks. Thanks for all the input! I need it. At least I am headed in one direction now.

Looks like Jim Nichols is right.

T5/T45 (manual transmission)3.55/ 2000 RPM’s 3.73/2250 RPM’s or 4.10/2350 RPM’s for 65MPH..

John, That's with .68 fifth gear. multiply first 3.35 x rear ratio. Ideally should be 11 to 12. I looked up the 86 8.8 and stock ratio's were 3.08,3.27 and 3.55 with the T5. If the guy said it was a 9", I highly doubt he put a 4.10 in. That rear has the Alpine pattern already. You could use a spacer in front and the FWD offset steel wheels without narrowing. Maybe roll the fender lip or use flares. Ford Focus had 14" and 15" steel wheels with the Alpine 4 x 4.25 pattern.




Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2014 02:05PM by mgb260.

I bought the Donor car. The Seller said the guy that owned the car claimed a 4.10 BUT his father ( the guy that put it in) said no it wasn't a 4.10, but a 3.73 with PosiTraction. I got a fairly decent looking 5.0 Ltr with EFI with the deal and I will pull the EFI off (sell) and go with my 4 BRL Holley I got with the Sunbeam. I also started cutting the Transmisssion Tunnel out, since my little Frankenstein has a scary looking tunnel.. I'm pulling everything else that is worth selling or using and will either take to the scrap yard or just sell as scrap metal.
The rear end isn't coil over, but is coil spring, so I'm thinking converting to coil over. thoughts??

Thanks for the info!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2014 07:54PM by nakedhacienda.

John, Here you go :

[www.welderseries.com]

[www.welderseries.com]



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2014 10:03PM by mgb260.

Ok, that is cool! The present undercarraige looks similar.... I'm wondering if those arms will just replace the FORD linkages? What do you guys think? Would you shorten the rear end or buy the wheels that Jim Nichols showed? I have some really decent looking wheels, and I do plan on putting wheel well flares. Thoughts...

Thanks!

JohnS



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2014 10:36PM by nakedhacienda.

John, the control arms are longer than stock Mustang to be universal and trim to fit. Most triangular 4 bar setups use the front spring bracket for the front lower mount. You still need to do the MGB rack and pinion and do the Tiger firewall to set motor back. Then the shifter will be too far back with the Mustang tailhousing. Use a S-10 tailhousing. I'm going to use a universal (Speedway Motors) tubular mount (picture is on Buick motor)for the engine to bolt to the old Alpine frame steering mount locations and copy the Tiger transmission mount. Speedway motors also have reasonably priced small diameter drivelines in multiple lengths. To determine length slide front yoke all the way in and pull out 1". Measure Ujoint to Ujoint for length needed. The stock Alpine/Tiger rear axle width is 51",almost identical to MGB wire wheel width. Your Mustang axle is around 60" wide (wider than the early 8" which is 56") so needs to be narrowed. The Alpine rear is a little too narrow stock as there is clearance issues with frame and spring. If I was you I would call Moser and order axles 26" long for 53" width wheel to wheel mounting. Are your mags factory or aftermarket?


Link to 4 bar instructions
[dl.dropbox.com]







Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 06/23/2014 05:40PM by mgb260.

Here they are, 1985 Mustang (FoxBody) wheels, they're ok.. If I can find something else better I will...

John, those wheels look good. Even better without the Ford hubcaps.

I will HAVE to find some center caps without the FORD! Either that or use the Wheels you suggested. I should have the rear end out this weekend, the steering gear will not work from the Mustang? I will start looking around for a MG Steering gear

Kevin, sorry, not sure about turning the wheels, I haven't had it up on the Jack. You are correct of course, it is an 8.8 not a 9 inch. I should have it off this weekend, I will give it a try, it's supposedly a PosiTrac, we'll see...

Coil overs, I spoke with a HOT ROD Shop. He says $500 TO Narrow my rearend.. He said I should have bought a Ranger Rear end.. Oh well. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone knew the length of Coil overs I should get? Should I measure from the AXLE UP? Is that how you figure their length ? I guess it sounds like a stupid question.

Thanks in advance for the direction.


JohnS

Got the Mustang rearend out, I am told that none of the mounting brackets will work with the Sunbeam and I should have bought a Ford Ranger rearend (oh well at least I got a PosiTrac, an Engine, and 4 Wheels for my $600 bucks) perhaps I haven't wasted too much time and money. I have found an MGA steering gear on EBAY and will check to see if it's equivalent to the MGB. Here are some new Pics of the Car, Notice the steering gear, kinda scary but it worked, I think the R&P will be a big improvement. I also cut out the Transmission tunnel from the Mustang, perhaps it will save a little sheet metal work, but maybe not. We'll see.
I will take the remainder of the car to the scrape yard, it's a shame the steernig gear will not fit.