rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
More wire routing thoughts
I need to run a hot lead from my battery up to the remote battery posts I put up by the slam panel. Am thinking of putting conduit through the outter sill like Ted did on Dan's car. Are there vertical pieces in there that'd get in the way?
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danmas Dan Masters Alcoa, Tennessee (578 posts) Registered: 10/28/2007 12:11AM Main British Car: 1974 MGBGT Ford 302 |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
Yes. There is a brace just over the jacking point. We were able to run the conduit because we were also replacing the outer sill, making access to the brace possible. If you look closely, you can see the spot welds for that brace.
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ex-tyke Graham Creswick Chatham, Ontario, Canada (1165 posts) Registered: 10/25/2007 11:17AM Main British Car: 1976 MGB Ford 302 |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
Hidden wiring can be aesthetically pleasing but I often wonder about accessibility if there is a problem.
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BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6470 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
If you run hidden wiring it's a good idea to do it in such a way that it can be pulled back out for inspection/repairs and reinstalled. That can be done, but it generally means using a much larger size conduit than you had visualized, using the smallest possible wire ends, and eliminating branching, wire-ties and wrapping, similar to good industrial electrical conduit practice. Once you are there, you have to wonder if pvc conduit might not be a better choice. And then, what about optional conductor types? Bare buss bar for instance. Welding cable. Other materials and methods? Waterproofing? Junction blocks for the wires that go through the conduit? Suddenly you are re-engineering the entire electrical system. That's not a bad thing, I'm just pointing out where one seemingly small change can lead. Everything you add brings more bulk, weight, cost and complexity with it. If that fits within your vision for the car it's all good. If it isn't a clean fit, reconsider.
The stock arrangement isn't bad. The original cable can be replaced with a much heavier one. A high torque starter lightens the load. An additional cable can bring the power from the starter to a remote terminal point, or more than one, relocating the power feeds for the rest of the system. Running the harness under the carpet is another option that is easy to do, unobtrusive, keeps it clean and accessible, and out of sight. But you wouldn't think you'd want the main power cable there. Modern practice seems to be to use all reasonable methods to keep oxygen away from the conductors, connectors, terminations and such. Many times this is not practical but where it can be done it will make the wiring much more reliable. Even the fuses and relays could benefit from it. Eventually we will see gas sealed components used in cars almost exclusively but we're still a long ways from that. There is a lot we can do though. Substitute modern connectors for the old bullet connectors, use wire with cross linked insulation, etc. There's no reason why a new wiring installation shouldn't last 50 years or more. Jim |
ex-tyke Graham Creswick Chatham, Ontario, Canada (1165 posts) Registered: 10/25/2007 11:17AM Main British Car: 1976 MGB Ford 302 |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
Quote:
[Modern practice seems to be to use all reasonable methods to keep oxygen away from the conductors, connectors, terminations and such] ......exactly the reason that, a few years ago, I started to use dielectric grease on all my connections. |
rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
Points taken on being able to pull the wire back out to inspect.
I looked at my car & it appears the brace for the jacking point is in the inner sill, not the outer. This pic seems to confirm. Anyone done a sill replacement recently enough to remember for sure? If that pic is right, running a conduit through the outer does seem to cover both bases but it'd be a lot of work & might be more than I need to do. I hadn't throught about routing from the starter up to the remote posts, I'll have to look at that to see where the wire would end up vs. where my exhaust runs. |
mgbazza Barrie Egerton Sydney Australia (24 posts) Registered: 01/20/2009 07:40AM Main British Car: 1978 MGB GT Rover 3.5 |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
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BMC Brian Mc Cullough Forest Lake, Minnesota, USA (383 posts) Registered: 10/30/2007 02:27AM Main British Car: 1980 MGB '95 3.4L 'L32' SFI V6, GM V6T5 & 3.42 Limi |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
I'm coming in late on this one but WOW! Either I am Channelling Jim B or he is channeling me.
I would like to add that my 1/2" conduit is very tight and I am considering a larger type in the next project. This is up in the wheel wells, not in the rear. Finally, we use a junction block with a 100 amp fuse in it. You can find a number of pictures of this on our website in the passengers footwell. -BMC. |
rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
I hadn't come back to this in a while... good input. After thinking about the wiring that runs from the fuse panel (which will be in the cockpit somewhere near the firewall) to the back of the car, I decided there's not enough wire running to the back to warrant the conduit thru the rocker. I shaved the side markers & back-up lights so only really have 5 things back there (trunk light, tail lights, turn signals & license plate lights).
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Bill Young Bill Young Kansas City, MO (1337 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 09:23AM Main British Car: '73 MG Midget V6 , '59 MGA I6 2.8 GM, 4.0 Jeep |
Re: More wire routing thoughts
Rob, fuel pump, fuel gauge sending unit? Two more on most cars from the front to rear.
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