MG Sports Cars

Kevin,

Who did you get the engine from?

If you didnt buy the ECU with the engine it may be cheaper and simpler to use a Megasquirt instead. then you can just use a SD1 flywheel which is a lot lighter.

The gems ECU id not particularly good in it's standard tune and it needs two chips to modify it at around £800.00!

The RV8 bonnet is obviously intended for the Hotwire system so will work with a change of plenum, I don't know for certain, but I would be surprised that even with machining to the trumpet base that the square shape plenum will fit under the RV8 bulge.

Kevin Jackson.

Kevin,

Some good news I think, did some further checking re the front cover dimensions and it appears that the new more compact 4.0 cover and the pulley has a dimension of 155mm. in comparison to the factory MGBV8 set up of 130mm. so only 25mm/1" difference and it also looks as if the later water pump does not project as far forward as the P6 one which has a large boss forward of the pulley so more room between the water pump and radiator.

Kevin Jackson.

Kevin,

Got the engine from eBay, hoping it comes this Thursday,hope its not a complete dog.
I have looked at the chips from RPI and yes they are dear, I think the main thing will be to get it up and running to start with and see what it is like. I am not after a rocket so 180-200BHP is plenty for the moment.

I have not looked at the megasquirt item’s, I think I am going to have my hands full with an EFI system as it is. Does any body have a wiring diagram for the GEMS system, been looking into this but have not yet found anything yet on the net. This is the problem when you do not remove the engine yourself and it comes with lots of wires!

That’s a shame about the bonnet! Its more a cosmetic thing so may have to change the plenum, are they interchangeable with the hot wire unit?

Just purchased a second hand flywheel so will see what this will turns out like.

Thanks again for the help.

Kevin,

If your going to use the complete Gems system and haven't got the ECU then you will need to source the ECU and engine loom and it's basically plug and play apart from a few earths and a live feed, you will need an EFI fuel pump and swirl pot and a return fuel line of course.

Hopefully the engine will come with all the sensors in place.

A good source of parts not far from you is Alan Coote at Range Rover Heaven 01249 890511 or Mob. 07711 369785

Kevin J

Kevin,

The engine will come with the loom but as I have had a dispute (don’t ask) with his holding off on getting the ECU off him for the moment. The problem I may have is there are bound to be some loose wires that when to the pump, fuse ect. I am trying to get hold of a wiring diagram so I can check this. May start a new thread for this.

I have been speaking to an MGOC member he has used a remote swirl pot in the battery compartment with pumps and a rubber bumper fuel sender which can be used as the return fuel feed which I thought was a good idea as this saves welding the tank.

Will attach some pics of the engine ect over the weekend,

Good to know that you have a good part source, will keep this in mind.

Kevin,
Engine arrived, I have taken some measurements and from the engine block to the water pump pulley this is 150mm long. From the center of the crankshaft pulley bolt to the out side edge of the oil filter the measurement is 210mm wide. Do you think it will fit???


Just started stripping the engine and they have used lots of white silicone which is not a good sign. The clank turns over so will be looking at getting the heads off next week to look at the pistons ect. (No torx sockets at the moment!!) Will then look at getting the parts cleaned and the block pressure tested. Keeping my fingers and toes crossed it will be ok.

Kevin,

Did the engine come with the brackets and idler pulley for the serpentine belt system?

Measurement wise it sounds like you won't have a clearance problem with the crank pulley with the engine in factory or near factory postion.

I do still have doubts that the oil filter although in the straight and not cranked forward position will work, but that will become evident in time and if necessary you can use the remote filter housing that bolts on the inner wing.

Good luck with the strip down and check for any liners that may have sunk in the bores, cylinders 6 & 8 are the most common, and any pistons and combustion chambers that appear to have been steam cleaned. If there is no sign of this you should be ok but still good idea to have the block pressure tested if you have someone who can do this for you.

PS On a positive note, I have a friend with a 4.6 engine which is fairly standard except for a set of forged pistons. he just gave it a light rebuild.

With Nitrous Oxide the engine is pumping out around 450 BHP and has been very reliable for this whole season of drag racing.

Kevin Jackson.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/13/2009 11:31AM by castlesid.