MG Sports Cars

I know there is a lot of rust to deal with but after all its 37 years old; when I was 37 I was a starting to rust a little too. Now it's time to start preparing the engine bay for the 302 and I have a question. A friend has suggested it would look much cleaner if the lip on the upper inside frame rail (see arrow in picture) was removed and welded. Is there a structural reason it should not be removed? We have a complete fabrication and welding facility and know to do it in sections and not grind the entire lip off at one time. Still, is it Ok to do this.

You'll lose some structural strength in the process since you are removing about 20% of a vertical member along with an additional stiffener or doubler. It would be far better to box the top by adding a plate to it if you desire a smooth appearance. Just use the same gage sheet metal as used in the rest of the body.

Jim

I'm going off memory, but if i recall, the frame rail is made in sections... a u-chanel on top & bottom & plate on the sides (two layers at least in some areas)... with the side plate spot welded to the short verticles on the u-chanel... so, if you cut off the lip you're cutting the vertical plate off the top u-channel.

I'd go with either Jim's suggestion to box it in or, frankly, just leave it. Once you get the engine & ancilaries in there you'll hardly notice it.

Depending on where you put the motor, you may need to cut a slot in the u-channel & bend the veritcal plates over to make about 1/4" extra room on each side (I can send you pics of that on mine) so whatever you do, at least do a trial fit of the motor before you decide how to handle it.

Thanks guys, I was a little concerned about it and think you're correct, so I think I'll just leave it. The picture you offered would be a great help Rob if it's not too much trouble. As for engine position I'm assuming centered from side to side but the pictures I'v seen have been taken from an angle. Should the pan be almost touching the steering rack and the balancer right above it or should the steering rack fit between the balancer and lower pully?

Here's what I did... not necessary unless you're putting the motor lower & further back (clipping the corners of the firewall by the heater shelf to enable)...

Cut this part out...


Then bend the rail over & weld up the seam...


I did the same on both sides.

I did the same as Rob but only on the drivers side so as to get clearance for the remote oil filter adapter. I didn't bend over the rail though, I cut it so about an eighth of an inch was left, then welded it. Tools used - rotozip, sawsall, grinder, hammer. mig welder.

Steve

Thanks guys, that helps me to understand. I'm lucky enough to have a complete machine shop with MIG and TIG as well as a CNC table where I can cut out anything I can draw; we also have milling machines, a lathe, and can form sheetmetal. I'm not the best machinest in the world, and a worst bodyman, but what I can't do my friends here can. I'm really excited about putting life back into my GT, and in return maybe it will put a little life back into me. Thanks again for the pictures Rob.