MG Sports Cars

Hi all. As I follow along with the various posts on a nearly daily basis, my own MGBV8 has sat idle for a few years, but I'm ready to get my hands dirty again. But, I sorely need some advice.

I started with a '76 convertible into which I installed an engine/tranny combo out of a (1980, I think) TR8. I purchased the Rover drivetrain from a well known specialist from Massachusetts who shall remain unnamed.

Included with my purchase were motor mounts, block hugger headers, and a tranny cross member which had to be modified to fit, and eventually did. One of the bigger hurdles was getting the alternator mounted lower than the engine so that the package was relatively compact and somewhere near fitting under the unmodified hood.

The 3.5 motor came modified with what I'm told is a Buick intake manifold and an early sixties Rochester 4GC carb, identified over the phone by Mark of D&D (very helpful, by the way). Herein lies the problem, the carb top barely clears the hood, with absolutely NO room for an air filter, and I really don't want to modify the hood for clearance.

Mark at D and D suggests I revisit the engine mounts to see if the motor can be dropped, but the block hugger headers JUST clears the sheet metal buldge in the engine bay. I don't see any way that the situation can be improved, considering he tells me that this is a low intake and carb combo.

I am certain that many of you have been faced with similar issues and was hoping for a guiding light, as it were.

Is there anything I can do other than possibly changing to different (through the fender) headers and modifying the motor mounts to get this motor to clear the hood?

Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

-Russell

Would you be able to shorten the headers to where they are pulled closer to the flange and gain an 1/8" per side or more that might allow a considerable drop in height.
Just a guess?
BTW a picture is worthy for the best ideas!!

I have a TD, but had a problem with the width of the engine. The headers drop outside the frame and are hand made from a set of old used ones. One good thing is the exhaust heat is outside the frame and not in the cockpit. I'm using a very small 50 AMP alternator from an atv on my own mounts. The point is, there is always a way, if you just stand back and take a look from a different angle. The Factory Five Cobra kit turns the Ford stock manifolds around and the exhaust exits in front of the engine into the side pipes. I do recomend the engine be as low as possible. Hope this helps.

Russell, I "think" the Offy , single plane 4bbl. manifold is lower. Edelbrock ? As a last resort, you could mount "sidedraft" carb, aimed towards firewall, similar to BL's MGB GT V8 build. Obviously, you don't want the sump of the pan, below the bottom of x-member,(disaster) ! Good Luck, roverman.

Thanks everyone for your responses.

Many here have utilized "drop base" air filters, presumably like the K&N ones at this link:
[www.knfilters.com]

I've never actually seen one of these in person. I assume even dropping the base there must be some height above the carb chokes to provide inlet air, thereby still raising the total engine height, right? Can anyone tell me how much these add to the top of the carb height? (My carb just clears the hood with no cleaner)

Thanks

Drop bases come with varying amounts of drop but you are right, you can't drop it below the chokes. With a drop base that gets air cleaner cover as low as you can get it & still clear the chokes, you probably need about 3/4-1" more to have a gap for air to get in & for the cover, nut, etc. If you're using a 3" filter element now, you can switch to 2"; that'll help. And, I've even heard of people modifying the chokes to gain another 1/4" or so -- you don't get full choke that way. The folks I know who've done that live in moderate climates; don't know if that'd work if it gets really cold where you are.

Not sure of the exact amount of clearance between the carb and your hood (carb top barely clears the hood), but would a remote filter work? Likely would have to be a custom build.

I'm with Mark, revisit the engine mounts. The closer the engine to the firewall, the more hood clearance for the air cleaner. I can barely get my index finger between the passenger head & the firewall. Glen Towery pioneered the "A/C mounts" that sets the engine farther back. Makes all the difference.

The stock Buick/Olds intake manifold and an Edelbrock/Carter carb has been regarded for years as THE low profile combo. Not measured a Rochester carb myself, though.

The block hugger headers will be very close. I can get a couple of sheets of paper between my headers & the fender wells. ;)

Glen Towery has suggested that the carb mounting base on the manifold can be angle milled to tilt the air filter forward to provide more hood clearance.

I did this on my Ford 302. I also removed the choke plate entirely (on my Demon carb) to allow the air cleaner to sit lower. I left the electric choke in place to provide a cold fast idle and this works fine, I have driven the car in zero degree weather with this set up after a 30 second warm up. Starting is easy, just pump the gas once, and crank without touching the accelerator. The nearly closed throttle acts just like a choke for starting purposes.

A question to explore a different direction....

I'm quite familiar with the 60 degree GM V6 installations, and some have similar issues. The TBI setup doesnt fit easily, the 2.8 and 3.1 efi setups just barely fit, once one mounts the throttle body inverted. Also, the air plenums are usually milled to give a llittle extra room. However, the 3.4 V6 air plenum is about 1 1/2 inches low and fits like a dream.
Is there a simple fuel injection setup for this motor? They can be much lower ( and the engine runs better, gives lower emissions, better gas mileage, etc) and avoid all these 'challenges'.