MG Sports Cars

I wanted to run something by you all. I have found a 1992 Mustang that had some front end damage a few years back and it has been sitting under a shed since. I was told that they filled the cylinders with diesel to preserve but I am not sure on that one. I plan on running the engine/trans/rear end in my 72 B and utilizing the FI setup. What all do you know of that wouldn’t work in the B (i.e starter, alternator, bell housing, trans….)? The reason that I ask is that I can buy the entire car for $600 and probably make some change back parting it out but if I would still need to buy different parts then I may buy an engine/trans that is already out of a car and do the rear end later. I am assuming the car has a T5 and 8.8 in it. Ideas Thoughts?

On a side note I see some people running a biscuit mount and some running what reminds me of a plate setup bolted from the heads to the rails. I like the idea of the plate out of simplicity but is the only downfall to it over a biscuit an added vibration? I have worked with plates before but only on high HP cars so I don’t have a comparison for a street car. Cheers!

I bought a '94 mustang as my donor and it has worked out okay. The FI on a '92 is taller than a '94, so you'll need a pretty significant bulge to get it under the hood. Look at Kelly Stevensons car in the gallery to see what I mean. On the upside the taller intake makes more power, and if you make room for the stock intake you can upgrade later to all kinds of aftermarket FI intakes if that strikes your fancy. I'm going to be stuck with my lower intake unless I want to make changes to the hood.

I doubt if any of the front accessories will fit, including the water pump. There are custom options, or you can go with the explorer system (probably the best) or the '94-'95 mustang. The '94-'95 mustang mounts the alternator pretty high, not a problem in my case b/c I'm using an mgc hood, but just be aware it won't fit under a stock 'b hood. The stock starter on my engine will work fine, don't know if the '92 is the same. I'm using the 8.8 after having it narrowed, stock rear discs. I also used the mustang fuel pump by mounting it in a new 'b tank. I'm using the stock wiring harness, I'm waiting to get this finalized but it doesn't seem that it will be too bad to take it apart, remove the unnescesary wires and re-wrap it. The bellhousing and trans will work fine, I still have the heater shelf in my car and the shifter is only about an inch from being centered in the stock hole.

Not a bad deal if you have some confidence the motor and trans are good. But keep in mind the big items (engine, trans, rear end) are just scratching the surface. It's all the little things that will nickel and dime you to death. Fuel lines, headers, oil filter adapter, radiator, hoses, driveshaft, hardware, etc. etc. Again, look at Kelly's how it was done article, his car would kind of be the blueprint for what you want to do.

I'm mainly looking for major holes in my theory since I am not 100% familiar with which years of stangs came with what. I plan to transplant it exactly as it sits with all of it's wiring, stock ECU, etc.. I know I have a lot of work to do and I will need to build mounts and do something for headers but I am looking for guidance on whether most of the "stock" components will work or do I need to go ahead and start finding parts. Anyone know what sump is in it? Once it is in and running then comes the fun stuff...

mgbreis,

Thank you for your reply. I was informed the manifold was taller so it may end up with a bump but I don't mind cutting this thing up a bit to get it to fit as low as possible so who knows. If I can get it to fit then great but if not she will probably get a tasteful body mod. At this point I am trying to gather everything I will need to fit it so once I get the engine out I can bolt on whatever needs to be changed and start fitting it in there. Can you think of anything that you ran into that you had to buy for fitment? I am ready to get started so I want to be ready when I get the chance. I fully agree that this is the tip of the iceburg. This will be a long/expensive project so I am trying to be patient and do it right while also getting a good deal.

The key to motor placement is the steering rack. I'm kind of assuming you're using the stock front suspension, but if you're using a fast cars ifs obviously this doesn't apply. I didn't want to move my rack because I didn't want to end up with bumpsteer. So, my motor is as low as it can go, and the '94 intake clears a stock 'b hood by about an 1/4". So, with a taller efi intake there's definitely a bulge in your future. Nothing wrong with that!

For fitment, I think the keys are the intake and the front accessories. You'll also have to account for the oil filter location on the side of the block. It will interfere with the driver side frame rail.

Ryan, I've always been a Ford guy but for the last five years I've been building Chevy powered T-Buckets per clients request. This had me a bit spoiled as 350's and accessories haven't changed much since 1955 but Ford is a different situation. Do your homework and make sure "what fits what" as you're doing and it should be a great experience. The better you plan, the less you'll have to send parts back or buy twice. I'm an engine builder, went with a block, and did mine from scratch. Not the best way money wise, but I enjoy doing it. I've been fabricating street rods for years but don't have near the answers I need to do my B-GT/302 conversion. This site has the greatest group of guys, and maybe a few ladies too; don't hesitate to post questions, it has been a tremendous help to me and I assure you if you ask a question I know the answer to I'll respond, if it's just an opinion I'll say that too. Good luck,


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