MG Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" and Costello V8s

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BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: April 26, 2008 09:02AM

We did some measurements for the IRS too and determined that the differential needed to be spaced down a couple inches from the body. I had bought some 1 x 2 tubing for a cross brace but the new measurement meant we needed (or could use) 2 x 3 tubing and I happen to have some on hand from another project so I cut a length to fit. This is a hefty piece of steel and will easily control torque from the differential. It also moves the pivot points for the LCA's just below the corners of the battery boxes, which is a quite significant design improvement.

Jim


Dan B
Dan Blackwood
South Charleston, WV
(1007 posts)

Registered:
11/06/2007 01:55PM

Main British Car:
1966 TR4A, 1980 TR7 Multiport EFI MegaSquirt on the TR4A. Lexus V8 pl

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: Dan B
Date: April 26, 2008 07:36PM

Hey that front suspension looks pretty sweet. All these great components....

BMH should look at this thing and donate a new body shell.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: April 26, 2008 11:17PM

Yeah, Arthur really set us up good with that. I'll get the steering rack put on in a few days and check on getting some used tires for the front. Rob and Carl, what size of commonly available 15" tires do you think I can find to use for this summer's show?

Today we picked up parts and began engine assembly. The short block is assembled and one head in place but a number of details remain. The cam has a chipped tooth on the front gear and it would be best if we can find a new one for it. We bought engine paint, lug nuts, and another head gasket, I guess Steve will give a treasurer's report as soon as he can. We also took accurate measurements and worked out more of the details on the IRS.

It seems like suddenly we are a lot closer. For the show we only need to get the rear done, install the engine and tranny, and stick the doors and fenders back on. While it is true that we only have two Roadmaster weekends between now and the summer show, I see no real problems in our way.

MVC-495S.JPG

Jim


rficalora
Rob Ficalora
Willis, TX
(2764 posts)

Registered:
10/24/2007 02:46PM

Main British Car:
'76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: rficalora
Date: April 27, 2008 12:54AM

Jim, 225/50/15 for the rear & either 205/55/15 or 215/50/15 up front is what I'd suggest... but since they're just temporary, the best sizes are probably what you can find at the local salvage yard. Also, if you're going to use larger diameter tires in the end, be sure to allow for that when putting the flares on.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: April 27, 2008 04:35PM

What we'll do is fit the rear up with my wheels and tires for the roadster (315/35-17) which will give us an extra 3/4" on each side when we go to the 275's on the back as we;d discussed earlier, my wheels/tires being on loan for the show. The for the front we just need something to fit Steve's 15" Jag rims, again just for the show. I was wondering what would be the most commonly available sizes that might compliment the rears, which I could find used. Should I be looking for 50 series or something else entirely?

The second head is now on the engine, as well as the rocker arms:
MVC-497S.JPG

And the engine is bagged while waiting for tin and an intake to be cleaned:
MVC-498S.JPG

Also the steering rack is mounted:
MVC-501S.JPG

And some more layout is done on the IRS, more details in the 340 thread:
MVC-496S.JPG

Jim


74ls1tr6
Calvin Grannis
Elk Grove,CA
(1151 posts)

Registered:
11/10/2007 10:05AM

Main British Car:
74 TR6 / 71 MGB GT TR6/Ls1 71 MGB GT/Ls1

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: 74ls1tr6
Date: April 30, 2008 10:47AM

Jim,

If you need a stiffer set of springs in the roadmaster up front for the engine weight, I will donate the TR6 comp springs that are not cut on one end, I will probably never use them and I'm sure they are strong enough for the application.

Picture 270.jpg

The red pair on the left are the competition springs.

When the time comes of need just let me know and their yours for the project.


Calvin


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: April 30, 2008 09:47PM

Thanks Calvin, we'll know more as we get closer to the summer meet. We have a set of stock TR springs that might do the trick, or yours may work better, but hopefully we will still be getting the aluminum heads. I very much appreciate you giving us that option.

Today I picked up some 1/4 x 1" steel strap and some 4140 heat treated 5/8" round bar to use in making the mounts and long bolts for the LCA attachments. Steve, I have the receipt for that, $48.11 to Fastenal using check number 1026. I will have to buy some 1-1/4 ID tubing for the axle shafts and I'm trying to find some bonded rubber bushings. Hopefully by the first of the week I will have the final axle position set and can start measuring for the axle and LCA cuts. I'm going to try to have that work about done by the end of the month so that we can concentrate on prepping the car for show-n-tell.

By the way, does anybody have an objection to moving Roadmaster Weekend to the 31st/1st rather than Memorial Day weekend?

Jim



rficalora
Rob Ficalora
Willis, TX
(2764 posts)

Registered:
10/24/2007 02:46PM

Main British Car:
'76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: rficalora
Date: May 01, 2008 06:14PM

Hey Jim, have you looked at the inner wheel wells any more? I noticed when I started messing with my flares the other day that the inner fenders appear to tie into the end of the rockers. That made me wonder if I really want to do it the way I mentioned I was planning to a few weeks ago. It was getting dark so I didn't spend much time looking at it to decide. When i get a chance I'll let you know if it looks like there's a better answer. That'll likely be next week sometime (cub scout camping trip this weekend) so If you get to this first, let me know what you think.

Rob


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(2465 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 01, 2008 08:58PM

Jim, don't forget to allow for pinion offset.
mgbv8-21.jpg


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 02, 2008 05:40PM

Jim N, thanks for the tip and I will certainly keep that in mind. Looks like 1-1/8" offset I believe. How do you like that setup? Looks like quite a few miles on it and I see there are no rub lines on the driveshaft. I'm guessing your radius rods attach at the cross braces? I'm trying to decide how far I can move the axle to the rear and get away with it, but inclined to think much more than 1/4" will be noticeable. Looks like either the battery boxes will need some trimming or perhaps an aftermarket caliper that is more compact could be found. Time to call Bill G I guess.

Rob, I'd have to look at it again but I think you are right about that. On our car the rockers are pretty well eaten away so we have to do a sill and rocker replacement anyway and right now we've removed most of the rust so there's really no good reference points right now to look at but I believe the inner fenderwells are sound. We have patch panels for the lower outer fender and I'm thinking those should go on before the flares do. I think you had mentioned that you wanted to extend your flares out another inch or so, but I'm wondering if you could use a wheel with less offset instead? Seems like getting that extra inch in sheet metal might be a little tricky. How wide do you plan to go on the tires?

I got the tin back from the shop:
MVC-509S.JPG

The rocker covers are pretty beat up:
MVC-510S.JPG

Some scarring by the crank:
MVC-511S.JPG

So I did what I could for them. Far from perfect but they'll serve to keep the dirt out. Hopefully we'll find something better and not have to use these. The pan should be fine though.
MVC-512S.JPG

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 03, 2008 09:09AM

I was lucky enough to get paint on the parts before it rained:

MVC-513S.JPG

MVC-514S.JPG

I think they came out fairly decent. The 430 pan (center sump) is pretty bashed in on the bottom, I haven't done anything with it yet. It and the valve covers make me wonder just what they did to that engine. Let the dog roll it around the shop floor, or what?

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 03, 2008 09:16AM

Also, I started a thread in the parts for sale forum to list the extra parts we can sell to raise cash. I'm doing my best to suggest prices but would welcome recommendations either way.

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 03, 2008 04:53PM

I took more measurements at the rear accurate within 1/64":

MVC-515S.JPG

Sorry about the blurry photo. What I found was that I was too far forward with the differential by 3/4". The proper position of the differential results in a clearance from the rotor to the gas tank of only about 3/4" but it maximizes the space to the front where the calipers are mounted. Very close quarters in there, but with a slightly modified caliper I do believe the MG engineers could have fit it in. There is not adequate clearance above the rotors for the parking brake unless the crossmember is notched about 3/4". (Odd how that fraction keeps popping up.) The front mount bolts will center 3/8" behind the forward edge of the crossmember, meaning that an access notch may be adequate on that side, along with a chunk of angle iron on the back side. Getting the calipers off still may require a notch in one battery box but we'll see.

So the question must be asked, " is the hub on the same centerline as the differential?" Ordinarily you would expect that it would be, but as Calvin experienced with his Datsun differential conversion to his TR6, sometimes it is expedient to have the differential centered slightly in front or behind the hubs. I sincerely hope that is not the case here but I may have some difficulty in actually measuring it before assembly of the rear suspension, and then it'll be a little late to change it.

The 4140 bar stock turned out .003" oversize which means a lot of polishing. I may see if I can get some TGP stock (turned, ground and polished) at the same time that I order tubing for the axle shafts. The tubing will have to be 1-3/16 ID x 1/4 wall so not the most common size.

The crank seals came in. I'll try to button up the bottom end in a few days when I get the intakes and the front covers back.

Jim


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(2465 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 03, 2008 10:39PM

The picture of the pinion offser is not my car,just a picture I found doing research on IRS. I actually have a Nissan R230 I picked up on Ebay. The offset to the pinion on it is 2.5".


danmas
Dan Masters
Alcoa, Tennessee
(578 posts)

Registered:
10/28/2007 12:11AM

Main British Car:
1974 MGBGT Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: danmas
Date: May 03, 2008 10:50PM

<>

It really doesn't matter as long as the hub centerlines are parallel to the diff centerline and concentric with each other. Being forward or behind is no different than being above or below, which they will be, and changing, as the car goes down the road bouncing over bumps.



BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 04, 2008 12:15AM

That is true Dan, but since we're using the jag LCA's where they locate the hub relative to the diff would be the relevant question I think, as moving the diff will move the hubs and if they aren't originally on the same centerline it'd be best to know about it before locating the diff. I guess I should try to measure it. That means mounting both LCA's and both uprights but maybe I can find time to try it tomorrow... oops, guess that's today now.

Jim


rficalora
Rob Ficalora
Willis, TX
(2764 posts)

Registered:
10/24/2007 02:46PM

Main British Car:
'76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: rficalora
Date: May 05, 2008 08:29AM

Wow, looks like you (you guys?) got a lot done this weekend. Jim, where are the calipers fouling -- with the body or against something else? Asking because on the IRS Todd made me the upper shock mounts ended up about 1/2" too high so I'm modifying the back shelf to add a little room (remember, my IRS was the prototype for his new design; he's since fixed that). It's a pretty easy change; I can post pics later today.


V6 Midget
Bill Young
Kansas City, MO
(1337 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 09:23AM

Main British Car:
'73 MG Midget V6 , '59 MGA I6 2.8 GM, 4.0 Jeep

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: V6 Midget
Date: May 05, 2008 12:32PM

Gentlemen, members of B.A.D.A.S.S. I have a proposal to make. I realize that our treasury is indeed small at this time, but I feel that we shoud try to do something to help Jim defray the cost of towing the project car up to Wisconsin at today's gas prices. I think we should designate $100 of the fund to be allocated to transportation costs. From the current state of the project we should have plenty of time to replentish this amount before the funds are needed for further parts.
The motion is made, is there a second?


Citron
Stephen DeGroat
Lugoff, SC
(367 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 09:43PM

Main British Car:
1970 MGBGT V6, 7004R, AC, matching trailer 3.1 liter

Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: Citron
Date: May 05, 2008 02:29PM

Bill,
Great Idea. I will Second that motion.

Steve


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6470 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: MGB Roadmaster
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 05, 2008 09:09PM

Todd, Evan, Ted and others like them deserve a lot more credit than they get I think, for developing and offering for sale, the kits and pieces that make our life easier. That's a big project to take on and from what I can tell he really did a fine job of it. It certainly makes it a lot easier for someone like me to just come in and make a few refinements. Those guys are the real pioneers. I really appreciate what they've done, and if this was a standard conversion rather than the low buck group project that it is, I'd definitely be looking at what they have to offer and planning my budget to include them.

But, being the low dollar group project that it is, here'a a couple shots of the crossmember, which still needs the end pieces.
MVC-517S.JPG

This one shows the notches pretty clearly.
MVC-516S.JPG

Still working on getting the isolators. That's been one of the little frustrations that have begun to accumulate, that and the dammed 4140 stock that was oval instead of round. It's at times like these when a vote of confidence like those above is a real boost, and I want you guys to know it's really appreciated.

But as much as I want to thank you for your good intentions I don't think I can accept it. We'd be going to the meet regardless of the Roadmaster, as president of BADASS I can deduct the expenses so really I'm in better shape on that than most of the rest of you are, but the biggest reason of all is that I don't feel like we can spare the money. I don't know exactly where we stand, but Steve and I spent more than our combined contribution, meaning we could easily be down a hundred or so in the treasury. I still need to buy tubing for the axles and some 5/8" TGP round stock as well as some tubing for spacers and the forward LCA brace. Add paint to that as well, and that's most likely a good bit over another hundred. Then there's the T-shirts. I'm assuming we will have to put up some front money on that deal and a couple hundred won't go too far. That doesn't leave anything for travel funds, in fact we may run short. So as much as I appreciate the motion and second, and more than anything else the vote of confidence, I'm afraid I'm going to have to lobby against this one. Y'all can outvote me if you want, but I don't think you ought to. Just my opinion though.

In the meantime the work moves on. I may or may not be able to work on the isolators tomorrow but I will if I get the chance. I found some cushions similar to what we're using for front engine mounts for the main ones going to the shock mount and I thought I had some for the hanger strap mounts but haven't heard from the guy. Anyway when the rain rolls in on Wednesday I'll have to start hanging drywall and won't have the energy for anything else while I'm doing it. Then the 12th and 13th Dan B. will be in to work on his TR4 shock conversion. I may try to get some help with the drywall in exchange. Hopefully by then I'll have some of the supplies sorted out and can set up and cut the axles and LCA's.

We've moved the next Roadmaster Weekend to the 31st due to Memorial Day and we only have two work weekends left before the meet. I'm pretty sure I'll have the rear axle ready by the 31st. That means we can start putting fenders, doors and such back on and do whatever we are going to do with the flares, as well as dropping the engine and tranny in. I've accepted that for me at least it's going to be a no frills, cut to the chase, bare bones job of only what's needed to make it roll on and off the trailer. That's OK. If that's all we can do, we've still met our goal.

Jim
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