Citron Stephen DeGroat Lugoff, SC (367 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 09:43PM Main British Car: 1970 MGBGT V6, 7004R, AC, matching trailer 3.1 liter |
Re: Purchasing a 1967 MGB-GT - Need some advice!
Juan,
I am a GT fan. Check for rust in the floors and the sills. Actually all under the car. Rust is the money taker. Expect it to be hot in the summer months. Both of mine have AC. I live in SC, so summers are really hot. I probably would not use mine much in the summer if not for the AC. If it has little rust in it and you like it buy it. Good Luck Steve |
rficalora Rob Ficalora Willis, TX (2764 posts) Registered: 10/24/2007 02:46PM Main British Car: '76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302 |
Re: Purchasing a 1967 MGB-GT - Need some advice!
$3,800 would be a fair price for an above average driver IMO. From the pics, this may qualify. It definitely appears above average. That said, pics can be very deceiving. Let's face it, the newest MGB's are are close to 20 years old -- a '67 is 40 years old. Short of an absolute steal, I'd never buy a car sight unseen. Do your homework so you're not surprised...
I agree with Steve; look for signs of rust in the floor boards. Also, the "dog leg" areas which are the fender areas between the door & the rear fenders -- especially down in the bottom 6-8 inches. Also the same area between the front wheel arch & doors. And, finally, the rockers which is the curved piece below the doors. That's a structural component of the unibody. Those are the areas that tend to rust the most and while repairable, they will suck money from your account faster than an old boat [aka a hole in the water that you pour money into]. Even if there's no evidence of rust in those areas, take a magnnet with you & see if it sticks in those areas. If it does, you likely have good, solid metal. If it doesn't, you likely have a shotty bondo repair. Rust in those areas is repairable but like Steve says, those repairs will suck money fast. You might also check the trunk bottom for rust. Next get better info on compression. You want the compression in PSI (pounds per square inch) for each cylinder & they should be within 10% of each other. Significant variances indicate an engine or cylinder head problem. Again, repairable, but takes value away from the car as it's money you'll need to spend on parts, machine shop fees, or a repair shop. Compression checkers are not expensive. It's just a gauge with a hose you screw into the spark plug hole, tap the starter to run that cylinder to it's compression cycle & read the gauge -- maybe 2-3 times to ensure you have good readings. Do the same on each cylinder. Oh, and disconnect the coil lead so the car doesn't try to start while you're checking the compression. While you're in the engine bay, check the carburators. There's a black plastic screw cap on top of each carb. Unscrew it & lift it out... it should come out easily & have some reasonably clean light weight oil on it. If it is dry or the oil is very dirty, it's a sign the car has not been properly maintained. Similarly, the hydraulics. Fluid in the brake & clutch master cylinders should be reasonably clean (translucent tan to very light brown color). Very dark fluid indicates it hasn't been changed regularly & since brake fluid absorbs moisture that can often lead to corrosion in the master cyliders, slave cylinders, &/or brake cylinders. Also check the rear brake & clutch slave cylinders. Rear brake cylinders are on the back side of the rear wheels & have rubber boots on each end. The clutch slave is bolted to the transmission & connects with the clutch fork. It has a rubber boot on the end closes to the fork. If the brake or clutch slave cylinders are leaking it's a sign that the cylinders need to be rebuilt. After that, look at the wiring. Does it appear greasy? Connections tight or loose? Visible splices or unconnected wires? Wiring is not hard to fix, but if it hasn't been maintained or has a bunch of splices will plague you till you get it right. Running joke is "Why do the British dring warm beer?... answer... Because Lucas [the British electronics company] makes refridgerators." Another nick-name for Lucas is the "Prince of Darkness." In reality its not bad, but MGB's are 30 years & many have sorted histories so you may need to plan to tighten connections, clean corrosion, use some dielectric grease, etc. Better to spend a few hours one day doing that than be stranded on the side of the road. Lastly, this car appears to have wire knock-off wheels (a desirable feature in early cars IMO). If properly maintained, there'll be grease on the hub splines & the wheels will come off easily (the knock off ears will need a brass or similar hammer to "knock" off without damaging, but once loosened, should come off easily & wheels should slip off easily. Check at least a couple of them. If the hubs are dry, rusty, or frozen to the wheels it's another sign the car wasn't properly maintained. Those checks should give you a really good feel for the condition of the car. I'm sure if you do some checks & then ask questions hear for things you see that you're not sure about folks will chime in to answer fairly quickly. Good luck, Rob |
jimbb88 Jim Stuart Maryland, USA (47 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 07:43PM Main British Car: 1966 MGB V8 conversion Rover 4.0 fuel injected |
Re: Purchasing a 1967 MGB-GT - Need some advice!
I live in Maryland, just outside of D.C., and spend most of the weekend in Springfield/Newington if I can be of any help. I woulde be glad to look at the GT with you.
Jim Stuart |
Re: Purchasing a 1967 MGB-GT - Need some advice!
Thanks for all your help guys! I'm taking all your considerations before I really decide on what I'm looking to buy. I'm in a precarious situation where I need a nice daily driver for volunteer campaign work and would like a nice sports car as well to just take out from time to time :)
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