MG Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" and Costello V8s

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DC Townsend
David Townsend
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(406 posts)

Registered:
11/21/2007 12:22PM

Main British Car:
'78 B (almost done) 30-over SBF, dry sump

authors avatar
Late model steel dash
Posted by: DC Townsend
Date: September 18, 2010 06:22PM

I've had a few requests for some detail update on my '78 dash conversion into an early style steel dash. The original post is here: [forum.britishv8.org], the follow up post is here: [forum.britishv8.org]

The basic concept was simple, take my existing dash and turn it into a steel version. A few have asked,"Why bother?" Simply put, I liked the late model instrument organization and the location of the dash vents. Converting this presented some challenges because I wanted to move the heater controls to the dash from the console and the I couldn't use the existing glove box door so I needed to fabricate a new one. Lastly, once I removed the covering, the foam, and the steel supports used to support the original dash contour, I discovered some of the corners had deteriorated from rust. It wasn't a huge deal as I had to fabricate some new steel because of my aftermarket steering column, just unexpected. The rest of the stuff you can pick up from the above threads. Now, on to the details as requested.

Here's the view from the driver's side.

dash_left2.jpg

Gauges are SunPro Sport ST. It was mostly a '60's thing because of the popularity of SunPro but I also liked the look and they represented a good value (about $150 for the four gauges). I kept the original warning lamps. No reason in particular, just thought it made sense. The rockers to the right of the instrument cluster are all the wiper and heater fan stuff. The heater/defroster controls were from the original car but have been modified to fit in the dash. This meant drilling out the rivet that holds the gear and cable arm together, then re-clocking them so they would clear the sub-structure behind the dash face. Vents had to be shortened to fit the reduced depth then the vent hoses had to be trimmed to clear the vent doors. Switch under the mirror mount is for my washers. Mirror location and mount is another '60's race car kind of thing. Same thing on the use of rivets to attach stuff. Here's another shot.

dash_detail_left.jpg

I re-used the original headlight switch, moving it from the column location. Switch underneath the lights is my fog/driving lamp switch. So, to my mind, the switches are grouped logically - lights together, wiper/washer functions in one place, etc. This also gives you a good look at the dash 'eyebrow'. I've had a few flat dashes before and instrument glare at night (reflection in the windshield) is a real problem. The 'eyebrow' shades things just enough. Bending it was fun as it's a compound curve and I bend everything by hand - over simple bucks, forming steel, and hammers. You also get a glimpse of the new center stack.

Console_detail.jpg

I wanted the new console to have the look of the original but, again, I wanted switch set-up that would suit me. Console was made in three pieces - two sides and a center - with the center section and it's 180º bends being the most challenging to form. Curved flange at the bottom took a little time but wasn't particularly difficult to from from the 16 gauge steel. Very forgiving stuff. The cut-off key doesn't require any explanation. The switch layout - from left to right - will be: radiator fan(s), fuel pump 1, fuel pump 2, and a blank. Radio slot will be filled with a stock radio delete panel for now. Slight glare you see in the image is a fresh coat of flat cleat that's not dry yet.

Lastly, there's the glove box door and right dash area. The door was quite challenge to bend as it is a fairly large piece and has several compound curves and remember, I'm working with basic hand tools and a vise. I don't have the hinges adjusted quite right so you can see a slight gap at the top/right. It will be gone once I get everything aligned properly. Hinges were cobbled together using some simple offset cabinet hinges. Limiting strap was made from a small length of 14 gauge wire and some electrical eyelet lugs that I stripped the insulation from. Lock and catch are stock MGB stuff albeit from different years. I'm thinking about adding the chrome strip found on early model dashes, but haven't made a firm decision yet. Map light and switch are both stock early model parts, although I opted for a light switch for no particular reason. Just liked the look.

glove_box_door.jpg

Hope this helps to clarify the details. If I left out anything or you just want some more on how I did it, ask away. Please though, no questions on why I did it. There's just no explaining some things and this is one of those things. But for those of you (and I know you;re out there) who wanted to know what was underneath all the foam and vinyl of a lat model dash, here's your answer. Lastly, I had a comment of the dash seeming to be a bit of a reach. I think it must be just the camera optics as everything is within easy finger reach when I'm strapped in.


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