MG Sports Cars

Hi guys,

I took the MG out for it's first ride yesterday. The remote oil base that is attached to the engine got a crack about 3/4 inch back
from the hose, going up to the filter. I had to tow the car home. I have always had trouble with this set up. Last year part of the frame cut into the hose and I replaced it. The new hose was a little longer and I guess it put pressure on the mount so after I hit
a deep hole it started to smoke on the passenger side. I pulled over and saw where it was leaking. I have a 3.9 Rover with the same motor mounts as the factory MGBGT had. The remote filter came from the same place as the engine mounts, Clive Wheatly. Curtis stated somewhere that he uses the Buick angle filter mount,but it wouldn't work on factory cars. Is that because of the motor mounts and where it locates the engine? I would like to use that set up or D&D swivel mount.

I need to know what cars to get the angle, or the straight mount off of. Also can this all be done with the engine in the car, which I believe to be true. Is that where the oil pump gears are and are they going to fall out when I take off the remote cover? I have said it before, I am a carpenter not a mechanic. I need all the help I can get. To some of you guys this is so simple, but to me it isn't. I do not want to go back to the remote filter, and if I do, I do not want to use the Clive Wheatly one. Do I have to reprime the oil pump also?

I can do a lot of the work on my car, but the engine stuff I can't afford to mess it up. Thank you and I know your answers will benefit others, including me. Hopefully D&D has everything I need, could someone give me a thorough list of what I need.
I just want to thank everyone on this list who takes the time to help those like me that are not mechanically incline.

Denny

PM sent.

For adaptors I recommend the products from TransDapt [www.tdperformance.com] sold by a lot of different retailers. Check Speedway Automotives catalog as well for these. [www.speedwaymotors.com] I'd advise making the investment in some braided stainless hose and AN fittings. There are so many possibilities available as far as angle fittings etc that you're sure to find a combination that will give you the clearance you need so there's no excess stress on the adaptor and give the reliability you seek . Making the hoses up isn't difficult to do with some patience and careful work. Check out the Aeroquip catalog [hydraulics.eaton.com] or go down to your local hydraulic shop for advice and assistance. Usually the same AN fittings in aluminum are also available as JIC fittings in steel or brass for a lot less money, but if you're not sure then stick with the aluminum AN and stainless braided teflon hose.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/10/2008 12:07PM by V6 Midget.

As far as the BOP/R oil pump system, I guess it depends where the oil is leaking from. I am running the Buick "metric" base with a swiveling Mocal take off plate. I don't get any leakage from the joint between the timing cover and the pump base, plus I have a high volume oil pump kit in there, doubling the number of leak paths for that kind of joint. I do however get leakage from the swivel head due to a bad O ring design. I think I can rectify it by reworking the take off plate to create a gland seal rather than a face seal but that's neither here nor there. If you are getting leakage between the plate and pump housing, I would check both for flatness and/or inspect the gasket to see if that was the cause of the leak. One other thing, I have seen the pressure relief valve nut on this style come loose, maybe that could be it.
Good luck.

I put in the new swivel oil filter from D&D started right up with pressure,I went for a ride and at a red light the pressure dropped.
When I took off it went back up, I went home and changed the oil and it ran fine with good pressure.I went out wednesday and it ran fine,went out thursday and all was well,went to start it Friday and no oil pressure. I used the new filter I had here it's a PurolatorPure One. The one D&D sent is AC Delco. Tomorrow I will pull off the filter and see if it has oil in but I can't see why it wouldn't.
Although I checked the oil and it might of been to full, I didn't have my reading glasses on. Any ideas? I will also try the spinning the distributor when I feel like it. I have read a lot about no oil pressure on the first start of a new engine but not about my situation. Also the engine rattles for the first five seconds when I start up the engine.
I thought my problems were solved I have no leaks, the radiator hose fits tight but fits.I want to believe its something simple and not having to take the filter base off again.

Thank you for all your help.
Denny

Hello,

I just finished getting the car running. I pulled the distributor and stuck a pencil in # 1 cylinder which then broke off inside when I tried to set it at top dead center , but it must of burn up when I started the car. I got shocked really good once. I couldn't get the distributor back in the same place so I saw that I could twist it to the left about an inch and it ran like it use to. I now have a little valve noise but I hope the real car guys will tell me it's not that bad. I need to take it somewhere to get the distributor set right. I wish I had it all on video because it would have to be funny watching a guy who can take anything apart but putting it back together is another thing. I wish you could have seen my face when the pencil broke off, I thought it was the end of the world. There still might be a problem with that even though I tried to sucked it out with a vacume cleaner and blew it with air. You guys, comments would be appreciated. I truley amaze myself with my lack of knowledge, but that still doesn't hinder me. I once broke the cam bolt off of my 77 FLH. I work on my car because I have to. You guys really love what you do. Now I just hope that the oil pressure does not fail me again. Would anyone have a clue why it ran for three days than decided not to have pressure when I tried to start it that next day? I hope this gives you all a chuckle. I can't stand not having the MG running.
Thank you always for letting me vent.
Denny

Thanks for the chuckle Denny. There's a fair chance that crack sucked air and let the pump drain dry while it sat. If enough oil drained out it would have been sucking air on startup, which gear pumps aren't too good at, and may have taken a good long time to get any oil, if it ever did. You should be good on that.

A pencil would be one of the less damaging things you could lose in the cylinder. Almost guaranteed to be crushed and then pulverized on startup, the splinters should blow right on out and the graphite certainly isn't going to hurt anything. At the worst the valve might hang on a splinter until the valve spring got the best of it. That shouldn't take long at several hundred blows per minute and around 80lbs per blow.

Glad to hear you got it running. Since you lost oil pressure it may take it a little time for some of the lifters to pump up, but it should be OK after a short trip to the store. If not, you may have to either consider a heavier oil or live with the valve noise. These engines tend to be a little noisy anyway and a tapping lifter can be annoying, but usually not as annoying as swapping in a new cam and lifters.

Jim

Dennis,

Pretty sure that swivel oil adapter has to be rotated within a specific area for proper oil/pressure. D&D places a white mark that supposed to line-up with mark/indentation on pump. Check with D&D. Not sure if this picture helps any.