MG Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" and Costello V8s

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BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: August 14, 2016 02:22PM

Might as well attach the photos for the A/C plumbing as well:

IMG_0001.JPG

IMG_0002.JPG

IMG_0004.JPG

IMG_0005.JPG

That's complete as far as the cabin. Kept most of the cold run inside and most of the hot run outside. More efficient that way and less insulation required.

Jim


ex-tyke
Graham Creswick
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
(947 posts)

Registered:
10/25/2007 11:17AM

Main British Car:
1976 MGB Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: ex-tyke
Date: August 15, 2016 08:18AM

Noticed that all your (A/C, hydraulic and pneumatic) thin wall tube runs have really nice mandrel-type bends - what kind of tube bending equipment are you using?


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: August 15, 2016 10:17AM

Mainly an old KD hand bender that does 3/16 to 3/8". I mount it in the vise for most of the work, and I made an accessory for it to push the tube around the die. It's a handle made of 1/8" strap that attaches to the hub with a through-pin and has a UHMW pusher block with 4 grooves in it which fits tightly against the die and the tube. Put the tube in the bender, fit up the handle, insert the pin, then pull the tube around the die. I've found that with this nicopp tube it sometimes helps to pull on the tube (stretch) as it comes around to reduce wrinkling inside the bend. It's been so long since I made the handle that I've forgotten but I probably had to mount the bender spool in a lathe to drill the pin hole in the center. (with the handle flying around trying to smack me as I was drilling I'd suspect) I used that tool extensively when plumbing my small tractor for external hydraulics using 3/8" hard line and it did a good job on that too.

The main difference between that and most of the benders you see available is the pusher block, and that can be added to almost any cheap bender. All you really need is the formed die. Once you have that and a reasonable short end stop you just need something to push the tube around, and UHMW works great for that.

For the 1/2 aluminum I have a HF bender with a good die but I don't use the catch or the follower roller as they both damage the tube. Instead, with it clamped in the vise I hand pull the tube around the die. That's a little tricky to avoid a kink, and multiple bends close together would be difficult. If I was using it more I'd modify it with a formed block at each end. Those are easy to make by just drilling a hole through the UHMW and splitting it with a saw.

On the coils, I've used several things, and a soft surface is real helpful. I've got an old lathe spindle that I chuck the form up in and turn it by hand, guiding the tubing freehand. On some I've cut a slot in the end to start, otherwise rig some sort of a clamp. I've found rubber corks to be helpful as well as the butt end of an old cue stick for pushing things into place, also a prybar with a rubber strip taped over the end. That nicopp is very easy to dent, but with patience it does make an attractive job. The 1/8" stainless was actually some of the easiest to work with as it isn't prone to kinking or denting and I was able to use a small diameter wooden form. (dowell rod)

Maybe the best hint I can think of though, is to be very patient when straightening out the coil of tubing before starting, as the straighter it is to start with the nicer the job ends up being. That, and don't be afraid to bend your newly formed tube to get it to go in place. You can usually bend it back. Also measure carefully and precisely. Your bending die is your best friend here as you can easily eyeball the radius center as well as the inside and outside of the tube at the end of the bend, and if you measure to the end of the bend and set your tube in the die that way, that's how it comes out. You can also just eyeball a mark on your tube. I like to use 90 degree bends whenever it can be reasonably done because it makes the measuring a lot easier and you don't have to mess with an angle gage.

Jim


MGBV8
Carl Floyd
Kingsport, TN
(3105 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 11:32PM

Main British Car:
79 MGB, Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: MGBV8
Date: August 15, 2016 10:25AM

I have a piece of wheelbarrow handle (round to square) that come in handy. ;)


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: January 11, 2017 03:24PM

Still plugging away on the software to run the transmission controller. I'm not a programmer but I'm trying to learn what I need to adapt it to the 8 speed. Currently studying port and pin assignment and configuration for the Motorola HSC12 microcontroller family, specifically port "T" and pins PT5, 6, 7 and PT0. I'm trying to learn how to command the Data Direction Register DDRT so that it sees PT6 and PT0 as inputs and the rest of the 8 pins as outputs.

If I can get past that there is more to do, but that is presently the most important thing.

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: February 19, 2017 11:37AM

So I've been trying to puzzle this thing out. I've bought a couple of books, one on the Motorolla HSC12 embedded microprocessor family and one on programming for C. It's not my forte so progress is going to be very slow. In the meantime I've been asking around and my current long term plan is to work with a local college professor and see if we can set up a student project next year sometime.

But that doesn't get me driving. So short term I'm going to nerf the controller and take two of the LED outputs used for the digital gear display and jumper those over to run two of the shifting solenoids. I will jumper the paddle upshift back to it's usual port. With any luck that will get the transmission out of limp-home mode and then I can concentrate on tuning. Provided this works I should be able to drive the car very soon.

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: February 26, 2017 02:36PM

Well that solution didn't get too far because coding is required in order to configure an LED output as anything else.

So, now I'm looking at pulling the jumpers for the two least important solenoids. It looks like that will be the ones for Clutch pack 3 and brake band 1. with those disabled I will have gears 1,4,5 and 6. 6th is 1:1 so no overdrive and since 1st is about 4.5:1 there's a huge jump to 4th which is about 1.8. But the car can currently lay down 50 yards of double stripes from a rolling start uphill in 3rd so at least it should be driveable and I can work on some tuning. I just have to work out the new jumper assignments and then sort out the GUI configuration in TunerStudio.

Jim



BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: March 20, 2017 12:05AM

Still working on learning to program in "C". But in the meantime, here's some eye candy:

IMG_0002.JPG

I have my new hubs blanked out. So some day they will be on the car. That's over $100 just in billet aluminum right there. Then you whittle most of it away and turn it into scrap. It's hardly even worth the trouble to recycle.

But, a few more hours on the lathe and then some on the mill and they will be ready. Caps though, got to think about caps. Can't be using those ugly tin ones.

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 03, 2017 10:17PM

Trying to get ready for 2017BritishV8. I have the hubs done except for bolts:

IMG_0026.JPG

I'll have to make plates to mount the Outlaw calipers as well.

As for the transmission, since it doesn't look like the code will be ready to run the 8 speed in time I've made plans to install a T5 temporarily. That way I can at least drive the car while the bugs are being worked out, and I'm considering setting up a test bench to drive the transmission for that purpose.

Also, I found the '85 XJ6 speedo is the same size as the early MGB and has a motor on the back. That and the pulse generator in the T5's speedo drive might be compatible.

Jim


rficalora
Rob Ficalora
Cypress, TX
(2305 posts)

Registered:
10/24/2007 02:46PM

Main British Car:
'76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: rficalora
Date: May 04, 2017 08:16PM

Hope to see your car Jim. Its been too long!


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 12, 2017 06:13PM

It has. Things are looking reasonably promising. Here is a photo of my new adapter brackets to mount my Outlaw calipers.

Jim

IMG_0024.JPG


rficalora
Rob Ficalora
Cypress, TX
(2305 posts)

Registered:
10/24/2007 02:46PM

Main British Car:
'76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: rficalora
Date: May 12, 2017 11:13PM

You must be pretty confident if you're taking the time to anodize brackets :). They look great.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 13, 2017 01:16PM

Thanks Rob. Just a little corrosion resistance where it'll do some good. I only wish I'd been able to do the wheels. That's be pretty ambitious, but who knows, maybe over the winter I could do it. It's coming along. The flywheel is out for balancing and I've cut down the HTOB to accommodate the bent-finger pressure plate.Reduced travel but I think it'll be OK. Need to get hoses made up, bleed the clutch and front brakes, do some tuning, and hopefully sort out the speedo. If not, well, I have GPS on the phone.

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 16, 2017 03:02PM

Brake photos:

IMG_0027.JPG

IMG_0028.JPG

Hopefully I'll have hoses and flywheel tomorrow and can install the tranny. Then order up a driveshaft and the rest is just details.

Jim


MGBV8
Carl Floyd
Kingsport, TN
(3105 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 11:32PM

Main British Car:
79 MGB, Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: MGBV8
Date: May 16, 2017 03:27PM

You & Terry Schulte. ;)

Oops, I thought it was Terry. Somebody from the Fast Cars shop had fancy wavy rotors.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2017 03:30PM by MGBV8.



BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 19, 2017 01:33PM

Got the tranny installed. Driveshaft should be here tuesday. A few other details to see to.

Jim


mowog1
Rick Ingram
Central Illinois
(1372 posts)

Registered:
10/17/2007 09:36PM

Main British Car:
1974.5 MGB/GT 3.9l Rover

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: mowog1
Date: May 19, 2017 09:18PM

re: Somebody from the Fast Cars shop had fancy wavy rotors.

That would be the red MGB conversion with the Portavents on the side.


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(1728 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 19, 2017 10:35PM

Jim, Do you happen to know how much weight was added to the flywheel for balancing?


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 19, 2017 11:34PM

I'll try to get you an approximate number tomorrow. It was more than the weight Chris's guy added but less than double that. I should be able to get you a number that is close.

Jim


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5197 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: 340 upgrade
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: May 31, 2017 11:37AM

Jim, the best estimate that I can give you was that it was probably somewhere in the vicinity of 150 grams. certainly over 120 and less than twice that, so I'd say maybe 150-175g. So around 5-6 ounces, placed against the rim on the back side.

Jim
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