MG Sports Cars

Hello all, I am at the point in my 302 conversion where I need to determine the proper height of my T5 aft mount. I need advice on the angle of the engine (front to back). Is there a correct or desirable angle? I think I read somewhere that a 4 degree slope is optimal, but I have no idea where I heard this or if it is even true. Also is this angle measured with the car in a true level position or measured from a loaded driving position? Thanks in advance for any ideas/help, Don P.

If it is a carbureted engine, level the carburetor flange and see how it fits.

The angle of the engine isn't nearly as important as it is to match that angle to the pinion angle of the differential so that the drive shaft runs smoothly. This site has all the information on setting up a drive line, [www.iedls.com]
If you haven't installed the rear housing yet you can set the engine to where it fits the best and then match the rear to that angle when you make up the brackets for it.

Thanks for the quick responses. I currently have the shortened 8.8 bolted into the car, but I have not yet welded it to the spring perches, thus I can still rotate the diff. Bill, is it safe to assume that matching the angle of the T5 flange to the differential flange will then make the pinion and transmission angles parallel (both being 90 degrees to the flanges)? As you suggested it would make it a little easier to move my transmission a bit and then match my differential to the T5. Am I also safe in assuming, (yes I know what happens when you assume), that all of this should be done on level ground with the car loaded in a normal driving condition? Thanks again.....Don Prince

Usually there is not a lot of leeway to adjust the engine angle. Once you set the engine as low as it will go in the engine bay (about 1/4" clearance everywhere is good if you can get it) and raise the tailshaft enough that it and the driveshaft universal joint will clear the welded in crossmember, you're pretty well done because there isn't a whole lot of room above the tranny anyway and what is there is needed for access to the shifter bolts. Plus, any higher and bellhousing clearance starts to get tight. What room there is, probably isn't enough to change the engine angle more than a degree. If you get your pinion within 1/2 degree with the car on the wheels you're good.

Jim

Quote:

...level the carburetor flange and see how it fits...

Although I agree in principal, some intake designs won't allow that. Case in point for my Edelbrock 302 Performer manifold, the engine carb plane is at about 7 degrees to horizontal which means that I'd have to have a 7 degree power angle to get the carb level. As it is, my installed engine is at about 2 3/4 degrees tail down which results in the carb tilted forward.
The good news is that it doesn't affect performance any and actually helps hood clearance.

Thanks again for all the advice. IEDS.com was very educating, and I believe had the jist of what I was looking for. I have indeed modified my front crossmember as low as I feel I can go (chrome bumper crossmember). So the front of the engine is pretty well set. But it seems I have about an 1" of a height window to set the aft T5 mount (I'm not sure how many degrees that equals). I plan on measuring everything out tomorrow. I know that with the spring perches not yet welded to the rear end, and engine angle not yet set, that this is my one and only chance to get things right. Hope I get it right the first time. Thanks again.....Don Prince

I can't remember if I posted this yet. I can't seem to find it so here it is again. Seems like a good place to post it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2012 09:24PM by kill r b.

Hmmm, I'm trying to post a photo of an engine leveler I drew but I can't get it to work. It's a simple MS paint drawing. What gives anyone? Ok I edited this post. I finally got it.

Dann



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2012 09:47PM by kill r b.

OK, I think I got it. This is a device for those who are setting up an engine and making their own motor mounts.You may find you have to cut off your old engine mounts but you would anyway if you were doing a swap. I didn't draw the T angle close to the frame because I didn't have any idea how close you can get it. Make this thing in pairs and hook the chain between them and place the chain under the engine near the front and secure it some way to the engine for more control. You can adjust the engine up or down or pitch the engine CW or CCW. Use small handle jack to get the correct angle to match the pinion flange. I threw it together but I wouldn't really know if it would work OK. Feel free to change anything you want. It should be very accurate if it works. You could probably make a steel strap that might work better. A small chain would make better contact. BE SAFE!! Skye killed the post on his web site, seems he might still be sore. It opens in MS Paint. Left click your cursor on it to enlarge the drawing.

You will need a piece of angle and right angle iron

Dann BCC











Edited 8 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2012 06:45AM by kill r b.

A level carb can't possibly be that important. The only time it would be level 'round here is when it's parked in the garage. ;)

Hi Carl, could be very true. :-) I had an old round n' round stock car racer tell me once that they never used a carb on their stock cars in the '50's. It was just a foot operated valve and it dumped fuel in the manifold and whatever cylinder wanted it got it. He was just a good ole boy and I believed him from how he said it was installed. Must have been very reliable but a I hope they kept fire extiguishers aboard but I doubt it, them ole boys invented seat of your pants driving!. I didn't finish the whole description of the leveler so I went back and edited it. As I read it didn't make much sense. I also had it posted on the MG Experience too site but Skye said it was adverting and killed it and my membership again. Oh dear, I am such an annoying pest. ;-(

Dann BCC

Our V8 and V6 mounts are adjustable to facilitate the setting of the engine. The ideal is a 3 degree which it will not affect the carb.

MGB has a 6-7 degree angle up on the axle, so 2-3 degree angle down on the engine is ok. Need room (angle) for passenger weight and extras. This will put the engine and axle at parallel lines or near.

Plus any BOPR install that sits the engine low is going to end up right at 3 degrees anyway.

Jim

As we speak I am putting a Ford 2.3 Turbo Coupe motor into a TR3 and going through the pinion angle deal also.I was using my friends oil filled pinion angle finder and not having much luck since it wouldnt move just one or two degrees very easily.I thought maybe a digital level would give me a bettre readout. Un fortunately they cost around two hundred dollars.BUT I found a small square digital box at Lee Valley which is used to set table saw blades. It has magnets on three sides, reads to one tenth of a degree and works perfectly. Cost thirty eight dollars.If your going to be reading angles for anything you have to have one of these.They are the cats meow

Doesn't TR7 use cv's ? As I understand it, they don't have "phasing" issues like trunion style u-joints. Seems like cv's on a conventional drive shaft would be smoother, with less drag ? roverman.

Sorry guys - I couldn't resist providing this film clip on performance carburetion (level flange or not!)

[videos2view.net]

Gives a whole new meaning to "Tunnel Ram". The instructions do tell you to level it.

Probably should use a "low flow" unit for the smaller engines.

that's great. Where do you find that stuff.