MG Sports Cars

On my MGB, if I use the tube shock conversion front & rear, can I expect a smoother ride?

Also, on the front, if I use the tube shock conversion, do I have to drain the oil from the original shock?

Thanks,
Dan

Dan,
I've done shock conversions on MGB's I have owned. The the difference in ride can be tuned to your liking if you use adjustable shocks.
As for the lever shocks you remove the valve and spring and keep the oil for lubrication, it still will be moving.
Any good shock conversion kit will explain all this in the directions.
Good Luck!
John

racinemg Wrote:
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> Also, on the front, if I use the tube shock
> conversion, do I have to drain the oil from the
> original shock?
>

Probably depends on the kit. The Classic Conversions Engineering coil over kit for the front completely replaces the front shocks. Check it out at [www.classicconversionseng.com]

Thanks for the info. I'm getting a lot of links from you fellows and it's appreciated. The Guzman independent front end coil over system looks very good. And it looks very easy to install. The question I'll have for Bill Guzman, is I lengthened the wheel base to 109" with a '34 frame and I cut the stock crossmember and spread it 6", then built mounts to bolt in the '34 frame; and this required lowering the steering rack (down) to clear the '34 frame; this required switching the right & left steering arms to opposite sides, mounting them upside down which in effect lowered them to the same position as the lowered rack. But my question to the conversion company will be: if this configuration will not interfere with the new lower A-arms? Thanks again. I do appreciate the information.

Something I had to invent but it may be commonplace with you MG swappers - the 60 degree 3.4 6 cylinder has quite a bit of torque. And I used new original MG motor mounts and new MG rubber transmount (made in China). the first two weeks the car was on the road, the rear transmount broke ( the rubber after-market mount). My first solution was to put an 8" chain on the front left-hand exhaust manifold bolt bolted the other end to the frame (like a hemi chain - ha). Besides being a little proud, I had trouble keeping it adjusted by using a series of washers. So, I built an 'L' bracket that attached to the top & bottom, front right side manifold bolts, vertically then horizontal with a diagonal brace and mounted on the horizontal, a polyurethane adjustable axle stop (frame stubber) that sits on top of the frame. If anybody's interested, I'll try to draw it or get a picture of it. And when the engine torques to the right, the stubber hits the frame and I haven't broken any transmounts since...but I'm sure somebody makes a kit that probably a hell of a lot easier!

Thanks for your help!

Heck, your fabricating is waaay beyond me. I just used a turnbuckle. ;-)

[www.britishv8.org]

I've always liked the solution Graham Creswick came up with...