MG Sports Cars

Hello..... I have my mock engine fitted in the MGB and I am trying to figure out the best way to check the fitment of my T-5. I have made the necesary cuts to the transmission tunnel but I want to check fitment. The transmission is from a 1990 V8 mustang. However, I was wondering how other people have check the fitment of their t-5 transmission? It is heavy and akward when you are laying on your back trying to figure out the best way and correct hieght your transmission should be at? Any thought or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

I test fitted mine attached to the engine. Dropped the engine in on the mounts and used a floor jack to bring the tranny up. Any time I pulled just the tranny, I balanced it on the floor jack. Use one hand on the tailshaft & work the floor jack with the other hand.

Carl has it right - attached to the engine is best - you're more likely to find interference points with the bellhousing and not the xsmn.

I used the same method as Carl, and found it much easier. With the engine on the front mounts and the floor jack under the transmission there is less hassles in fabricating the trans mount and cross member.

Paul



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/17/2012 12:40AM by pspeaks.

Just a few weeks ago I installed my engine and T5 for the final time (I hope). After installing the engine and trans more times that I want to remember here are a few tips for installing the trans based on my experience.

The short shifter arm coming out of the shifter cover will cause aggravation so you need to take the shifter cover assembly off. I replaced it with a piece of plywood with bolt holes drilled to match the shifter cover holes. Before you put the engine in you first need to get the trans up into the tunnel as back far as possible and wedged in so that without being supported by a jack it won't fall out. Do so by putting it on a floor jack. (I never did find a perfect point on the trans were is was well balanced and stable.) Jack slowly and carefully (holding on to the trans so it doesn’t fall off the jack) until the bottom of the tail shaft can clear the short cross member located near the rear of the trans tunnel. Start moving the jack/trans towards the rear of the car raising or lowering the jack as necessary until the trans is as far back as it will go. You should then be able to lower the jack and the trans will stay put with it’s weight on that short cross member.
Install the engine with the clutch and bell housing attached.
Using a floor jack you can now move the trans forward to the engine.
You'll probably need to get creative with ratchet wrench extensions sockets and swivels in order to get the top trans to bell housing bolts in and tight.

Steve

Nick,

Perhaps I missed something but what car are you installing the T5 in? I would say to put in the engine and tranny together, then you can get an idea of the engine mounts and crossmember together.

Can you post some pics of where you have the engine/tansmission in the car with your supports (lift, stands, etc.)?

Brad



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/19/2012 06:45PM by denvermgb.

X2 on Brad's advice - engine and tranny should be test fit together.

Also good on Steve's advice to remove the shift lever before test fitting. In most cases, the top of the lever will hit the trans tunnel on the way in. Not impossible to work around but for the effort involved in removing four screws and covering the opening, well worth it. Just makes things easier.

Thanks for the comments. I got my transmission fitted with the Mock 302 block. I guess there is no real way to really check fitment without removing everything, but that is what I had to due. Removed mock block, Lifted transmission in place, placed jack undertransmission, installed eninge block and bolted to trasmission. Stock transmission crossmember did not fit properly so I will have to fabricate a new one. I will post some pictures soon. I really need to update my build thread.

Quote:

Stock transmission crossmember did not fit properly so I will have to fabricate a new one.

If it comes any where near close, consider modifying the stock one. Are you aware that there is an extra set of threaded holes under the car so that the stock crossmember can be bolted in two locations? Slide it back one hole & weld a new tranny mount (after you cut the old stuff off).

This may or may not help, but this is the crossmember I fabricated and works great on my 72. Depending on how low your motor sets in the engine bay it might need to be modified to get the right pinion angle. Obviously it is upside down; I used all three holes in the frame. The two large holes are so you can get a socket to the bolt heads.

Paul

Carl & Paul

I am already on the last set of holes and transmission mount is about an inch past that, so I am going to have to fabricate a new one like paul suggested or like one of the other ones in the how to sections I have looked at. I will take some pictures soon. Last night I updated my build journal if anyone is interested on my progress. I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and thanks again for all the comments and suggestions!

A cheapy motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight (or my garage!!) works really well for transmissions. Just got doing a T-45 5-speed to T-56 6-speed on my sons car this last weekend and was very happy with the lift!!! I have tried the adapter thing from Harbor Freight that goes in a standard lift, but the thing is probably a foot tall in the down position so it's about useless.

Here is a pic of one similar to mine. It sits really low, is pretty manueverable and raises pretty high. Your welcome to borrow it any time?





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2012 05:41AM by goat-ee.

For y crossmember, we used part of the Chevy T5 mount but used mostly the stock MGB cross member. I can't remember which set of holes we used to mount it, I think it was the stock location.

Brad

Quote:

I am already on the last set of holes and transmission mount is about an inch past that

Why can't you weld on a tab or extension that cantilevers out a bit?

I had one of D&D's early straight one that I wound up not using because of exhaust interference. A modded stock crossmember does a good job of tucking up clear of the exhaust pipe path.

Carl,
Initialy I thought I would just fabricate a new one but you are right it would just be easier to modify the old one. The more I think about it would be a better way to go. Thanks