MG Sports Cars

Hi,

A liitle help if you gentlemen could please.

Most rover V8/Ford T5 gearbox conversions oner in the UK appear to be for Cobra replicas rather than MGB.

Wher you guys have installed this combination into a MGB (1976 version) have you had to make any alteations to the transmission tunnel ? (as you would if fitting the LT77 gearbox)

Many thanks

John, I converted my 1972 MGB-GT to a Ford 302 V8 with a Ford T-5 transmission and made no changes or modifications to the tunnel what so ever, but I had to shorten the throw-out arm a bit. Now the firewall is another issue of course!


Paul

The answer depends on which V8 and where you mount it. I had to use a hammer on a couple of spots to gain a bit of clearance but nothing major.

I will be using the Rover V8 and as the body shell is of 1976 origin it was made to accept this unit.

I assume that as the T5 will fit onto a Ford block without any tunnel alterations the same should apply to the Rover block

Thank you for the help and information

John

The T5 gearbox isn't so "tall" in cross-section as an LT77 gearbox, so it should fit without significant tunnel modifications... but that's assuming your engine is mounted in the popular place. If your engine is installed unusually far rearward (as mine is) or if it's mounted uncommonly high, there might be clearance issues.

Prefabricated motor mounts for Rover V8 conversions have traditionally come in two versions... one which is nominally for the standard motor position and the other which shifts the engine to make room for air conditioning.

People talk about Ford T5 boxes versus Chevy T5 boxes. Those are ambiguous terms. Shifter spacing back from the bellhousing varies. The shifter position on a Chevy Camaro V8 box (like I used) is farther rearward than for a Chevy S10 pickup truck gearbox, so my shifter ended up rearward of the stock MGB shifter hole. I can't speak with any certainty about Ford boxes, but I wouldn't be surprised to learn their shifter positions varied between vehicle models too.

As I recall, a Ford Mustang gearbox has a longer input shaft than a Chevy Camaro gearbox, and thus needs a longer bellhousing or at least needs a bellhousing spacer. I used an original 1963 Buick bellhousing, so my Chevy-spec T5 bolted right up. Which bellhousing are you using? With a Buick bellhousing, the clutch fork comes out at approximately a 7 or 8 o'clock angle, and that gave me a clearance problem. I had to shorten the clutch fork (or use a "hydraulic throw-out bearing").

Bottom line: you should probably plan on a trial installation of your gearbox/bellhousing/clutch fork/shifter... but in any event, it's unlikely you'll need a cutting torch to make your gearbox fit.

Hi

Thanks for the insight, I have pasted a link to the bellhusing I am intending to use

[www.v8tuner.co.uk]

The gear box will be the Ford T5 Worls Class version.

Not sure where I will buy the gearbox from yet (as strange as it may sound I can buy and ship many parts from the US cheaper than I can buy them over here) and a lot of the part will be coming from Summit.

I agree the correct route would be a trial installation but I'm on vacation this week and was hoping to finsh the work on the underside and get a coat of Lizard Skin on it. If it's just a case of taking a big hammer to it at a later date there should not be a problem

Thanks again

John

Cool.

I should have included this link for general reference: T5 Gearbox Identification, Gear Ratios, Etc.. It won't help you much if you're buying a brand new Tremec T5 aftermarket gearbox. Tremec bought design and production rights from Borg Warner after OEM usage dried up. However, the link probably will help anyone who is considering a used, rebuilt, or NOS (new old stock) Borg Warner T5 gearbox.

John, I should have mentioned that I use a 1989 Ford SVO Mustang T-5 Transmission 1352-200 and the shifter is a few inches aft of the stock MG location. I did have to reposition the hole, and while it's really easy to do, it will affect your console; I made my own. The new shifter position is perfect for me as I’m 6’-2” and drive with the seat all the way back.


Paul



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2013 02:18PM by pspeaks.

Hi Paul,

Not quite that tall, but I think a couple of inches will be fine. In fact it will probably help. I have modified the fire wall (bulkhead) to accept a Tilton twin brake set up which has moved the pedals back a bit.

I will not be using the centre console, so thats not an issue.

Many thanks


John

I modified and used my console again because I wanted to run the tail light wires under it rather than have them under the car and in the way of duel exhaust. A habit from my T-Bucket days when I tried to hide everything.


Paul



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2013 02:26PM by pspeaks.

Hi Paul,

I have taken a different route but with the same idea.

I will not be using the rear seat (mine is a GT version) and I am using the space under the seat for most of the electrics. When I replaced the inner and outer sills I ran a plastic conduit inside the right hand side sill, the wires from front to back ect. will be run in this.

I have also used the space under the seat to mount an electric parking brake I have made (using a 12volt linear actuator.)

The idea is that only the main battery wire, brake and fuel lines will run under the car.

Allowance has also been made to run the front wiring under the front fender. So hopfully the engine bat should be nice and clean

Regards

John

As I understand it the best combination ofT5 gearboxes and the Rover V8 engine is the Ford Sierra Cosworth gearbox. The reason for this is that the gear lever comes out through the existing tunnel hole and the input shaft is fitted with the correct splines to marry up with the standard Rover clutch plate. The TVR version of the T5 has the same input shaft but I think it has the S10? tailshaft which puts the gearlever under the radio slot! This of course can be substituted with the Cosworth one as all tailshafts are interchangable. The GM T5 has a slightly longer input shaft and the gearlever is 38mm (11/2 inches) further back
As an aside genuine World Class 2.95 gearsets are on Ebay Uk site for $165 (aprox today) and if the pound falls further will be a good buy for those in the USA. They are removed from new TVR gearboxes (and replaced with much closer ratios for racing) and are claimed to be the high torque rated gears.
regards
Philip

Hi Philip,

Thank you, the information regarding the Cosworth gearbox is just what I needed.

I have found a website of a company that just deals with Cosworth parts so I will keep on eye open to see what comes up.

See we are the same site of the pond.

Have you been involved with MGs for long ?

Regards

John

John,when i was going to use t5/rv8 combo i obtained one from a TVR chimera and had it refurbished,i then changed my mind and went 302/t5,diff bellhousing and input shaft,so i bought new t5 from real steel,i still have TVR t5 if you wanted a used unit,have a lot of parts for Rv8 conversion ie new headers RV8 thro fender in stainless steel,shout if any interest,i think i've been down most roads now and boy have i wasted some £ssss,have you got 'how to give your mgb v8 power' worth a read,anyway not a sales plug just trying to help

nigel

Hi Nigel,

Last question first, I think I have all the books going on MGs and the various upgrade routes. They have been an easy buy for my family every time they are stuck for a presents !! (then again I bought my first B in 1973 so they have had lots of time)

Having read Phillip's post does the Chimera have the short tailshaft ?

I will PM you regarding the bits you have have where you are

Thanks

John

"Prefabricated motor mounts for Rover V8 conversions have traditionally come in two versions...
one which is nominally for the standard motor position and the other which shifts the engine to make room for air conditioning."

Hey Curtis,

I wasn't aware of these options. Where do you find motor mounts for specific applications? I thought most guys made their own unless they're swapping a Ford V8 and buying ready-made kits.

Tim

Glen Towery has been selling mounts for MGB / BOPR conversions for years. Both versions of his mounts are shown in this article: [www.britishv8.org] If you read our old "How It Was Done" articles, you'll see that Glen's A/C mounts have been used on a bunch of cars. As I recall, one of Jim Stuart's car uses Glen's mounts except further modified. I also think I remember that D&D sells similar mounts. Might be worth a few phone calls if you don't care to fabricate your own...

Hi John
My understanding of T5 gearboxes is that starting off with any one version they can be built into any other by substituting input shafts and the tailhousings. I do not think there is any major difference in the length of the taishaft it is the position of the gearlever on it that counts. I think that TVR uses the S10 with the furthest forward gear lever mounting. There are plenty of Cosworth T5s that are needing repair on ebay and I would think that it is gears one thru four that are shot. There is a heavy duty .80 ratio fith gear available in the USA
I first discovered this on one of the MG websites where some one bought a low mileage TVR gearbox and bellhousing and had the Cosworth tailshaft fitted to it. If you are using the TVR bellhousing some have a large access hole in the bottom which lets in water and can lead to clutch seizure!
In reply to you earlier question I bought my first B in 1974 and kept it until i got married in 1982! At the time the choice of the B or a 1963 Lotus Elise, I chose the wrong one in that a good Elise is worth a lot more than a B now. a friend of mine bought a new Lotus Elan in 1973 and still has it!
regards Philip

Hi Philip,

We got hooked around the same time, I bought my first B in 1973.

I kept it until 1982 when my wife left with it, I will make no comment about which I missed the most !!!!!!!

Regards

John

I too need some advice on this subject. I have 77 MGB that has been converted to a GM 3.4 v6 and a T5 trans, both from a 1994 Camaro. The trans is leaned to the side 20 degrees and it works just fine with my Hurst billet shifter.
I am having some issues with my V6 and an considering replacing it with a 3.9 Rover and would like to use the same T5 that is in the car now. From doing some research I know that I will need to either buy a new bellhousing for the swap or locate a 4 speed 215 bell housing.
Here's the part that I'm not sure about. What flywheel can I use, is there one that will allow me to use the clutch and HTOB that have on my V6? It has 1k miles on it. Can I use the regular Rover starter or must I go with a mini starter? I read some where that the T5 that I am using would need the input shaft shortened. Is this true????
I know there are suppliers that have light flywheels and clutch assemblies to go with them but I need to save as much $$ as possible. If I can put together the clutch and flywheel from off the shelf parts I'm sure It would be cheaper.
I currently have about 3.93 billion dollars in this car and need to really watch the budget, my wife says that 4 billion is the absolute limit.