MG Sports Cars

As I'm sure everyone knows by now, my motor sets a little higher than I would like, but that's just something I'm going to have to live with until I can afford to do something about the stock cross member. With the stock hood the metal cross brace hits my distributor cap and obviously I need a tad more clearance for the carb. I plan to buy a RV8 hood from Bill but I was wondering if the bubble starts enough forward to give me a little help with the distributor?

I know it's a lot of trouble but maybe better info would be if someone who has one could give me a measurement in in. from the center back edge of the hood to the front of the bubble where it starts up.


Paul



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2013 01:57AM by pspeaks.

Paul, lose the cross brace or relocate it.

31.5 inches.

Quite a few of the MGB hoods on this website have had their cross braces removed.

Curtis has mentioned before how high my motor sets even though it has the traditional notched front cross member and straddles the steering rack. I think you guys came to the conclusion that the early cross members were different. I'll try removing the hood cross brace and I might try to find a different distributor, I don't care all that much for the one I have anyway, but don't think it will be enough and I'll still have the carb clearance issue. I also might try a lower profile intake but do like the one I have and the HP increase.

Paul




Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2013 11:49AM by pspeaks.

I think Graham, Kelly, or Rob were discussing different distributor heights a while back.

I remember Larry Shimp saying something about how he swapped distributors to find more bonnet clearance.

Has anyone checked to see if the small dia. GM, "crab cap" will fit ? Can the standard distributor shaft/housing be shortened ? I have have shortened/modded, non-215 distributors, to fit these. The .500" dia shaft, is the best to start with. Cheers, roverman.

Drop base air cleaner helps also. I think Rob went to the mid 80's Duraspark distributor and used the smaller old style cap.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2013 01:37PM by mgb260.

Check Alex Mantell's car (shown on this page ), 302 , RV8 hood.
Dave

Paul, my motor sits quite high (Rover 3.5) and I don't have an issue with the distributor but I did have a problem with air cleaner clearance. My solution was a custom remote cleaner.

I have given a remote air cleaner some thought and have seriously considered something like Curtis uses, and I know this sounds crazy, but the hood touches the top of the carb without an air cleaner. I'll take some new pictures when the sun comes up tomorrow. The RV8 hood would take care of that issue but I think I'm going to have to change to a Cardone distributor with the small cap. Like I say I was just curious as to how far forward the hood bubble came.

I have a lot of experience with fiberglass building T-Bucket bodies and have thought of molding my own bubble to insure it will provide the clearance I want but as I've mentioned before unless the conditions are pretty good fiberglass and metal don't seem to like each other much, particularly when the metal tends to flex even a small amount.


Paul

I used the Proform Super-lite aluminum air cleaner, and used a 2 inch air filter. The Proform was the most drop base I could find. To fit the 2 inch air filter, I cut the choke off of the carb and made new float bowl vent tubes. I also am using the Edelbrock RPM intake. You could go to the performer intake (or something similar) and might not have to cut the choke. Even on below freezing days, a couple pumps of the pedal and less than a minute of holding the idle up and it idles fine on its own.

I'm use to early morning fist fights with a choke. My T-Bucket was the most cold natured car I ever owned. I obviously parked it in the winter, but it didn't even like relatively cool days. On the other hand, it had a Chevy engine, sorry Chevy guys. Thanks for the great tips; not sure what I'm going to do yet but I'll ponder it for a while. Even with a RV8 hood I lean toward a remote because I'd like a cold air intake.


Paul

Paul, what kind of engine mounts are you using? It seems your engine is sitting really high....

I'm using head mounts but that isn't the problem. I've notched the front cross member as far as I dare and the motor is almost touching the steering rack between the balancer and the pan; it won't go any lower. Pictures make it look like it's setting really high because it has Ford Racing valve covers like Alex Mantell's. It looks to me like it sets about the same height as Alex.

No, it doesn't have a bungee cord any more, that was just a visual reference, it actually has a fan belt on it now.

Paul

Paul, if it's any help the steering rack can be moved down. Details are on the Roadmaster thread and my 340 thread.

Jim

Thanks Jim, I'll check that out. I was a little concern about doing that in the past because I didn't want to induce bump steer, or more likely just make what I already have worse. Unfortunately I didn't plan all that well when I first started, ok, I didn't really plan at all, and though the front sump is very small, I picked a motor with a double sump pan and have about as much as I can cut out of the front cross member. I would have used my 93 Explorer motor but it was in my daughters Explorer at the time and she said ABSOLUTELY NOT. I simply don't understand her, after all, MG vs Explorer, which one would you want a 302 in? I'm sure I'll come up with a solution that's acceptable; either way, I'll still love my little car!


Paul