MG Sports Cars

OK. Let's start with a bit of my history - I love Oldsmobiles. First car was one (still own it) and I'll probably be driving an Olds powered car until the day I die. That being said, I'm in the very rough planning stages of Olds power #2 (OP2). We're talking like 8 years down the road. Now, the first car is an 83 Delta 88 with the original 307. Great car, good top end, couch-like comfort...but no nuts. Also, even with the police-spec suspension, it rolls like a beached fat woman in the corners.

So, I'm looking for something a bit different here...I've seen 215 powered cars on here, and realize that of the swaps, this is probably the "easiest;" however, we're not going for easy here, we're going for different. I'd like a car that is small and light, easily driven, manual transmission, mechanically bulletproof, and easily upgradeable. Further, it needs to have good handling, a healthy acceleration rate (we're talking mid-12's or better in the 1/4) and a good top end, since I'd like to run it in the Silver State Classic in one of the lower categories.

So, I've been looking at MGB's, and I have a few questions.


1. I'd love to put an Aurora 4.0L in there. I can't see this being much heavier, but it IS wider. How much more space is available on the sides of a 215, if you run the headers through the fenders?

2. are there any stiffness problems with the convertibles? They're obviously easier to find, but with 350-400 lb-ft torque, I don't want a pretzel car...

3. how much power can the stock rear take? For 350 hp and lb-ft, should I just swap in a narrowed Ford 8.8"?

4. Midgets...are they even worth looking at, or are they TOO small?



I'm sure I'll be thinking of a lot more, but for the moment, those are the ones I'm thinking of...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/23/2008 02:16AM by mickey85.

Matt, just my opinion but I do have some experience. For a V8 Midgets are too small. As far as engine compartment room in a B, check out the Roadmaster threads. We're putting a 455 in a B and the exhaust ports are only a couple of inches from the fender wells, have to run the pipes out the side into the fenderwell. You might also want to check the "340 upgrade" thread as well. Jim is moving up to a 340 or 350 Buick and these aren't too far from the same size engine in the Olds.
When I consider a swap I rely on three measurments to determine if the engine will fit the compartment well, those are bell housing diameter, engine length from bell housing face to crank pulley, and engine height from crank center to top. Add in the width for extremely wide engines. You really need to just take your measuring tape out to the bone yard and take some measurments then compare them with the MGB compartment. I'm sure one of the guys here can provide those if you don't have a B already.
The main problem that adds complexity and cost to many swaps is having to relocate the steering. If that can be avioded you dodge a lot of problems with bump steer etc. and extra u-joints in the shaft just add slop which you really don't want if you can avoid it.
The stock rear axle is pretty stout, but the ratio selection is very limited, I'd go for the 8.8 or some other axle with more ratios and a posi available at reasonable prices.
For best chassis stiffness consider a GT instead of the roadster. Bs are pretty good, but like any convertable lack a bit of stiffness, the GT is much better, especially with a full cage. I go the chance to ride with Curtis Jacobson in his GT with a full cage at the British V8 meet and it's amazingly tight and stiff. [www.britishv8.org] For something like the Silver State Classic the only way to go. All the precision of the suspension depends on the chassis stiffness.
Sounds like a neat concept if you can source a bellhousing and flywheel/clutch assembly for that engine. A world class T5 would be great with it.
You have it right, take plenty of time and plan well in advance.

How about a big block Buick? A TA aluminum block is $5900, and they have a set of stage 2 aluminum heads that have short exhaust ports which will probably clear the stock steering, about $2500. Not that pricey considering. About 400 lbs and WELL in excess of 500/500. What's not to like? I'd LOVE to see someone build one of those.

Jim

Personally, that's what the Delta 88 is for - eventually it'll get a stroked Olds Diesel block and T56 tranny. The sports car would be high-winding, yet have tire melting torque. The Delta 88 would only be low to mid range (<5,000 RPM) power.

Of course, I could just go the fire breathing way - there's an IRL spec Aurora motor on racingjunk for sale...hee hee...Can you say 15,000 RPM and 700 hp? oh yes.

But you want something that fits, right? and is at stock weight? That might limit your choices a little. How about one of the ten best engines of all time, three times in a row? 1500hp+ in a compact package and only headers to fabricate? Look at the Grand National engine (Buick 3800 Gen II or III). Only 2 that I know of have been done, neither of which used the aluminum block.

Jim

northstar/aurora weighs in around 464. Strong motor - kinda wide - down side is cast-in cylinder sleeves - leaving rebuilds as questionable if not a throwaway engine.

there's lots of Toyota/lexus 1uzfes around for cheap - 470lbs 26" wide (close to bopr width) and an easy 300 hp or a bmw 4.0 at about the same weight.