MG Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" and Costello V8s

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pspeaks
Paul Speaks
Dallas, Texas
(698 posts)

Registered:
07/20/2009 06:40PM

Main British Car:
1972 MGB-GT 1979 Ford 302

authors avatar
Front Springs
Posted by: pspeaks
Date: December 28, 2013 12:54AM

I know I would be better off with coil overs but that's in the future. My front suspension is stock MG with the exception of a tube shock kit and with the 302 and T-5 I still have what I think is sufficient spring travel. I do have a set of new bushings to install and could change them at the same time. Is this going to be a problem or should I change the front springs?


Paul


billymgb1000
bill gaulin
harrisville R.I.
(69 posts)

Registered:
11/30/2012 12:31AM

Main British Car:
1974 MGB V8 LS1 5.3

Re: Front Springs
Posted by: billymgb1000
Date: December 28, 2013 03:12AM

hello paul if you are talking about the lower a frame bushings your springs will come out when you do them so why not put the new springs in


ex-tyke
Graham Creswick
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
(1082 posts)

Registered:
10/25/2007 11:17AM

Main British Car:
1976 MGB Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: Front Springs
Posted by: ex-tyke
Date: December 28, 2013 08:43AM

Paul, the quick answer is that the stock MG springs are adequate for the 302 conversion - no sophisticated upgrades needed in the short term other than the usual attention to worn components (kingpins, bushings, etc)..


pspeaks
Paul Speaks
Dallas, Texas
(698 posts)

Registered:
07/20/2009 06:40PM

Main British Car:
1972 MGB-GT 1979 Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: Front Springs
Posted by: pspeaks
Date: December 28, 2013 10:33AM

The car was never a daily driver so the king pins and bushings have reasonable millage on them but the rubber parts are 41 years old. As I have new parts I'll replace them and inspect the other front parts when I do. Thanks for the info.


Paul


MARVIN, CT
Marvin Stuart
Preston, CT
(14 posts)

Registered:
02/10/2011 11:38AM

Main British Car:
'52 MGTD '37 Ford V8-60

Re: Front Springs
Posted by: MARVIN, CT
Date: December 28, 2013 03:19PM

Along the same subject, I'd like to drop the front of my MGTD about an inch. What would be the best approach without cutting or heating? Thanks, Marvin, ct


hirot
Ian Hart
Ashbourne UK
(88 posts)

Registered:
06/01/2011 05:15AM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB GT (conversion) Rover 3947 R380 gearbox

authors avatar
Re: Front Springs
Posted by: hirot
Date: December 29, 2013 08:40AM

Don't know if it helps but I have 77 shell which I lowered using Moss AHT21PR front springs, negative camber wishbones, standard dampers, lowered rear springs (TMG40731) , Spax rear dampers, 3/4" antiroll bar and polyurethane bushes. The car actually handles really well, she drops into corners beautifully and is a joy to drive on country lanes. This is my 6th B and it drives nothing like any of them....its weird....I love it.

Can only assume that the V8/gearbox weight distibution combined with the 1" lowering makes the car handle completely differently. I can go comfortably round a corner at 70mph which I used to struggle at 50mph. All my other B's kind of skittered around corners, always feeling like they were going to spion or go straight on, this one corners.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2013 09:53AM by hirot.


DiDueColpi
Fred Key
West coast - Canada
(1259 posts)

Registered:
05/14/2010 03:06AM

Main British Car:
What if the Hokey Pokey really is what it's all about?

authors avatar
Re: Front Springs
Posted by: DiDueColpi
Date: December 31, 2013 05:32AM

Paul,
The original suspension geometry on the old B's isn't really all that bad.
Despite the complaints of many.
It's just old and worn. As the lovely Lynne says.
Put back to factory specs. it's really pretty good unless you're trying to race a newer VW golf or a Mazda MX5.
Or a Prius or a Nissan Pathfinder Chevy cavalier Ford Taurus etc.
Much can be done to get you up to speed so to say
There are largely two schools of thought on spring rate.
One says that enough rate to suspend the car is adequate. The suspension movement should be controlled by the shock absorbers.
The other says that the spring rate should dictate the attitude of the vehicle.
If I'm looking for the more comfortable ride, then head for the softer more compliant soft spring version. But beware that in a limited travel situation that the B provides, it can result in a very harsh environment at it's limits.
If it was my car, I would set up with a pretty strong front spring and a shock to control it. (I think that a shock should control the spring not the car). The front bushings should be solid or at least a hard urethane. A big ass sway bar 3/4 to an inch to give the rear end a chance to catch some pavement. And no sway bar at the rear with a solid axle. You will have enough trouble at the rear trying to hook up without throwing a sway bar into the mix.
Get your local frame shop to bend your rear axle to a 1-1.5 camber angle and you have a pretty good setup.
Some good old fashioned traction bars will help a lot in the straight line and add something that us old guys can relate to.
Spring clamps can be more stealthy and foreign approach to the younger crowd.
Paul, I am constantly getting told that I'm too old school.
That the digital age is upon us. But I constantly leave these guys in my dust.
I hold the current track record in every class that we have entered.
Possibly I'me missing something but who cares.
Cheers
Fred



pspeaks
Paul Speaks
Dallas, Texas
(698 posts)

Registered:
07/20/2009 06:40PM

Main British Car:
1972 MGB-GT 1979 Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: Front Springs
Posted by: pspeaks
Date: December 31, 2013 10:34AM

Thanks, I'm pretty old school too!


Paul


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