MG Sports Cars

Just finished taking out an IHTO, and going external on my 300 Buick with GM T5. I used the Nissan 3/4" bore slave with internal spring. Wow! I should have done this years ago. Lighter pedal with way smoother engagement.

I think I'm hearing it might be a good idea to replace my 7/8" bore non-spring CNC cylinder with something else. I've also thought of changing my -3 AN line to a -4 but I'm not sure it would make that much difference. Opinions please.


Thanks Mike, I'm rather proud of my linkage and throw-out arm; the bracket not so much, though it works ok, it's a bit ugly.

Paul



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2014 08:44PM by pspeaks.

Paul, Dorman part # CS37498 Rockauto.com for less than $10

Paul,
If you already have the parts, then I see no reason to change them.
The spring type slaves exist only to remove the need to adjust the clutch from time to time.
This lowers warranty claims for the OEMs dramatically at a very small cost per unit increase.
If a cable or mechanical self adjusting mechanism could be made reliably and cheaply. We would never have seen a hydraulic clutch.
Put a return spring on your current setup. And check the pedal free play every once in a while. Just like the old time mechanical linkages that we (most of us) are all used to. And your dancing in the rain.
As far as the -3 line. That's 3/16ths which is more than big enough for a 7/8ths slave.
If you're fighting a slow actuation then you have a much faster left foot than I do.
Cheers
Fred

Thanks for providing the part # Capt'n Been trying to decide what to use for a slave cyl and that looks perfect .
Hope You don't mind your idea being used on a Triumph. ;-)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2014 12:01PM by flyinlow.

Been quietly waiting for Mike to show off the pics of his latest tweek to his car. Did an outstanding job, as usual.

Mike, That is the H body Buick V6 bellhousing, originally cable clutch, pivot like late Ford. The best one to use behind a Buick V8. What throwout bearing are you using, GM T5 or Buick V6 original?

Thanks guys, it worked out well. The bearing and fork are S10 OE, cheap. I'm running a Tilton 74 series master 3/4" bore. It bolts right up to the late pedal box. Did have to fab a push rod. Mike

Hey Mike, Can you provide a arts ;list for that clutch actuating rod from your slave cylinder? Looks elegant and simple and I want to plagerize it!

I replaced my Mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing with a clutch fork and Wilwood pull type slave cylinder. I am using a Buick 215 bell housing and a T5 Transmission. The clutch fork has been cut off so it will fit in the transmission tunnel. With a MG clutch master it provides about 1/2" of pull which is plenty. Material from the clutch fork and bell housing needs to removed / ground away to provide clearance. The picture doesn't show the return spring I added. You will also replace the hydraulic fittings provided by Wilwood with ⅛” NPT to 4 AN 90° brass fittings.

Part Name - PN - Price - Source - Fits Vehicle Notes
Clutch Fork - 14550 - $29.79 - Rock Auto - 80 Camaro V6 229 cid - Dorman
Release Bearing - 908244- $22.89 - Rock Auto - 80 Camaro V6 229 cid - SKF Part Number N1488
Slave Cylinder - 260-1333 - $76.50 - Wilwood


Here is a link to a video showing the clutch in action.
[youtu.be]



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/26/2018 06:56PM by v8mgb.

More Pictures

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/20/2017 07:41PM by v8mgb.

More pictures

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Looks nice Jim! We're you having issues with your HTOB?

Yes the HTOB was releasing slow when the car was warm. I replaced the clutch master which had no impact. I haven't torn into the HTOB to see what was wrong. The first HTOB I installed lasted 10 years and I had it rebuilt by Mcleod as a preventive measure when I had the engine out for a paint job. The rebuild only lasted 3 driving seasons. Now if something goes wrong with the hydraulics I can make the repair without pulling the engine. The reliability on this set up still needs to be established, season one starts soon.

Good evening Gentlemen,

I'm inspired by this thread! Inspiration always leads to questions...

I have a 215 4-speed bell, mated with an adapter to a Ford Mustang V8 T5. I'll use a ford 10.5" clutch. I'm hoping I can stitch together a slave setup without TIG-welding my bellhousing.

Do GM clutch forks and T5 input shafts mate to Ford throwout bearings? I have tried to find OD measurements for TBs on the web, but haven't had luck. If they do, I think I can copy Jims setup exactly.

It looks like Mike's slave setup uses a fork with a 2-1 ratio with equal diameter slave cylinders.

Jim, does your cut Camaro fork have a 2-1 ratio as well? Same size master and slave?

I was admiring some Jeep forks on the web, and was wondering if they might work without mods:

[www.the-jeep-guy.com]

A few of them on that website appear to be 2-1, very short, and of a vintage that might share some dimensions with the Buick 215 (Jeeps had a v6 derived from the 215 for a while, I think).

Any advice on the right fork/slave/TB recipe for a Buick/Ford setup would be much appreciated.

Dave

Dave, The cable type clutch fork they use has the pivot ball on the opposite side from your 215. The Ford bearing retainer and throwout bearing has a larger diameter than the GM. You could use the cable type Ford fork and move the pivot to the opposite side. The same size master and slave works OK but a size smaller master will give an easier pedal and longer throw. This link may help:

[www.mgexp.com]

Quote:

I have a 215 4-speed bell, mated with an adapter to a Ford Mustang V8 T5. I'll use a ford 10.5" clutch. I'm hoping I can stitch together a slave setup without TIG-welding my bellhousing.

Are you married to the Ford clutch for some reason? You could use a GM bearing retainer on your Ford T5 and keep all the components GM. You'd need to find (or have one made) a disc that matches up to the Ford input shaft. Seems an easier way to go to me.

The S10 clutch fork uses the far side pivot but is NOT a cable piece as it has a dimple in the actuator end and no cable slot. This makes it perfect for a push cylinder. It is also quite short which is helpful in those close confines.

I'm using it with a standard (but modified) BOP bell and the S/C will be positioned between the tranny mounting ears, bolted to the bell using a 3/4" Isuzu slave. Flange mount. I added about 1" to the mount surface of the bell and a bit of metal where the pivot rod goes on the other side.

Jim