MG Sports Cars

With the new pilot bushing in place, my 3.5L Rover and T5 really like each other now. I assumed they would also jump right in the car together- NOT. The top of the trans is stopped by the trans tunnel while back of the trans hits the crossmember. Can't go up and can't go down. A friend suggested cutting out the crossmember which is spot welded in place and making a bolt in replacement to make the whole swap thing go easier. I really like this idea and found some pix on the INET by other swappers. Before cutting, welding, drilling etc. I thought I'd invite commentary. The original looks like 3 sections of thin wall square stock. Anyone know why 3 separate sections instead of just 1 that runs the full width. I thought perhaps they were meant to slide together for some reason.

Also, I could make my cut angled to follow the tunnel shape, just square or cut out the whole thing and use a single long piece. Recommendations?

So just to be clear, do you mean that the main body of your T5 transmission is hitting the tunnel at "A" and its tail section is hitting the welded in crossmember at "B"? I don't think that's typical at all for a Rover/T5 installation. Isn't it feasible to simply level your drivetrain to clear both these surfaces? The bolt-in transmission crossmember midway between A and B can be replaced with any sort of fabrication. I made one out of 1x2 box tubing.

Yes, just as you say on A & B - excellent pic - love the roto
Another restriction that prevented simply leveling was the motor mounts. The single bolt on each side, extending from the rubber, sticks out and wants to beat itself up against the frame. Lastly, with the power train in, the upper surface of the horizontal V-Legs of my hoist are higher than the bottom of the suspension arm. So, I had to lay a couple of 2X6s beneath each front wheel for clearance, which further aggrevated positioning.

That was my first attempt and I really didn't expect it to go in without a fight.

The other reason I like the cross member mod is that, I would like to have multiple engines I can swap quickly and simply unbolting it seems like it would make this easier.

Gary, it is not necessary to cut the crossmember. Nor in the opinion of many is it desirable. Your '78 is designed to accept that powertrain without modifications.

Now it may help you to elevate the rear of the car, but if it looks to you like cutting is required I would suggest that you are missing something else. Someone here can tell you what it is I have no doubt.

Jim

Quote:

Your '78 is designed to accept that powertrain without modifications.....

True, with the notable exception for the T5 xsmn requiring some metal relief at point 'A'.
If you really need to modify the xsmn xmbr, consider Bill Guzman's approach

There are lots of alternatives.

Have a look in the Photo Gallery for removable slam panels. That's the panel where the bonnet latch is. Jim Stuart pioneered the idea of making that part into a bolt-on, so that the engine/transmission assembly can be brought into the bay at a lower angle.

Alternatively, you might consider setting the transmission more-or-less in place and then lowering the engine in to meet it. That's what I prefer. (I don't own a hoist. Instead, I use a ratcheting trailer tie-down looped over a rafter. The aluminum V8 is so light...) I don't remove the transmission when I pull the engine, and I don't disturb the engine to pull the transmission or service the clutch. I can get away with that because my home-made transmission tunnel is oversize, but I didn't modify my center crossmember at all.

I have the same set up, a 3.5 L with a Ford T5 in a 1978 B. I had \the transmission tunnel (At Point 'A') heightened by 1.5 inches for things to fit. This was accomplished by welding in a box insert, and seems preferable to cutting structural cross brace at point 'B'. Granted, I am also using engine mounts that move things a bit back than typical.

Don't cut it! Unnecessary surgery.

The box insert mentioned by John is needed for the Rover LT77 tranny, but not the T-5. The Buick/Rover & T-5 (mine's a GM T-5) only requires a bit of massaging with a 4lb hammer at point A. Not much. I put the rearend on jackstands & used a hoist with fabric belt thru the intake manifold to slide for the angle, then used a floor jack under the tranny. Put the engine/trans in & out 3 times by myself. Piece o' cake. If your T-5 has that extra flnage at the bottom to bolt the torque bar to (Camaro/Firebird) you can remove that for additional clearance. I didn't, but it would have helped.

Sooooo, do you think a 4# hand sledge will help squeeze a Ford AOD into a 71? LOL

I cut the support under the radio, hammered the tunnel up, and welded the support back together (only somewhat shorter). This was easy but maybe not necessary...

Never owned a BV8, but typically the Rover with SU carbs was installed with the engine sloping down towards the rear. It's that way in the SD1, and in my Lightweight.
If you're trying to install it level that may be part of the problem.

Ivor