MG Sports Cars

I have another suggestion.

We are talking about a dedicated drag car & a SBC engine. What about the tried & true, drag race standard? A motor plate & mid-plate.

For a dedicated drag race car it would be worth considering tying the block into the body in such a way as to increase rigidity in the body. For this, solid mounts and front/rear mount plates would be a reasonable approach. Spreading the load over a large number of fasteners would make sense also.

But the car in question, an MGB-GT is already remarkably stiff, and you can over-engineer a car as easily as over-building it. Sometimes it just makes more sense to use the simple solution.

Jim

WOW!!

Thanks for all the input guys :)

Please keep adding comments, advice and pictures. This is all very interesting for me right now. I like the idea of the Hurst mount as its a simple starting point that would give me some room to utilise the mounts in the engine block to add another point of support.

When i eventually drop the engine in to the MGB I want to fit the gearbox onto its existing rear mount so the drive shaft position etc is correct. Then I can see where the mount needs to go on the rails ready for initial cutting and welding to take place so the engine can be rested on the rails. I will also want to solid mount the engine as per the old Rover V8. I will re fit the existing steady bars that I have on the Rover V8. They are fitted to the front and rear of the passenger side cylinder head. One of the bars is fitted into the inner wing frame and the rear one is connected to the inner bodywork platform where the brake servo used to be. Both are quite solid locations and neither of these mounts have distorted anything where they are fitted which I am happy with. I am still looking forward to seeing how the 383 motor will end up regarding torque and horsepower when it eventually ends up with nitrous only like I used to run the old Rover before the blower was fitted. At the moment the plan is to build a 383 stroker engine with compression ratio around 11.5-12.0:1 for initial testing.
Thanks for all the comments guys. Much appreciated.
Regards
Perry

Perry, Here is the Speedway Motors mount:

[www.speedwaymotors.com]

Perry, I think you really will be impressed with the power. So, don't neglect to use doubler plates where applicable to spread the load out over a larger area, and bear in mind that solid mounts tend to localize vibration and create metal fatigue. I expect you are more likely to see this type of failure than overstress failure. Plan accordingly. Best of luck and we all really look forward to seeing what you can do with the new powerplant.

Jim

Perry, Speedway Motors also has the rear bellhousing mounts:

[www.speedwaymotors.com]

Many thanks to both of you "Jim's" :)

I will be ordering those very cheap parts tomorrow guys !!

Regards

Perry

Perry, just be aware that the use of a bellhousing mount may mean having to cut away sheet metal to fit in the mounts. With solid mounts those may work as they appear to go down pretty low.

Jim

The motor mounts are now on their way from the USA !!

They will arrive during my summer holiday so I may get some time to tinker and see how they will fit ;)

Regards
Perry

"You are wrong. Dead wrong".

That's possible but, why post these pictures on your build site that clearly shows crossmember mounts?

Quote:

"You are wrong. Dead wrong".

That's possible but, why post these pictures on your build site that clearly shows crossmember mounts?

The caption under the top picture you posted says "Ford crate engine dressed-up for installation." That was a staged shot for Fast Cars to use in promotional material. As soon as that shot was made, the engine was removed and the crossmember shipped to a customer. Nothing in the caption says it was MY crossmember. That shot was included on my build site solely to showcase the engine.

The second picture you posted clearly shows a frame mount. Look closer! The picture below, and others on the build site, give a clear view of the frame mounted motor mounts. I didn't build it myself, but I'm not completely ignorant of the process.

"The second picture you posted clearly shows a frame mount. Look closer! The picture below, and others on the build site, give a clear view of the frame mounted motor mounts. I didn't build it myself, but I'm not completely ignorant of the process."

I think YOU should look closer. The second picture clearly shows the mount ON THE CROSSMEMBER, not on the frame rails like the other picture you posted, whoever actually owns the car in that picture. You? Someone else? Regardless, since you didn't build it yourself, all bets are off. I'd rather discuss this with the person that ACTUALLY built the car, not someone that posts pictures of their car and then retracts saying that it's not ACTUALLY my car.

JWD - you can debate all you want, but the car is Dan's and he is extremely familiar with it - as are several of us - as in we've seen it up close and personal - multiple times. His engine mounts are, indeed, frame mounts.

Quote:

The second picture clearly shows the mount ON THE CROSSMEMBER, not on the frame rails like the other picture you posted...

Wrong again.

I stand corrected. My apologies. Maybe those that post pics. on the build of their cars should only post pics. of that actual car.

Maybe you should go start your own site so you can make up the rules. Until then, why don't you try mixing a little tact in with the knowledge that you obviously have? I love people that "apologize", and then follow it directly with just one more shot. Gotta have the last word. So, to summarize: Dan and many others have frame mounted V8 engines and have zero issues with failure based upon frame rail strength.

I made 16ga "caps" that I welded over the frame rails in the area where I welded my frame mounts. Thought a little extra strength couldn't hurt. I've also seen a few guys use torque arms on the engine that limits force transmitted through the mounts.