MG Sports Cars

Hi everyone, I am interested in buying a MG (B/C) GT to swap something into. I have considered an LS1, but have decided that would be a bit more work than I would want. That leads me to a 5.0L ford with alloy heads. However, then I remembered that I have a fairly low mileage Toyota 1mzfe from a camry in my shed. This motor can be fitted for rwd use with a Tacoma transmission. Its a front sump 60 degree v6 with DOHC heads. So what do you guys think? Is this something would maybe be somewhat easily doable? Thanks, Jordan

Depends on how wide the engine is Jordan, as well as how compact the exhaust. You might want to take some measurements. Pay particular attention to the steering shaft, oil filter location, and basically anything else that sticks out. It might work OK.

I believe that it is 22" -23" inches wide at the widest part of the cylinder heads. I would most likely need to relocate the oil filter as I think that it is on the drivers side towards the rear. The exhaust is somewhat close to the block, but it sweeps more forward, so it might not hit the steering.

I think your biggest hurdle wil be the front sump. I have experiance with dropping a front sump motor in a B and it has it issues. NOTHING that can not be over come.

Ok so I did a little checking and here is what I got.

without the exhaust manifolds, but including the alt. 26" wide with about 3-4" bias on the drivers side.
the exhaust is actually swept towards the rear and adds about 2 inches on each side.
26" tall from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the intake.
head to head width is 22"
There is 8" from the rear of the oil pan lower section to the rear of the engine.

I have found a 69 CGT about fours hours from here that is in need of restore, but is rust free. I was wondering if that would help the oil pan issue because I read elsewhere on this site that the C crossmember is lower and further to the rear?

Thanks, Jordan

Jordan,

Anything is possible BUT your going to spend less time building something that the path has been paved. From what you have posted, my bet is your going to find a GM 60 degree, the BOP/R V8 AND the Ford V8 to be less time and hassle.

Your starting with the idea that "I have this engine sitting around see... And its free, so therefore, the conversion is going to be cheap." This is the type of conversion that usually ends up more expensive than others and/or never completed due to many issues with time, money, fitment or skill.

Unless your rebuilding an engine and spending a few thousand extra to do that, a conversion usually runs about $4-5K in various parts and on that, I give the motor a price of $500 so if you have a motor thats common and does not need lots of extra items to fit it, your now down to $3500-$4500.... alternator conversion, belt system with pulleys, water pump that functions with the system, a flywheel that works with the box of choice, clutch, clutch actuation, driveshaft, shifter, 5 qts oil, filter, filter relocation kit in some cases, coolant hoses and sometimes radiator, radiator fan that fits the MGB body/radiator, building headers- no one makes flanges most likely for that motor, so you may be on your own and so on. It all adds up.

Now for the items I like to look for...
Start at the center of the crankshaft pulley- front edge.
From this point, measure downwards too see how much room is required underneath this.
Measure from this point upwards.
Measure from this point to the centrepoint of the shifter(where its going to come out of the hole)
Measure from this point to the edge of the starter, header or whatever is going to stick out causing the engine to potentially shift to one side or


Now a few generic problems I see:
FWD engines have t eh intake turned around backwards and with any OHC type engine, this may not be easy or even possible to turn around but maybe its okay that way?
SOHC and DOHC heads are tall. This is going to potentially require the engine be set lower than stock.
The oil pan is going to require the opposite, raise the engine higher.
Truck 'boxes commonly require the shifter to be further forward then an automobile so you need to measure from that crankshaft pulley to the shifter to make sure it doesn't end up underneath the radio.
Measure the Tacoma 'box width and bellhousing size (presuming a cltuch, flywheel and bell can be found to fit with the starter and engine bolt pattern)

While your at it, figure in the purchase of a wiring harness and reprogramming. There are a few systems that do not require programming and there are many that do.

Be realsitic. I would be a neat project but your gong into unknown territory. If you have the time, money, patience and skill then anything can be done.

Whatever you decide, keep us posted here. This board has great interest in all types of MG conversions.

-BMC.

Quote:

without the exhaust manifolds, but including the alt. 26" wide with about 3-4" bias on the drivers side.

Sounds like possible steering shaft interference problems.