MG Sports Cars

Hello, all!

I am a Brit car nut from way back, and have the tow receipts to prove it. You know the Lucas motto: "Gentlemen get home before dark."

I also veered into the Cobra replica world for a while as a Superformance dealer in the mid-90's before the Shelby lawsuits.

I like all that power. Addicted, actually.

So now I'm pondering the merger of the two worlds, and what better way than a V8 B?

But before I start the process---I live in the Dominican Republic, and have to import everything, every nut and bolt, which requires a different level of sourcing--- I want to see what is in store.

A asked Mantell Motorsports about buying a manual with suggestions and was told that was not an option.

So I wonder if anyone here can help.

Does anyone have a Mantell install manual, or a complete copy of one, they could sell?

Let me know!

Robert Cooper
Jarabacoa, Dominican Republic

Not sure that is legal. Copyright laws & all, ya know.

Don't think you would really need it, personally. There is a wealth of information here and on MGExperience, and are we to assume from your background that you are a Ford enthusiast? You don't necessarily have to go the MM route if so, the FCIFS is another option. Or homebrew. Or if it doesn't have to be blue oval that opens up a lot of other possibilities.

Jim



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/13/2021 02:02PM by BlownMGB-V8.

FCIFS?

I'm a Ford guy, my dad was a Ford dealer back in The Day, but agnostic on this V8 for the project.

My preference is a conversion kit that has the bugs worked out.

I'm cruising the conversion threads, but nothing like a manual for insight.

Well, I'll say it again. Take a look at the 300 Buick. Easiest, cheapest, and most bang for the buck. I've run everything from a low compression 215 to an injected, blown and intercooled 340 as well as building the 455 powered MG Roadmaster and I can tell you that the 300 is the ideal engine for the MGB, especially post '74-1/2. I'm presently running a bone stock iron head 2bbl 300 and no it doesn't have the power of the 340 but it makes for a wonderful driver. I really do like it. Having said that, I have a stroker 300 on the build stand which should go in maybe next year some time. It gets all the goodies. 346cid, Carillo rods, Wiseco pistons, roller cam and rockers, TAPerformance/Rover heads, beehive springs, titanium valves, etc. Plus an underslung blower. It will be roughly equivalent to my long rod 340 but smaller externally.

But that isn't why I recommend the 300. First you can buy them cheap, I paid $350 last year for the engine that is in my car now. It had 50K miles on it and pulled a perfect leak-down. The install can use all the Rover conversion bits but the bellhousing costs around $100, it uses a SBC mini starter you can get anywhere for $75, and the late engine compartment was made for it. Well, the Rover actually but it's now been proven that the 300 even fits the early CB cars without cutting the hood. For the late cars it's a drop in swap.

Guys worry about the weight. The iron head motor with the cast iron intake weighs 50lbs more than with alloy heads and intake which isn't much. It weighs 100lbs more than the original B series motor. My car has dead neutral handling so I don't want to hear comments like it'll be nose heavy or it will plow, that can be tuned out by anyone who is the least bit competent. And if you feel the need, stiffer springs are readily available and Triumphs are a ready source for spring spacers.

Best of all it's the most well proven MG conversion on the planet, primarily in the 215/Rover form and the necessary bits are available everywhere. The 300 version has the added advantage of being universally known for reliability. This is known as the Dauntless family of Buick engines including the Buick V6 and much of that reputation was built on the shoulders of the 300. The key to this reliability is the iron block.

Do a little comparison and see what it favors. BTW FCIFS is Fast Cars IFS. Pricey but well regarded. Also there's a book called How to give your MGB V8 power that you might want to look at.

Jim



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2021 10:24AM by BlownMGB-V8.

BlownMGB-V8: thanks for the detailed tips. I will definitely do the proper research. I just bought the book for my Kindle Fire. I hope the wifely babe does not catch on to my reading material. ;-)

I'm curious because a web search has not shown much info: does any company build performance crate motors based on the 215? Especially with larger displacement? That's the main reason I have steered clear of the 215. I'd like to get close to the 275-300hp/tq range.

My challenge is shipping into the DR. Not so easy. And expensive. So I'm looking fr a one-stop solution.

If you want to go with the aluminum motor you should probably stick with the later Rover V8, especially to get into the power band you want. OTOH, I'm sure Jim Weise would be quite happy to build and ship you a nice 300 that would do everything you want and be more reliable in the bargain.

Home Page:
[www.trishieldperformance.com]

Jim

I have witnessed Mike Moor's Buick 300 dyno just over 300hp to the wheels. As Jim said the 300 is an evolved 215.

Performance V8 crate engines kinda distills down to SBF or GM LS.

I was just wondering, would you be better off trying to import a completed conversion?

@Blown: Thanks for the link and advice. Muchas Gracias!

@Spitfire: I have pondered a completed conversion and would prolly save some $$$ going that route. But the build process also appeals to me, you know, "built, not bought." That said, if the right one at the right time at the right price came available, I would definitely consider that option.

I am into Williams "MGB V8 Power" book, and he also makes an excellent case for a Rover/Buick aluminum engine. I am definitely leaning in that direction since There may be some Rover engines to be found down here. A 4.0 or 4.2 seems interesting. He also suggests a new RV8-ready body shell, but I can see how that would get spendy in a hurry.

A new V8 ready bodyshell is not needed & over the top unless one has that kind of money to throw at it. The amount of work to be done will vary some depending on what year car you start with.

The Buick/Rover conversion has been done sooo many times over the years, there is nothing in that book that is not already available on the internet. That road has been well traveled.

@MGBV8: I had an excellent conversation with Mark @ D&D, and he offered some excellent common-sense advice and suggestions I may go with, all based on their extensive experience.

Now I start looking for a 77-80 B...