MG Sports Cars

I posted this on MG Experience but got no responses. I hope it's not a "what brand of oil should I use" type of question. Let's see...

I have an unknown fuel pump (labeling is long gone) on my 215 roadster conversion. It's really loud. Have long considered replacing it with something that might be quieter. A couple of nights ago, I turned the key and the pump gave out a distressing wheezing sound like a sick cat. After about 5 seconds, it came back with its usual loud hum-buzz thing. Made me uneasy. Made me a bit more motivated to find something else.

What might you guys recommend? 215/3.5 with an Edelbrock 4bbl. Not running a fuel pressure gauge, so I have no idea what the pump is putting out but the car generally has run well.

Thanks in advance.

JohnD

John,
I would suggest a universal 12v, 3-6psi fuel pump from Amazon. $20 or less.

The Edelbrock MIcro is pretty quiet, and makes around the right pressure. [www.carid.com]

I would always run a pressure regulator with gauge. A 5psi feed is the starting point for carb tuning.

If you have SUs, they want 2.6psi, so a lower pressure pump..

Ivor

Thanks. Any idea of any of these pumps are capable of sufficient lift to be able to mount it in the engine bay instead of back next to the tank?

In general you want an electric fuel pump as close to the fuel source as possible. It should also be mounted below the lowest fuel level.
This is to prevent vapor lock in the supply line.
A fuel pressure regulator is also a good idea. Mount it as close to the carb as is reasonable.
The best style of regulator is a "return" type. These regulators return the excess fuel back to the tank, ensuring a cool, vapor free fuel supply to the carb. They also extend pump life as the fuel doesn't deadhead and heat up in the pump.
A pressure gauge mounted at the regulator lets you set and monitor your regulator.
Never mount a fuel pressure gauge inside the cab.
The gauges are fragile and prone to leakage. I don't leave a fuel gauge permanently mounted anywhere. Use it to set up pressure and check occasionally. Then put it away and plug the port.
Lastly install a fuel pump cut off switch. This shuts down the pump in case of an accident.
Any pump that looks like the old Carter pumps with the motor sticking out of it is going to be noisy. So pick something more modern like the Holley mighty mite. Clones of it are for sale cheap on Ebay. But buy 2 because they contain chineseium.

Live like you mean it
Fred

Fuel pumps push better than they pull, but I have mounted them in the engine bay with no problems. Are you going to put the replacement pump where the current one is?

I have had reliability problems with aftermarket electric pumps, with the exception of Facet cylindrical pumps. They are quiet, come in may different pressure ratings, and are prefect for a 215 V8. I have two in parallel for my 302 to get sufficient fuel delivery...

They are a direct descendent of the Bendix pumps and were standard equipment on classic, Ferraris, Maseratis, Alfa Romeos, etc. I have two 30 year old Facet pumps on my two Alfas I restored 30 years ago and they are prefect. One Alfa actually came with the original 1959 Bendix pump and it still worked once I removed the gelled fuel with lacquer thinner. These pumps are designed without any rubber seals.

The Carter electric pump is also very reliable but very noisy. It was developed for the military in the 1950's and like a modern fuel pump the motor is immersed in the gasoline; it also has no rubber seals.

I like the advice of having a fuel return. Is there an "easy" way to do this on a V8 conversion without dropping the tank and drilling into the tank for a new fitting connection?

The "easy" way is to return the fuel through evaporative port on the tank. This requires a later model car with an evaporative system.

Adding a back-up "A-B" fuel pump is always a good ideal.

Thanks all for the recommendations and advice.
I've started having occasional stumbling and stalling when I come down to idle at a light or try to pull away. Not consistent and does not seem to be related to ambient temperature. Because it feels like a fuel starvation symptom, I'm wondering about something clogging the vapor recovery system (if there still is one). I am going to also try a new fuel pump. Was going to use 2 cheap ones and like the idea of mounting them both in case one forgets how to speak Chinese. I also believe I have couple of "square" Facet pumps I took out of my Spridget race car when I switched to a Carter pump. Not sure of their psi output.

Jim, thanks for the great diagram. Questions:
1. What is the 90' barbed reducer for?
2. Why a Y-connector with shut-off valves?
3. Is the 1/4-3/8 adapter after the tank because the OEM fuel supply was plumbed with only 1/4 tubing?

Thanks in advance for the help!

JohnD

FWIW I've detailed my setup on MGE Swaps. Bosch EFI pump mounted where the SU usually sits through Series100 line to fuel rail and return via an adjustable regulator. My return line needs adjusting because at present it enters the tank at the top; it needs an inner tube to dump wasted fuel to the bottom of the tank. Others prefer in-tank pump arrangements.