MG Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" and Costello V8s

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MGBV8
Carl Floyd
Kingsport, TN
(4511 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 11:32PM

Main British Car:
1979 MGB Buick 215

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Re: True bolt-in independent rear suspension
Posted by: MGBV8
Date: April 17, 2009 09:50PM

"Add about 25 lbs per corner for a good light wheel/tire combo"

Good Luck with that! ;)


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6468 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

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Re: True bolt-in independent rear suspension
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: April 19, 2009 12:42AM

I thought you might have some insights on that Carl. I know there are 11 lb wheels available, not sure about the tires.

jim


rficalora
Rob Ficalora
Willis, TX
(2764 posts)

Registered:
10/24/2007 02:46PM

Main British Car:
'76 MGB w/CB front, Sebring rear, early metal dash Ford 302

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Re: True bolt-in independent rear suspension
Posted by: rficalora
Date: April 19, 2009 09:18AM

This thread on an integra BBS has tire weights of a bunch of tires. Based on this and assuming something wider than 225's (which is as wide as I saw in their list) says the tires will weigh somewhere in the upper 20s to upper 30's per tire.

[www.team-integra.net]


MGBV8
Carl Floyd
Kingsport, TN
(4511 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 11:32PM

Main British Car:
1979 MGB Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: True bolt-in independent rear suspension
Posted by: MGBV8
Date: April 19, 2009 10:00AM

I have my doubts about the durability of an 11 pound wheel that is mainly used on the street.

The Toyos that I like tend to be lighter than real street tires & anything in a 17" size is going to weigh 24-25 lbs. just for the tire. As Rob pointed out, most realistic street rubber will be heavier.

Did we ever decide on a wheel/tire size?


MGBV8
Carl Floyd
Kingsport, TN
(4511 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 11:32PM

Main British Car:
1979 MGB Buick 215

authors avatar
Re: True bolt-in independent rear suspension
Posted by: MGBV8
Date: April 19, 2009 11:01AM

A 255/50-16 tire will weigh 27-30 lbs. The 16 X 7, 7.5, or 8" wheel may range from 10-30+ lbs. One we can afford that will hold up, probably 20-25 lbs.

So, I think 50 lbs per corner is more realistic.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(6468 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: True bolt-in independent rear suspension
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: April 19, 2009 11:41AM

Edit: (..ever decide on a tire?) Not really. The choice is pretty wide open though since the wheelwells are cut out on the Roadmaster. I've found 315's will work on mine with the right wheels, something with about 6-1/2" of backspacing. And they were cheap. On the GT we're only limited by a maximum tire diameter of about 26" and that roughly translates to a 335/35-17 . I think we had decided a 275 was a good option awhile back. As for the wheels, realistically they will probably be heavier than that. My old 14" Centerlines are 11 lbs and have been plenty durable and strong, but 17" will probably be heavier. There's a lot of variation in wheel weights though and almost nobody publishes weights, which makes it real hard to find a light wheel. You have to research the construction methods and carefully read the claims for "strongest and lightest" and even that's not enough. But, I'm almost ready to call Greg and I have high hopes for his new design if he's still doing it. As for the tires, maybe that is where I got that 25 lb figure Carl, or maybe it was from weighing one of my old threadbare TA's. I know there's a lot of variation in tire weights too and those seem pretty light. Doesn't it seem a little odd that an old 50 series tire on an old-tech rim would be lighter than a 35 series on a modern rim? Aren't we moving backwards a little here? But, no matter. In the end a guy has to run what he can afford, can obtain, and works for him and our choices will all be different.

So on the bottom line, if the rims are 15 lbs and the tires are 35 then a rework of the unsprung weight proportions gives different numbers. Going through it again, just from memory, figuring 50 lbs for wheel and tire and half the 201# stock unsprung weight or a total of 151# per rear wheel and a 2400# car I come up with 15.9 as a ratio for one wheel or 7.94 for both. Then with the same 50# plus 35# for 85# per wheel I get 28.2 and 14.1, which I think is still going to be enough to feel the difference. It won't affect acceleration and braking the way lighter wheels and tires will, but it will affect ride and roadholding, perhaps profoundly. Lets not forget that 8" of vertical travel. If you drive rough roads and hills very much that is going to really, really get noticed. And that is dropping a whopping 66 pounds per wheel! How much does it cost to lose about 20 lbs total with a Currie alloy center housing for the 8" Ford axle? We're dropping over 3 times that on each side. That makes the cost analysis begin to look a whole lot more attractive, and of course there's a whole lot more to it than that.

I think we are going to be pleasantly surprised by the ride when we get the Roadmaster going. But is that a good thing? I'm not so sure. It may start rumors and speculation concerning the other end of the car.

Jim



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2009 11:43AM by BlownMGB-V8.
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