MG Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" and Costello V8s

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relative4
Billy Andrews
Denver, CO
(55 posts)

Registered:
11/25/2008 02:28PM

Main British Car:
'80 MGB Rover 3.5

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Brake booster
Posted by: relative4
Date: May 14, 2009 09:49AM

Now that I'm test driving my new MGB 3.5, I see why some people have disconnected their brake boosters. That pedal is wicked squashy, nothing like in my stock B. Rather than disconnect the booster entirely, is it possible to step down the vacuum to levels closer to those generated by the 4-banger? Some sort of converter to insert in the hose?


302GT
Larry Shimp

(241 posts)

Registered:
11/17/2007 01:13PM

Main British Car:
1968 MGB GT Ford 302 crate engine

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Re: Brake booster
Posted by: 302GT
Date: May 25, 2009 01:47PM

Have you modified the brakes with larger calipers? If not, then the stock booster should perform the same as it did in the 4 cylinder car (assuming the brakes are bled properly, and the rear drum brakes are adjusted properly). You can also try a low pressure check valve in the front brake line which reduces the running clearance between the pads and disk, and so reduces pedal travel.


Moderator
Curtis Jacobson
Portland Oregon
(4577 posts)

Registered:
10/12/2007 02:16AM

Main British Car:
71 MGBGT, Buick 215

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Re: Brake booster
Posted by: Moderator
Date: May 25, 2009 02:57PM

Quote:
You can also try a low pressure check valve in the front brake line which reduces the running clearance between the pads and disk, and so reduces pedal travel.

Good call! Lots of us are using some sort of external "residual pressure valve" for this effect. If you're interested in pursuing the idea further, use this website's search feature because you'll find lots of comments and pictures. I'll attach one example here. The blue check-valve is a Wilwood 2psi residual pressure valve for disc brakes and the red one is the 10psi version you'd use for drum brakes.

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