Triumph Sports Cars

First, a fix for the lower steering bushing. The original is destined for failure, generally cut in two by the firewall. Here's a cheap easy fix. I used a chunk of 2" diameter plastic stock I had lying around but just about anything will work, even oak. It can be drilled on a drillpress with a forstner bit, or freehanded with your trusty drill motor. 3/4" diameter hole, then bolted to the firewall. Better than New.



Next, for the Buick V6 swap using the 2bbl engine, the Edelbrock foam element air filter sits too close to the firewall and interferes with the fresh air plenum. Here's the fix.







Jim

Finally, a shot of the engine compartment with the fresh air plenum in place:



I think that worked out rather well. Next, I obtained an OEM shifter and will be trying to make it work. The lower arm needs moved to the opposite side and lengthened, and it needs switched for back-up lights, and park/neutral start. That may be a little tricky. First, the GM shifter console:




Next the OEM console:



Then the works, OEM on the left. The GM unit is facing the wrong way:



Jim

OK I've not been happy with the shifter. The factory one has no switches and is gated for a 3 speed. 2 strikes. The old one is ugly and gated for a 3 speed. 2 strikes again. I had a 4 speed shifter, NOS on the shelf and it looks good, but it's too tall, has no lights or switches and is hard to match to the console. 3 strikes. So I found a console and shifter out of a 2000 Cadillac Catera that just might do the trick.



As you can see, with just a little trimming of the lower corners of the heater surround it's a pretty nice fit. The length is right, and the brake and shifter are in the right place. This is just mocked up and the fit will be more precise when finished, plus I have a much better wraparound to use. But I think it compares very well to the original. It even has cup holders!

Now the downside. For some unknown reason, despite having a 4 speed auto in the car it came out of, and having a 4 speed indicator, the shifter is gated as a 3 speed. There are only two possible reasons I can come up with. I broke an ear off the base plate and grabbed another one to replace it with so maybe they were different despite coming from the same cars, or maybe more likely, Cadillac might have decided it was better for the driver to let the onboard computer manage shifts between first and second. So why the 4 indicator lights? Well, here comes the rest of the story.

You may recall that a couple or three decades ago Cadillac became enamored of LED's for lighting. They were in the vanguard on LED 3rd brake lights, and quickly adapted them to the rest of the car so it really should come as no surprise to find them in the shifter indicator and illumination. But what did come as a surprise is just how deeply embedded they have become. If you're used to a single bulb that serves as illumination and gear indicator by the simple expedient of a moving mask, prepare yourself for a shock. The Caddy indicator has no less than 14 bulbs, 7 or 8 wires feeding them, and a microprocessor! It uses a digital input signal on 4 data lines to tell the processor which gear indicator bulb to light! Obviously this signal comes from the vehicle's computer, working in conjunction with transmission control and I'm guessing that it has the capability not only to tell you which gear you selected, but to indicate which gear the transmission is actually in at any given time, meaning that it could tell you when it decides to shift up from 1st to 2nd, not a bad reason for the extra light even if you can't shift it yourself, especially if you are busily trying to convince your customers that they've invested their money wisely.

But that presents a bit of a problem for me. Despite the good looks and good fit, I'm back to 2 strikes for the wrong gate and lack of easily adapted illumination and switching. But a solution is possible, if not exactly easy. The lower arm must be lengthened anyway to match the 700r4 linkage, and the gate can be touched up to match the tranny's shift pattern without too much trouble I expect. But what of the lights and switches?

It turns out that I have, stuffed way back in one of the parts cabinets a bag of old 2nd hand 10mm diameter 3-wire proximity sensors. With a suitable mask these make wonderful solid state switches and are compact enough to perhaps fit the needed ones in for the 4 data lines and the ignition interlock and back-up lights. Relays will have to be provided for those last two, but that shouldn't present a serious obstacle as long as the prox will handle the current to drive the relay.

So as such matters usually go, what started out looking like a wonderfully simple solution has in fact become wonderfully complicated. But at least it will look nice, the wife will like it, and in the end I guess that's really what matters.

Jim

Are you going to hook up the rear AC vents?

Nah, can't see the point in it. I left the duct at the yard anyway. But, if there's any cold air gets under the console that's where it'll come out.

I got 3 pieces of the carpet glued down and it's starting to look better. The proxes worked as expected and I have to make final adjustments there and connect the wires. Still some fitting and trimming to do and then tint work before I move on to the seats. I'll try to get a photo or two in a day or so.

Jim

OK, here are some photos. First, the completed shifter. One photo is dark so the lights will show up both at the proxes and the shift indicator.





The shifter is in 1st gear as shown by the indicator and two proxes are lit up, controlling the data lines to the indicator processor.

Next, the assembled console.



The fit and match is good and it looks right at home there. Future improvements include the new seat covers, steering wheel, door seals, and a radio. Then perhaps sometime in the spring Edith will buy a top for it. But I'm finished until after Christmas.

Jim

Got some seats.









These are electric seats out of a late model Nissan Maxima. I had to cut one foot off each seat for them to fit in the car. Looks like the other 3 will bolt in and I'll have to weld a tab for the 4th, or I may get creative so that they will bolt into the stock holes. Right now they're just sitting in there.

JB

Jim,

I used to have one of those air cleaners on my old S10. They are quite restrictive.

Well, since it's Edith's car and it's the only air filter that fits I guess it'll have to stay. The 2bbl carb is kinda restrictive too.

JB

It is really looking good. I like the seats.
You must have lots of time to work on your own stuff now that Pete had the Roadmaster.

Steve

Funny you should say that, I just got done milling the top of the Star Wars air cleaner for the MGB-Roadmaster! But I do need to sort of kick it into gear. Lots to do before the summer meet.

JB

The seats are in, and work pretty well too. But it's a good thing they're for Edith and not me, because I'd be taking them back out to remove some of the padding. I think she'll like them though. I have 2 wires that still need a switch attached to them for the seat heat and the inertia reels for the seat belts need to be re-attached before I'm done. I'd have taken another photo but you really can't see anything different from when the seats were just sitting in the car so I'm not sure there's a point in it. Maybe after the belts go in.

That leaves the steering wheel, door seals, a few trim pieces of carpet, and a new top and the car is ready to drive.

JB

The seats were just too thick so I got down the old TR7 seat frames and put the Nissan foams and seat covers on the TR7 frames. First one was difficult with plenty of mistakes, 2nd one was easy. the headrest mount unbolted from the Nissan frame and with some simple mods slipped right into the TR7 headrest post. No electric, but much better. Sprayed the door panels gray, swapped out the inner and outer tie rod ends (be careful if you do this, the nuts can be easily stripped on the outers) and put anti-squeal shims under the brake pads, a tremendous improvement. New tires tomorrow. I think I'll figure out some way to put a steering damper on it.

JB

Jim, Fiero and VW beetle had steering dampers. Larry Shimp put one on his MGB. [forum.britishv8.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2011 12:23AM by mgb260.

Got the new tires on this morning and asked them to pick the two "roundest" ones and put them on the front. The shimmy is gone!!! Though there is still a hint of it when lightly braking from moderate speed. I still plan to fit the damper. Bought one from Amazon, the shipping was more than the damper. Let you know when it comes in if it's usable. I'll try to ask Larry about his mounts.

JB

I sent you links to several different styles, some with eyelet ends, some with stud ends, One was a kit for a truck I think, then the VW one has a stud welded on at an angle. What kind did you order from Amazon?

Gabriel 14040 Steering Damper
$4.13, actually was $4.08 and $7.03 shipping charges. Doesn't come with the angled mounting brackets though.

JB

Jim , I made brackets for my IHC Scout (Jeep aftermarket damper). On the stud end, for steering tie rod, I used a piece of angle and U bolt. On the eye end I used 2 flat plates welded to DOM tube(ID same as fixed tie rod OD,rack housing for you) cut in half lengthwise. When you tighten the bolt through the eye, both pieces clamp the tie rod. Set middle of travel in straight ahead position. Length of travel of the Jeep stabilizer was perfect on the Scout. Basically have to be long enough when you turn all the way it doesn't top or bottom out.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/25/2011 12:01AM by mgb260.