dbeliveau Daniel Beliveau Manchester NH (33 posts) Registered: 07/18/2015 07:41PM Main British Car: 1972 Triumph Stag, 1972 Ford 302 1974 Jensen Healey, Lotus 907 stroked to 2.2 Ltr, |
Fuel tank re-sealers
HI,
Can anyone out there offer any information on fuel tank re-sealing kits? do they work? Do they stand up to Ethanol? Thanks, Dan |
kstevusa kelly stevenson Southern Middle Tennessee (985 posts) Registered: 10/25/2007 09:37AM Main British Car: 2003 Jaguar XK8 Coupe 4.2L DOHC/ VVT / 6sp. AT |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
FWIW, you can search this forum under "Fuel-gas tank sealer". there are 3 pages of articles. Maybe they will assist. Ethanol issue is also addressed.
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Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
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Orange Alpine Bill Blue (45 posts) Registered: 12/20/2010 07:36AM Main British Car: 1967 Sunbeam Alpine 2.5 Ford Duratec |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
My experience, POR15 used per instructions is okay.
The tanks (Sunbeam Alpine, two tanks) have been "wet" for eight years and they are fine. It is possible to look into the right hand tank, all you need is a flashlight, and it looks like it did when first coated. During that time I have used any available gasoline. Tend to not use 10% ethanol, but do not avoid it. Looking at Jim's photos of the Bill Hirsch mess, I can say it is nothing like the POR15 product and it would be a mistake to equate the two. Bill |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6468 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
I'd say avoid it if at all possible.
Jim |
Scott68B Scott Costanzo Columbus, Ohio (561 posts) Registered: 10/25/2007 11:30AM Main British Car: 1968 MGB GM 5.3 LS4 V8 |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
I had mine done with Red-Kote back in 2006. It's holding up really well. One of the reasons I like it is you can use Acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone to remove it if you need to. The only bad part was I didn't do it, I had it done and like just about everything else I've ever had done by someone else on my car, I wasn't satisfied with the job they did. There are places they missed. I'm planning on re-doing it when I put a new fuel pump in the tank.
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dbeliveau Daniel Beliveau Manchester NH (33 posts) Registered: 07/18/2015 07:41PM Main British Car: 1972 Triumph Stag, 1972 Ford 302 1974 Jensen Healey, Lotus 907 stroked to 2.2 Ltr, |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
Thanks for all your responses. I'll look at the previous posts. I'm leaning towards having a tank fabricated in stainless steel. Just not sure about making the sending unit work with a fabricated tank. Probably won't be an issue
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Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
That's what I'm going to do if I keep finding bits of the coating on the sock filter in the tank.
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tbo Tim Body St Thomas Ontario (221 posts) Registered: 01/27/2013 06:47PM Main British Car: 1954 Triumph TR2 stock 2 litre |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
I Did the tank on my TR2 many years ago with a product call sloshing compound witch is used on airplane tanks. I think I got it from the local airport and I've never had a problem since. Would this be different from what Jim Stabe used? AnybodyKnow? As I recall it was yellow Tim
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Jim Stabe Jim Stabe San Diego, Ca (829 posts) Registered: 02/28/2009 10:01AM Main British Car: 1966 MGB Roadster 350 LT1 Chevy |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
The stuff I used looked like milk and really penetrated small openings sealing the leaks. The pipe plug I had in for a drain had to be drilled out and retapped to a larger size, the plug was not moving. It just wouldn't stick to the flat surfaces.
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dbeliveau Daniel Beliveau Manchester NH (33 posts) Registered: 07/18/2015 07:41PM Main British Car: 1972 Triumph Stag, 1972 Ford 302 1974 Jensen Healey, Lotus 907 stroked to 2.2 Ltr, |
Re: Fuel tank re-sealers
I've decided to fabricate a stainless tank and use the top of the original tank to simplify the project. Tomorrow I've got to take some measurements to determine how I'm going to do this. Plan on centering the tank standing the spar up if there is room and maybe moving the battery to the trunk. I'll update when I get this figured out. If anyone is interested in the bottom 3/4 of a tank I'll have the the ability to cut break and weld more after I get it done. The cost would just have to cover materials, welding and shipping. I'll keep you guys updated as things progress. Nice forum keep up the good work.
Dan |