Triumph Sports Cars

Probably a silly question but can the engine and transmission be removed as one unit through the hood if I have the car up on jack stands? How did everyone else do it? I know the manual says to remove the transmission through the passenger side then lift out the engine. Also did everyone install the new engine and transmission as a unit or individually. Never done this so wondering what is easiest? Thanks



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/21/2016 07:19PM by ALV.

I have done it both ways on my TR4A with the stock engine. It is the same configuration as a TR6. i found it much easier to take the transmission out through the passenger compartment first, but you can bring it all out of the engine compartment. That would save removing all the interior pieces. You need help to do it that way though.

Thanks Dan what about when you installed the engine upgrade so did you install your v8 with the transmission attached?

I don't have a V8 in the TR4A. It is still a stock engine. On the TR7 we did, but that is totally different.

Okay thanks I was just kinda wondering how the process was with fitting a new custom engine in a car. I wonder for those using s t5 transmission if they found there was enough clearence to get the transmission bell housing past the fire wall without any modifications?

Al,
I have a 302 and a T5 in my TR6. I've put the engine and transmission in the car as a unit (and out of the car more times than I care to remember). You are going to have make modifications to the firewall to accept the T5 bellhousing. More than likely, you will want to set the engine back a little further than where the straight 6 was located. This will require cutting the battery shelf. T5 bellhousing is wider and taller than the stock trans so modifications will be needed there also.

Ed

It depends on what type of engine and transmission you are putting in your car.
A Ford small block with a T5 will require surgery.
I put a 2003 GM 3400 with an s10 bell housing and a Ford T5 and it did not require any surgery.
In fact I was able to use the original TR6 engine mounts.
What type of engine and transmission are you planning on using for your swap?

Cheers
Byron

I was going to use the Ford SVO 2.3l turbo I have it rebuilt and ready to go. The bell housing is from a 5.0 mustang. with an adaptor plate to run the bigger 11 inch clutch. I would like to avoid butchering the front end to much so I don't have to move any of the foot pedals. I would also like to avoid relocating the battery if possible. I know others have used this engine but with smaller 7.5 inch clutch I think.I think The bell housing is smaller on these??? So basically it is trial and error to get it to fit.

That is an excellent drive train.
You should be able to fit that in without any surgery.
You should be able to assemble the engine and transmission and put it in with a proper engine hoist and leveler bar.
On my car I was able to use the original transmission tunnel and I suspect that you might be able to also.

Cheers
Byron

That's good to hear Byron Thanks to everyone for their responses.

Have you talked to Dale?

[www.britishv8.org]

Yup he sent me an email with photos as some surgery in his experience was needed to modify the fire wall to clear the turbo exhaust. He is using the t5 with a 2.3l bell housing. He feels i will likely need to do some surgery with the 5.0 bell housing. Which I kinda expected. He also notes I probably will need to fabricate a new transmission tunnel which I also kinda expected. I discussed with a friend about welding in some bracing lengthwise along the length of the tunnel to add some rigidity to the frame and he will help me fabricate a new tunnel.

Figure I should just get on with it so started by drilling locator dowel holes in the hood mount hinge so I can get the hood alignment right later on. And so it begins!

That sounds good.
Now you are on the hook to post photos every so often.
Most of all have fun!!

Cheers
Byron

Well i got the engine and tranmission out all without too much fuss. There was one awkward moment where the darn engine wouldnt budge and it turned out i forgot to undo the battering ground cable, This did elicit some long stares from my assistsnt with an accompanying eye roll. Man Everyones a critic! Anyhow got the car up on stands and all looks good.

Dropped the drive shaft and have now removed the differential and replaced it with a nissan using the good parts kit. Test Fit was pretty good but there just wont be enough clearence for the drive shsft flange to turn without a bolt hitting the bottom edge of the drive tunnel support. So a bit of cutting is in order here. Im planning on using the nissan drive shaft as well. I wonder what others experience has been with the good parts differential and drive shaft clearence and alignment with the transmission. Goodparts does note that the differential flange has to be machined down to fit the stock TR6 drive shaft for clearence. I note that Derek Costello in the write up for his vehicle uses the Goodparts Diff with a T5. The picture of the diff looks like the flange is unmodified.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Al,

I have the Nissan R200 diff and Goodparts mounting kit that is connected to a T5. I originally had Richard modify the pinion flange to accept the TR6 driveshaft. Also bought the spacers from Goodparts to use the stock half shafts. I don't recommend going this route. The small TR6 driveshaft universal joint is not up to the task of handling the hp. Mine lasted about 2000 miles. Had a new drive shaft made with Spicer components. The half shafts have a couple of issues. Sliding splines that can bind and axle shafts that are fairly small diameter and can fail. Ended up purchasing the CV axles from Richard. Pricey but they are quality pieces.

Also had to cut the lower portion of the driveshaft tunnel to get access to the pinion flange bolts/nuts, but I don't think anything was required to be done to the pinion flange except modify it for the driveshaft. There is a raised boss on the top of the diff housing that needs to be ground down for clearance. I purchased my diff from Richard, so this work was already done.

Hope you are able to get it all sorted out.

Ed

Thanks Ed. I was able to enlarge the opening enough using a crowbar large c clamp and a heavy steel rod section with a lot of pounding on the lip of the tunnel i was able to generate enough room to use the drive shaft flange from the same q45 that i sourced the diff from. So got that all sorted. Cheers.