mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2461 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Mike, How is there room for the oil pump? I remember a post a while back about a special front cover with gerotor crank driven oil pump like later Buick/Rover. Found it: [www.racemate.com]
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/25/2013 11:15PM by mgb260. |
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
There isn't. It's going in the garbage. Oh well, I'll chalk it up to a good attempt.
I've been talking to mustang guys about doing that modification for quite a while, and no one mentioned anything about an oil pump. I should have pulled the old pan before I spent the time on the new one. If that's the worst mistake I make, I'll be happy. See, this is why I need people to tell me I'm on the wrong track. LOL. Thanks. Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/26/2013 03:37PM by Addicted. |
mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2461 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
I'd keep the pan and use the front oil pump cover if you can afford it. On your project page you show a sleeve for outer wheel bearing. You maybe able to use a smaller outer bearing and sleeve the hub(interference fit .002) for the smaller race, much better way.
|
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
I can't find info on how to actually buy that front oil pump system. I'm guessing it's quite pricey.
|
mgb260 Jim Nichols Sequim,WA (2461 posts) Registered: 02/29/2008 08:29PM Main British Car: 1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
The inner bearing race is very hard and precise to run directly on the spindle. The outer angled race is very hard and precise to run on the outer bearing race. By sleeveing the hub which is cast iron (trailer hub) the relationship between the rotating parts is as designed. Your spacer would heat up and spin and destroy itself in no time. If you used chrome moly, interference fit, instead of mild steel for the spacer it may work. You may be able to find a bearing that has the smaller inner hole/larger outside race. I've done this sort of thing for a while. I really like your caliper adapter.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2013 02:08PM by mgb260. |
|
glenzo654 glenn brackett mass (4 posts) Registered: 11/29/2013 12:31PM Main British Car: 1980 tr7 drop top 5.0 ford t5 5speed |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
here are some pics of the new subframe I made using 1.5 square tubing mainly.
it bolts to the stock mounting points and uses the 1.5 tube for the lower link mounting point. the front sway bar mounting point is identical to stock . the steering rack is approx. 1 inch lower and slightly forward of stock doesn't appear to be a problem. it clears the front hump of the stock mustang oil pan though not by much it is just behind it. I made the trans. mount first using the stock ford mount the shifter is perfect in the existing hole.i have the car sitting on the new setup right now waiting for a set of block hugger ford headers to arrive to look at the next hurdle. good luck glenn Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2013 07:22PM by glenzo654. |
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Thanks Glenn. I think I have things lined up pretty well with the stock cross member and the stock ford oil pan. I moved my engine about 1/2" further forward, and all seems good now.
|
Dan Jones Dan Jones St. Louis, Missouri (280 posts) Registered: 07/21/2008 03:32PM Main British Car: 1980 Triumph TR8 3.5L Rover V8 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Sounds like it's too late but early Broncos used a rear sump pan. This Bronco pan from Milodon has more space between the sumps than the typical fox body double sump oil pan.
[www.tomsbroncoparts.com] Dan Jones |
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Dan, thanks for the suggestion, but every Milodon and Moroso pan I've looked at has too deep of a rear sump. The Fox pan is 7.5" deep including the drain plug, and that Milodon pan is 10" deep. It would be way to close to the ground.
I made 80% of the motor mount supports off my subframe / k-member yesterday, and it's looking good. I wish I hadn't scrapped out the k-members from the parts cars I've had over the years. The next question will be, how many stock TR7 drivetrains to keep. I have a complete 4 speed and now the compelete 5 speed (engine, transmission, driveshaft, rear end). I'll probably never use either of them again, but that's what I said about the k-members that I wish I had back. If I had space, I'd keep everything. That's just not a practical option. |
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
I’ve been plugging along as time and family commitments have allowed.
I’m close to being ready to bolt the engine into place. Here are some pictures of the k-member. The driver’s side setup is a bit convoluted to clear the steering, but it’s plenty strong and looks decent. The driver’s side motor mount was touching the header, and the passenger side was too close for comfort, so I trimmed the corners off and made some stainless heat shields to protect the rubber. I had this all set up to use the stock mustang oil pan, but it was pretty tight. I decided to give myself a little more clearance between the pan and the steering rack with a tweak to the pan. This time, my pan modification actually fits on the engine! I have the engine, clutch, and transmission assembled together now, and I weighed it all last night. 538lbs. Missing from that weight is an air cleaner, water tubes (to feed the heater core), wiring, alternator, pulleys, and belt. I’m working on cleaning up the engine bay before final engine installation. Once I get my garage cleared out a bit, I’ll weigh the stock TR7 assembly for comparison. Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2019 08:44AM by Addicted. |
BlownMGB-V8 Jim Blackwood 9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042 (6468 posts) Registered: 10/23/2007 12:59PM Main British Car: 1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Mike, your photos aren't coming through. Probably they are larger than the 600Kb limit and need to be resized. Curtis has guidelines for doing that on a thread posted here somewhere.
Jim |
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Yeah, the preview wan't working for me, and after I posted the message I saw that the pictures were all goofed up. They should be fixed now. I have them in photobucket.
|
glenzo654 glenn brackett mass (4 posts) Registered: 11/29/2013 12:31PM Main British Car: 1980 tr7 drop top 5.0 ford t5 5speed |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
mike
I am curious as to how high your engine is going to be in the car with that setup I have 5.5 inches of ground clearance to the drain plug on the oilpan if you look at the front of my engine and draw a level line with the bottom of the block where the oil pan bolts to over to the frame rail the mounting point is 1.5 inches lower where the stock k frame would bolt to in your picture with the oil filter it appears that you are going to have 4+ inches to the same point that is why I abandoned the idea of the mounts on the k frame and went to the frame rails instead with removable mounts the actual mounts are stock 1990 bronco if someone can tell me how to resize pictures for this post I will put them up glenn |
|
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
I'm not 100% set on height yet. I may need 1/2" to 3/4" spacers to drop the k member down. That will depend on what I need for air cleaner clearance. The rear drain plug on the pan is about flush with the k member. I have a short intake manifold (edelbrock performer). It's nothing high performance, but it will give the best fit. I had it sitting in the engine bay with about 3" clearance from the air cleaner mouting flange to the hood. A regular 14" air cleaner with a drop base just barely fit under the slope of the hood. I think I'm going to end up with a Spectre plenum style air filter setup. I have the old TR7 hood without the extra little bump in the middle, and I don't want to modify it.
I should end up with 5 to 5.5 pan and k member clearance. |
IaTR6 Dennis Costello Central Iowa (191 posts) Registered: 12/29/2007 02:53PM Main British Car: '73 TR 6 '97 Explorer 5.0 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Mike, Who's headers are you using? I have been considering Sanderson block hugger FF2 for a more rearward exit.
Thanks, Dennis |
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Took a look at those Sanders headers, and I don't think they would work for me. They must go outboard of the starter, which woud hit my "framerail" (unibody, of course). There's a small window where I could have the headers come out. I figured I needed something that came forward a bit on the passenger side, and headed down in front of the starter. Then the pipe needs to route under the starter. I didn't find any long tube headers that went under the starter (spent many many hours looking).
Those Speedway block huggers are tight to the mounts and tight to the starter, but they point where I want them. I can just barely slip the mini starter in and out with the header in place. |
Addicted Mike Hagadorn Warren PA (132 posts) Registered: 09/27/2013 03:46PM Main British Car: 1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302 |
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Here's the header and starter fit. It's tight.
I figured I couldn't use headers that headed much outboard of the starter, which meant they needed to route somewhat under the starter. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2019 08:45AM by Addicted. |