Triumph Sports Cars

I have a `67 TR4A and access to an LS1 engine.

My first car in high school was a `65 TR4A , had to sell in college which depressed me a long time , `till my wife snuck the `67 in our garage - 1st Christmas together 22 yrs. ago . I`m 56 yo and not mechanical , but I am surrounded by good Gearheads. I`m determined to put a V8 in this `67 Triumph , hopefully the LS1.

??????? Anybody have any experience with such a project ???? All advise , counsel , wisdom , and comments will be greatly appreciated . Thanks , Rick H.

Look at Calvin's blog at the top.
The 4 and 6 shells differ only on the exterior panels.
That'll give you a really good start.

Do it. It will be awesome! Seriously.

Hi Rick,
Welcome to BV8.org

If you have a TR4-A, I believe you would have the straight axle and not the IRS suspension. That would probably not hold up to the torque of an LSX series engine. The IRS differential would have the same problem. You could use it to get your ride on the road, but would need to baby them both.

As far as what transmission, most ls1's have a T56 6 speed behind them. The T56 is a long transmission, which would set your stick shift knob about 8" or so inches back from the stock position, depending where you locate your engine. The reverse lock out solenoid also will protrude out right about where your right knee will be. The tunnel cover will need to change in that area. The drive shaft will need to handle the torque that an ls1 can produce + U-joints. The rear tunnel over the drive shaft may need to be raised about 2” for a larger diameter driveshaft.

For the engine compartment: You will need to use a Camaro oil pan on the Ls1 for clearance. The water pump on an Ls1 will need attention on where the heater tubes come out. They will be pointing out where your top suspension tower & cross bar support is. The neck for your thermostat will be pointing in that same direction too. The stock brake booster will need to be moved outward about 3/4" to clear the coil packs + the steering shaft goes through this same area. Will need a dual steering u-joint and a single u-joint to take the steering around the engine and pass the header. Two standoff bearings to hold the steering shaft will need to be used. The front accessories will need attention also. The frame rails are close down low, so they will need to come up some. Vintage Air / Speed & Performance may have what you need.
The Fire Wall will need to be moved back depending on where you locate your engine. If you have your oil pan flush with the bottom of the frame, you should have enough clearance for your hood to close. I have mine 1/2" lower than the frame and after measuring again there is clearance room.
Will need a larger radiator for better cooling. Your fuel line will need to be larger (3/8").

These are just some of the issues that I ran into with an Ls1 conversion.

I would look at Ken Hiebert's conversion which is very close to what your idea may be.
[www.britishv8.org]

Maybe some others can chim in with there thoughts.

Calvin



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2010 07:04PM by 74ls1tr6.

If it's a 4A it's IRS.
If that's the case, the R200/CV combo sold by goodparts will handle the rear end.
After that it's just a driveshaft.

If it's a 4 then it's a straight axle.
But iirc the cutover was early 65, so a 67 is almost certainly a 4A.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2010 06:59PM by alana.

The TR4A was available with either an IRS or a live axle. American dealers complained that American drivers wouldn't be willing to pay the extra for an IRS, so the factory came up with a retro fit to use the old live axle with leaf springs on "most" cars sold in the US. The chassis remained the same either way.

You are (of course) right.
I just had to go back to the books to check though - I always thought the only live axle ones were designated 4's and all 4As were IRS. I didn't realise that there was a different designation for the US market

:blush: