Triumph Sports Cars

My trusty tape measure tells me there is close to 23" from the top of the front crossmember on my TR6 to the underside of the bonnet. Measurements of the Ford 5.0 tell me the rear sump oil pan projects approx. 6" below crank centerline at the front, there is approx.9.5" crank center to lifter valley front rail, and typical carburetor manifolds run 3.5-4.5 plus the carb, plus the air cleaner. It just doesn't seem to fit, but pictures don't lie-do they? I know some notch the crossmember, but just how much is the engine dropped, and have you sectioned the rear oil pan sump so it doesn't drag on the road
Thanks,
Dennis

I'm in the same boat. Mine is installed flush with the frame and I have already gotten a hood scoop. I really wanted to avoid the hood scoop. A bonnet hat with a small hood bulge (TR4 style) might work also and look less macho.
A scoop may get more air in than a short style bonnet hat. No bonnet and no scoop definitely sounds like the air filter will be a bit choked.


People notch the frame to slide the engine forward - not for hood clearance. I did not notch but I had to deal with others issues due to having the engine further back. My stock pan also is shallower in the front than in the rear.

I think people are actually running a little below the frame rail. My support for this is that most people complain of header fitment issues. I bought stock shorty headers and they fit fine with a little trimming of body sheetmetal. I think mine fit because I am sitting higher than they are.

I just measured mine with the hood on. Without the air filter and with a 1/4" hole in the hood, the hood closes but the threaded shaft of the carb sticks 1/2" through and above the hood.


George

Thanks George. I have plans to use the Explorer 5.0 as the base, so the oil pan will need changing. I plan to keep plugging along, with something to show for it at the end.
Dennis