Triumph Sports Cars

A couple pics of my project...



More to come later...it takes me forever to upload!

Danny

That is going to be a BEAST!

In Indiana do they pronounce Versailles like France (Ver-sigh) or like Kentucky(Ver-sells)?

We pronounce it Ver-sales!
Danny

Ver-Good project!

280 hp should make a nice ride.

Are you using the entire 300zx drive line?

yes...
I'm using the 5 speed, had the driveshaft shortened, and the R200 rearend w/ 3:70 gears. I'd like to find an R200 with the 3:54 gearing, as I think the 3:70 may be a little to low, with the small dia tires on these cars. I need to maybe move the steering rack forward, though, for of all things, alternator clearance. Anybody done this? Will I get much bump steer from altering the geometry of the front end? I could make a new alt mount, but theres little room for it anywhere but the stock location, and the bottom "tab" hits the rack by about 3/4".

Gearing depends on what type of driving your going to do most of the time.
The R200 with 3:70 works well in the TR6, Ford 5.0 HO for me as most of my driving is cruising and some back roads. At 70 mph she is running about 1900 rpm, great gas milage.(AOD trany) The 5.0 has so much low end torque that up hills and quick starts, ......OH, I mean "spirited driving" is no problem.

Most of us end up having to modify the steering to get by the V8's and V6's.

Some use Flaming River, u-joints, steering shafts and support bearings.
[www.kennysrodshop.com]

Some use Borgeson u-joints,shafts and bearing is what I used.
[www.kennysrodshop.com]




If you have to move the rack and penion, you should consult with a pro or double check with those on the list first. I think the rack can't be below level with the tie rod connection, above is best, and if ahead of the tie rod you may be in trouble. I have not been there, done that, so please check with someone on the list or seek professional help.

Bad bump steer will make for an unhappy drive.

Thanks for the help...my steering shaft clears ok, it was the rack I needed to move. You're right-I definitely don't want to drive a car with bad bumpsteer...that gets to be nerve-racking, and makes the drive less enjoyable. I will most probably work out a new location for the alternator, seems like it would be less work than re-designing the front end. I'd like to keep things as simple as possible, as I'd really like to have this on the road by fall. Don't know about that, though. Still got to get all the systems (Fuel, megasquirt, cooling, etc) up and going, now that I've got the drivetrain in.

That SBF almost looks like a factory fit in your car, BTW! I considered the 302 for my car at first, before I decided on this v6 nissan. The ford would have taken a LOT of modifications to fit in a Spitfire, whereas (sp?) the VG motor fit like a glove. Didn't even have to modify the frame for the tranny, as in most swaps I've seen.
Danny

I would agree with Don, relocating your rack should be your last resort, especially forward/aft. Try to be creative with your alternator mounts. It could save you headaches down the road.

In regards to steering joints, Borgenson and Flaming River make some great products but if you like to rout around in your local wrecking yard and don't mind a challenge, I believe the steering joints from full size Chevy vans represent good value. Look for the ones that are run through a weather protecting plastic tube (easy clean up, stays lubricated). They're needle bearing joints with the standard "D" shaft configuration.


The vibration dampener can also be incorperated as well as the collapsible shaft safety feature.


I like your choice of drive trains. My daily driver is a Nissan 240 SX.

Thanks, Ken
Based on everyones opinions, I think I'll rework the alternator mount. I really don't relish the idea of re-engineering the front suspension, anyway. Thanks for all the good ideas!
Danny

Ken and Don are giving you good advice. If I recall correctly, moving the rack up or down causes bump steer but moving it forward or back creates a change in steering geometry and can affect the ackerman angle. It needs to be in line with the tie rod ends but how far you can move it fore and aft I'm unsure of. Obviously as the wheels turn the tie rod ends do not stay in line with the rack and it's very likely they start out ahead of it and move past center to the rear of it on most cars so there should be some leeway there, how much is hard to say. Most people seem to try to relocate the tie rod ends by the same amount that they move the rack and in the same direction. But of course if you change the length of the steering arms it also changes your steering ratio.

Jim

Jim...
You're not too far from me in Florence-less than an hour. I'd love to see that ride sometime. I think I read your writeup somewhere, but can't remember where! Thanks for the advice.
Danny

Danny, I moved my rack about 3/4 inch but I can't remember if it was forward or back. It sits between the front of the oil pan and the crank pulley so I had no choice. Anyway, It seems to drive fine. I have problems on these old state highways where the trucks have worn depressions in the road. My car dances around quite a bit in this case because it can't ride in the bottom of the depressions. I think the wide tires and narrow track have a lot to do with it rather than the rack repositioning. I agree that its probably best to leave it in the stock location if you can.

On the final ratio question I used a gear speed calculator that I got on the web. I investigated all kinds of combinations. With my 205x40x16 tires and 3.909:1 ratio I do 3800 RPM at about 80 MPH with a .79 overdrive. Just google gear speed calculator, there are several of them out there. Just put in your information on tire size, final drive, etc. Its a nice tool. It will give you an idea of what to expect. Here is one: [www.kabamus.com]

I plugged in a standard GT6/Spitfire tire size of 155/80/13 and your ratio of 3.7, assumed a .79 overdrive and got this:
RPM MPH
1000 23.17
1500 34.75
2000 46.34
2500 57.92
3000 69.51
3500 81.09
4000 92.67
4500 104.26
5000 115.84
5500 127.43
6000 139.01


Cheers,
Max

Thanks Max...
I'm thinking of going with 16" wheels & 50 series tires, giving me a total dia. of approx 24". This is about an inch larger than stock, and still fits in the wheel well nicely. Should help bring the RPM's down a couple hundred. My overdrive is .76, so I should be about 2800 at 70 MPH, which is a little high, but livable.

Danny

I'd like too suggest that 2800 @ 70 may be wound a little tighter than you'd like perhaps. My MG turns 3500 @ 75 so that's pretty close to where you'll be. Although it's great for twisty back roads, if you do any significant amount of freeway driving you'll always feel you need another gear and gas mileage will suffer. As long as you have the torque for it, getting down around 2 grand at cruise seems to work out well for most folks.

Danny, you're more than welcome to come visit. Roadmaster Weekend would be a good time to do it as there should be some others around as well. Next one is the 31st.

Jim

Thanks Jim
Sounds great.
I know what you mean about turning too many rpms on the highway. My truck with its 4:10 gears, runs about 2500 rpm at 70 MPH. Definitely feels like I could use a double overdrive! Great for pulling, though.
Danny

Danny,

I encourage you to visit Jim's on the Roadmaster weekend. He has a nice setup in his shop there in Florence, It is a good place to come up with ideas...crazy as they may be!

I'll try to make it! Danny

If you are using the stock rear end of eithe a spit o gt6get ahold of me they don't hold up .
mark

Nope, I'm using an R200 Nissan diff.
Danny