Triumph Sports Cars

Rear brakes: Racetorations competion brake shoes and lightweight alloy drums.

Despite the horsepower, I have decided not to fit rear disc brakes. I believe that, when kept in good working order, drum brakes in the rear are more than adequate considering that they only provide a small part of the total braking power.

Rolling chassis...

The front is resting on wooden blocks instead of the springs. This is the ride height that I am aiming for.

Thanks for showing how to do the inserts.

George



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2012 07:13PM by motek.

No problem. I followed the how-to on this website. It is more elaborate than mine.

[tr6.danielsonfamily.org]

The kit comes from this website.

www.pattonmachine.com

Regards,
Kristof.

I'm curious what the plan is for the dash/gauges?

@ Richie A: The dashboard is not a project for the very near future, but I do have a few parts in mind already. My personal preference goes to Stack gauges, tachometer and speedometer. I still haven't decided upon the style of the interior/dashboard: race car or daily driver.

Next is the engine install, brake lines and differential overhaul.

Regards,
Kristof.

Sorry to monopolize on this thread but I am looking forward to seeing how the shifter lines up with the stock interior. As you had already fitted the drivetrain in the chassis do you know how well it fits vs stock?

The shifter will be located a few incher further back than the original one, but since the interior won't be original either, I will correct this partially with the location of the seats, steering and pedals. The shifter itself will also be modified to locate the gear knob more forward. I have few worries about this problem.

Regards,
Kristof.

Any updates? Very anxious to see the progress :)

Also I'm curious what made you decide on 15x7 vs 15x6? Most race cars I've found online are all running 15x6's with 205/60's. Tire selection is very poor for 205/60's however the 7" rim seem to usually get the vote that they will cause rubbing issues along with sticking out quite a bit. Were you going to be flaring your fenders?

Cheers,

Richie

Hi-

What rear axle hubs did you use? They don't look like stock Triumph parts.

Thanks,

Chad

Kristof,

A question has come up about the front suspension wishbones. The lower mounts to the frame appear to be stock TR4A. Triumph upgraded on the TR6 to a two bolt bracket instead of one. Is there a reason you didn't do that upgrade. Thanks,

Dan B

Hello,

I haven't been here for a while nor near the car for that matter. 2 months ago I started another project that will keep me busy until it will turn 18 years old -best case scenario ;-) - and we are also looking for a new house. I can't give you any updates for now, but I will answer your questions.

The lower whishbone bracket are the later ones with the double stud (as in the TR5-6). A few years back the orginal bracket broke and let's just say I didn't want something like that to happen again.

The hubs are the included in the Goodparts CV axle kit and are beautifully machined parts.

You can see the reason for the 7" - 0 offset wheels on the previous page. I really like the stance of the yellow car built by Racetorations.

Questions are still more than welcome, but unfortunately updates will not be for the next few months.

Kind regards,
Kristof.

Congratulations on your new "project!"

It was apparently more difficult to decide what I wanted to do with the engine exactly than I first thought.

Here are the plans...

Since many F20C engines suffer engine damage as a result of a broken valve, the head will be rebuilt with aftermarket components. Camshafst will be left alone, since very few manufacturers can prove horsepower gains with theirs.

On the induction side -and this I am very excited about- two double Weber DCOE carburetors will do the work. I came in touch with a man who is a real Weber wizard and who also happens to rebuild/tune F20C engines. When I asked about the Vtec, he assured me that the Vtec and the Webers could work perfectly together. I believe the sound, performance and the look will be second to none.

For the ignition we will take a KMS ignition only module. This will also send the Vtec signal.

By the end of the year I should have the entire engine back.

Another small update.

Today I picked up a brand new clutch kit from Helix Autosport. Parts are superb quality! I wonder what it will feel like on the road.

I also ordered a custom made fuel tank from Andy Wiltshire in the UK. The tanks that he builds, have received many great reviews by his customers. I specified a 56 liter (extra large size) tank with JIC fittings for fuel feed and return and a VDO dip tube style fuel level sensor. Let's hope this will work together nicely with my Stack fuel level gauge.

I am looking for a alumium radiator with a large puller fan, but still haven't found a rad that ticks all my boxes. Anyone with a suggestion? (preferably in the UK)

I'll post pictures when the fuel tank is here.

Regards.

What is this dip tube you refer to?

Jim

[www.proalloy.co.uk]

Appears to be the best in the business. The Stack fuel level gauge can be configured accordingly.

Kristof.

So still a resistor wire and contact system the same as with a pivot float. Disappointing. You would think modern technology could produce something better.

Jim

Modern Technology Here -> [www.gillsensors.co.uk]

Actually they've been used in jets for over 50 years...

@ Frizzle Fry

I had been looking at those, but I am not looking for 1% accuracy in the fuel level gauge:-)

The signal output is also not compatible with my Stack fuel gauge.

Beautiful product though!