Triumph Sports Cars

the r200 has aweek spot the reer cover 2 bolts aluminum if you have not exploeded one yet you have not put more than 250 hp to the ground the driffter car racers say the same thing the Richard Good mounts crack and bend every time ( with big hp ) my car with 6 cylinder exploeded 3 covers ez fix see photos the nissan boys push that r200 diff to 1000 hp with good mounts ps I still by richards mounts to start with Richard Good is a class act

more photos

Interesting. Hadn't read up on folks breaking these. But I guess I need to be especially careful till I fix my front mounts. Upper bushings are gone & diff seems to be slipping up & down a bit on the steel shafts embedded in what's left of the bushings.

Don't think I'm likely to break mine though till I get stickier tires. My Falkens aren't as good as I was hoping they'd be.

One thing that was missing from Richard's excellent kit was the instruction to torque the rear mount/cover fixing bolts to 70 lbft, but that has been rectified.
Unless the bolts are torqued up and threadlocked they do come loose, even with standard-compound 215 tyres.

Ivor



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2012 05:19AM by 88v8.

At one point in my build I wondered if I should have gone with the V8 option instead of the Honda S2000 engine. However, when I see what big torque numbers can do with the driveline components, I am glad that I won't have enough torque to break my R200 mounting kit :-)

Nice to see that you still do business with Richard. I also thought that he was a great man to deal with.

Kristof.

I just want to say Richard good and goodparts are the bast thing to ever happin for triumph owners ever his parts are the best his service fast his prices good he was not thinking 500 hp v8 when he made r200 mounts or 300 hp nitrous shot 6 cyilenders like I ran for years maybe his next project will be v8 convertion ? go Richard

... and one of BritishV8's vendor sponsors too!

Seems like the up-graded mount, might be slightly better attached with studs ? They could be loc-tighted into case, and bracket retained with nyloc nuts. Cheers, roverman.

In the Nissan, studs is indeed how it's fixed, and the nut torque is 87 ft lb. However, in the TR, alas there is no room for nuts, hence the change to c/s hex set screws.

Ivor

My problem was not bolts coming loose the bolts would hooked to the broken cover and still tite

The front can break at a lot less hp. Btdt

OK, since you guys seem to know a lot about the r200 short nose, I hope you don't mind me asking some questions about the front mount bushings. I've been Googling for info but am just getting confused. The diff I have came from a JDM Skyline but the housing is supposed to be the same as a 240SX. My Nissan dealer didn't show replacement bushings - which surprised me but he showed me the exploded diagram and there was no call out for them. I did find some from Energy Suspension (7.1118) that say they will only work with an S12 chassis - not S13 or S14. If my diff had the bushings like the 240SX, which "S" chassis is that?

A Rob my only experience with Nissan factory bushings is drilling them out the bushings that hold mine are very different. I know what you mean about the Nissan dealers every time I've looked for a part for a Nissan diff dealers always tell me they don't have much call that I don't think they stock anything and I wonder what they can even get I believe your best bet would be to try looking on some of the tuner car websites the guys that run that twin turbo 300 350 and 370 they are your best bet thay have ways of modifying amounts.frunt and reer

Some of them even go the route that I go which is to make the differential float believe it or not in my car I run 35-year-old stock rubber bushings with extra rubber to allow the differential to rotate opposite the motor the rear come down the front go up. I tried modern stiff bushings with no controllable movement in the rear diff the car either spun the tires or wheel hopped being a drag racer I know the most important thing for traction is not tires it's the shock absorbing weight transferring movement of the rare end. I have actually videotaped the movement of my rare end to adjust tension on all four corners on my old rubber bushings in my car when I go to car shows it's like finding gold when I find somebody that has old triumph rubber bushings I

I'm sure if you look around you'll be able to come up with something better than what you had don't worry about solid worry about smooth well set up rear end and a soft clutch is what launches these lightweight cars your car has plenty of horsepower it should launch pretty well



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/31/2012 03:36PM by tomsbad6.

Hello since I'm changing out my differential I thought I'd take a couple pictures for you my car has three different systems to absorb energy or shock produced by the engines horsepower I've told you before I like old war out natural rubber bushings in my differential with new bushings or even worse with urethane bushings it's completely impossible to make a TR six not either spin the tires or wheel hop the differential rotates to directions when you're on the throttle here are a couple of pictures one of my rotted out old frame boxes if you look close you can see the rust holes in the bottom they work just fine the other picture if you look close you can see two things how far the differential compresses the right front bushing by looking at the clean spot above the bushing multiply that movement by four bushings my rear bushings drop just about 5/8 of an inch it is all adjustable just by how much tension you put on the formal bolts if you look close at the rubber bushing you can see it's completely dry rotted and cracked all the way around it's good old-fashioned natural rubber from a rubber tree and it absorb shock and snaps back just fine I know if I had a four link system I would not have to worry about this anymore but every time I go around the long sweeping offramp at 110 or 120 mph throttle on it reminds me why I fell in love with my TR six

signed one crazy Swede



yes this'll cars really never been off the frame which is really kind of crazy considering I have a jig to build body tub's nearly from scratch and a jig for TR six frames to do the same thing

Ah, so do you run rubbers at front and back? The original rubbers on my rear came loose on the bushings, the diff was banging up & down.
Problem I had when installing the R200 was the tiny clearance between the diff nose and the trans tunnel. Had to make some adjustments to the sheet with a big hammer.
Your outriggers do look a bit flaky. I had mine replaced with the body on. A guy who's a whizz with a gas torch. I was inside the car while he did it, spraying water to keep the paint and trim from catching fire. Took us pretty well all day, but it was fine, although the chap did say if he had to do the job again he'd cut an access hole where the rear seat goes, rather than do it all from below.
We measured very carefully, and I have Richard's adjustable trailing arm mounts, so any slight misalignment could be corrected.

Ivor