Triumph Sports Cars

Thanks for the kind words Bryon.

The dye I used is from Parasol Inc. (www.parasolinc.com). I took in my new soft top and had him match the color. My soft top color is "Leather Textured Bisque Vinyl" (www.topsonline.com/fabric.html?img=18 and www.topsonline.com/model/Convertible_Tops_And_Accessories/Triumph/1979_thru_1981_Triumph_TR7_And_TR8_Roadster.html). The Parasol dye batch lot is WV-VKL Varikolor A13-06k. Works on leather and vinyl. Nice people. Happy to work with you to match what you want..

For my front end, I will modify the lower strut legs with adjustable perches (which I have already). For the rear end, I'm not sure what I will do yet. Stock rear springs are 166lbs/in x 10.2" long and are supposed to be compressed to 8" when mounted. I've put on rear springs from a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse which are 195lbs/in x 10.5" long. I didn't measure the mounted length, but my new KYB rear shocks are also a bit longer than original, so it likely isn't sitting as compressed as it should be. Taking a coil out changes the spring rate a bit (makes it stiffer), but I'd have to do the calc's to know by how much. So much fun :)

Didn't feel very well today (stupid flu), and the weather was iffy, so only mounted the other headlight and played with some sheet metal trying to figure out what to do for a fresh air intake for the cabin (through the heater box), as the new engine is set back and prevents me using the stock fresh air intake plenum. I've made a blanking plate for the opening. Need to make an some kind of an adapter for a 2" or 3" hose to the front of the rad. Better go and get the hose tomorrow before I mess it up. Might look for an aluminum or chrome tube from a cheap cold air intake kit for some Jap scrap to make it look nice.

Lights in:


Engine bay:


Fresh air intake opening:


M.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2013 09:27PM by bsa_m21.

Been slowing completing the re-assembly:



Interior is going in now:


Electric door locks and windows:


Interior mostly in, now time to start on the wiring.


M.

Doors complete:


Wiring the door lock and window switches:


I used one of the window switches for the door lock switch. Drivers side upper switch is door lock. Lower and pass side are for windows.

Starting to figure out the alarm and remote system. Oy!


Amazing how long it takes to get everything right. Test fit, take it apart, another fit, scratch it (damn!), finally get it right. :)

Hopefully will have the wiring done and dash in by mid week. (Hope springs eternal). Then it's put in the windshield and bumpers and take her out for the maiden test drive!

M.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/28/2013 11:28PM by bsa_m21.

Where did you get the power windows and door locks? Are they TR7/8 specific or generic?

Both the power lock and window mechanisms are generic from the orient and were sourced locally (Toronto, Canada).

$70 for the window kit with 3 switches, relays and multi door adapters. The same kit is on ebay for $60 (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/car-front-2-doors-Universal-Power-Window-Kits-Switches-/230589647557?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item35b036cac5&vxp=mtr). Only mod I had to do on the door, was to drill and physically pin the adapter to the stock window actuating rod with a screw. I also cut up the harness and modded to suit my center console switch install.

Door locks were from a local job shop (princessauto.ca) at $7 ea.

Relatively easy overall install and they work great.

M.

Looks Great and I'll bet you will enjoy the heck out of it.

looks awesome what shade of green is the one on the rack?

Nice car hope mine will shine like that soon lol. I'm building a tr8 rally replica but the problem I have is that the engine is sitting high cant close bonnet it's got a tr8 subframe should I change the mounts on the v8? As I'm using the rover sd1 mounts also does the sump need to be modified hope you can help my email is pvbs1261@aol.com I'm located South Wales u.k. Thanks peter

Peter,

If you can't close the bonnet, its likely you left out the spacers on the subframe. You can always add extra spacers if need be. Check a TR8 patrts book and manual to see what is needed. I'm not familiar with SD1 engine mounts, but replica TR8 mounts are available, cheap and sit the engine quite low in the cradle.

Re the sump - what vehicle did your engine come from? An SD1 sump should be fine. A Rover one will need to be modified or replaced.

Best of luck!

M.

Well, she is finished and on the road now. All I can say is whoo hoo! What a blast. Hugely powerful engine, tight suspension, good rubber, good lookin. I'm a happy boy.

Rover 3.9L V8, 10.5:1 compression, ported, Erson Cam, Edelbrock 1404, 4-2-1 headers into 2-1 collector and 2.75 OD single exhaust. A lovely rumbling idle and roars under accelleration.

The aluminum pipe and flex hose is for the fresh air intake to the passenger cabin. The stock unit wouldn't fit as the engine is too far back.

Seats from a Mercedes CS230, on TR7 seat rails. Fit like a glove and very comfortable.





Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2013 11:32AM by bsa_m21.

Custom fitted oil pressure gauge in old analog clock location (upper left of instrument cluster). Switches in lower arms of centre console for power windows & door locks.


Clarion radio and media player (usb & sd card reader built in). USB power take off added at bottom of center console to left of alarm warning light.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2013 11:33AM by bsa_m21.

Nice job, the car looks great! I am sure you are having a ton of fun with it. Which Clarion model stereo did you use and did you need to do anything special to get it to fit? That center console is not very deep. I currently have a $50 open box CD radio in mine and it sticks out.

Thanks Dan,

The radio is an Cdn$80 Clarion "1/2 din" FZ150 multimedia player. No CD/DVD, so it can be 1/2 normal depth. [www.clarion.com]

I cut the bottom 1/3" of the stock radio opening and glued it along the top of the opening. This enabled me to mount the radio completely flush. I have an AC heater box which takes up more space than the non-ac one. If I had used the non-ac heater box I wouldn't have needed to cut the console.



M.

Mine has AC too. Was the radio depth the issue that required lowering it, or was it something else? Specs online say that radio is on 3 1/4" deep.

I really like the way you handled the fresh air vent.

With the AC box and a non-modified console, it will still not sit flush.

The issue is that DIN sizes are too thick for the TR's, as well as normally too deep. Although it is a 1/2 DIN and 3.25" deep, it is still 2" thick. The old cassette radios that fit were a bit over 1" thick (I have one kicking around somewhere). The combination of the new unit's thickness and the shape of the console mean it will still sit at an angle to the console, with the bottom edge sticking out. I didn't like that so I modified the console.

To see the angle it would sit, take a rigid ruler and slide it in along the top edge of the console opening, 3.25" and lean it up against the AC unit. Viewed from the side, you will see the angle the unit will sit.

FYI - I chose the Clarion unit as it has a bit of a retro look that fits well with the car. Everything else 1/2DIN that I found had way too much LED and flashing doodahs for my taste.

M.

beautiful car great job !!

Quote:

Rover 3.9L V8, 10.5:1 compression

What kind of pistons did you use?

Pistons?

I used Rover 4.0L, +20over, 9.35:1 pistons. I have a 3.9 - 2 bolt block which has been slightly decked to make sure it was true. I changed the heads for Rover 4.0L heads and used the 3.9L tin gaskets. This bumps the compression.

3.9L head is 36cc, 4.0L head is 28cc.
Composite gasket is 0.048” (1.2mm) and tin is 0.018” (0.45mm).
This gives me a bit less than 10.5:1 compression.

Compression test shows about 170-180psi across the board.

Regards,

M.

How are those Prelude springs working out so far?