Triumph Sports Cars

My brother Dan B bought a TR7 over the weekend and we brought it down to my place. The car is in excellent condition but had issues with starting and idling. Ultimately we found the carb shock mounts were bad and leaking air so we're looking for the best deal on some new ones.

Also it has AC but it hasn't worked in years. I recommended that he change out the York compressor for a Sanden unit. Is there a conversion mount designed specifically for the TR?

Looks like with the fix to the carbs it may be a few years before he does an engine swap so he has some time to gather up parts. Keep us in mind for TR8 specific items such as the subchassis, etc if you would.

Jim

BlownMGB-V8 Wrote:
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> My brother Dan B bought a TR7 over the weekend and
> we brought it down to my place. The car is in
> excellent condition but had issues with starting
> and idling.

Got photos??

>
> Also it has AC but it hasn't worked in years. I
> recommended that he change out the York compressor
> for a Sanden unit. Is there a conversion mount
> designed specifically for the TR?

There is a York bracket to Sanden bracket made by VintageAir.com. They do not have a specific "TR7" conversion, but they will have all the bits to convert a Borg Warner York compressor to a Sanden. Just make sure you secure the top of the compressor to the engine too as the AC bracket on the TR7 I think is cast aluminum.

>
> Looks like with the fix to the carbs it may be a
> few years before he does an engine swap so he has
> some time to gather up parts. Keep us in mind for
> TR8 specific items such as the subchassis, etc if
> you would.

TS Imported Auto - Ted Schumacher in Pandora Ohio has the TR7 V8 conversion subframes

Here are the pics:

Now isn't that a sweet looking TR7? I realize the car was never too popular and still isn't, it's more like the whipping boy of the LBC world. But once you take the time to look closely at one that is in good condition there's a lot to like about this car. It's wider than both the 6 and the MGB by about 6 inches for example as well as shorter, it's comfortable to sit in, has good visibility, a large trunk, the top fits well, it has A/C (with huge dash vents you can see the evaporator through), the 5mph bumpers are well integrated into the body of the car, it has a huge glovebox and so on. At about the same weight as an MGB it should have a strong unibody structure, it's an obvious candidate for a V8 with minimal work, (though no matter what I say or do I wouldn't be surprised to see Dan put a Stag motor in it. Was that the engine they used for the TR8's?) and best of all he doesn't have much money in it. This one has about 40k miles on it and though the plaid interior hurts the eyes a bit it can always be changed to something a bit more conventional. Compared to some of the weird cars coming out in recent years the body shape isn't at all bad either, the styling was probably just too advanced for that era, and it seemed overpriced. But would it sell today? I expect so.

Jim

Quote:

I wouldn't be surprised to see Dan put a Stag motor in it. Was that the engine they used for the TR8's?

I'd be VERY surprised to see a Stag engine go into it... TR8 had a 3.5L Rover V8 - either carbureted or fuel injected. (Fuel injected for California.) Have a look at the photo gallery because there are a couple nice TR8s in their now.

The chassis does seem to be quite strong. Here are some photos to give you ideas:

No, Jim, I'm not putting any stinkin' Stag motor in it!

Well, shows you how much I know`about Triumphs. Any luck on those carb mounts?

Jim

Dan B Wrote:
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> No, Jim, I'm not putting any stinkin' Stag motor
> in it!

Stinkin' Stag motor?? Thems' fightin words to a Stag owner!!!!

But you will have an easier time putting a Rover in it. Besides, you can go a 5.2 liter Rover as it is basically the same size block as the 3.5. And TS Imported Auto (Ted Schumacher) sells the V8 conversion subframes.

Now if you ever drove a properly tuned "real" Triumph V8 engined car, you would probably eat those "stinkin" words ...

That sure is a nice TR7 though. How much did you give for it Dan?

I agree, the Stag motor is twice the engine a TR7 comes with. In more ways than one!

For now, though, the plan is to run the stock engine for a while. Thanks for the complements on the car. I feel like I got a pretty good deal on it, the previous owner apparently was chasing some demons in the fuel system, and we may have stumbled onto the solution with those carb mounts. Now TRF has them on back order!

BlownMGB-V8 Wrote:
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It's wider than both the 6 and the MGB by about 6 inches...

I'm starting to like it better already!

Dan,

If you run across a deal on a TR8 crossmember, grab it. At some point you WILL want to use it. ;)

There is one on ebay. How much do they usually go for?

Nice looking ride. We British car fans should count ourselves lucky--at least in the search and buy stage--that these cars have not gone as crazy as, say, '60s Mopars. For what some Charger fan (and I am one) has to pay for a rolling wreck we can get a turnkey roadster.

I've been trying to nudge my brother toward a TR8 for years because it's a nice looking, good performing car, but he's anti-wedge. Downside is that he's missed years of fun--I've sent him TR7 and TR8 links by the dozens--but the upside for me is that hopefully I'll get to help him build a tweaked Stag, Sunbeam, B or sub-7 TR. Kris

Dan B Wrote:
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> There is one on ebay. How much do they usually go
> for?

Dan,

Sorry I missed this. I've been out of town. I really don't know what they are worth. Can't be that common, though.

Just took some measurements that might interest a few of you...

I am working on a few cars in the shop right now, but the two side by side comparisons are pretty neat:

1978 TR8 with a TR7 subframe and a 1996 Camaro 3.8L 90 degree V6. Stock manifolds, all stock ancilleries up front. Fits with room to spare. Okay, the exhaust manifolds are tight and are are causing issues with the steering, but I think it can be taken care of...

The comparison: My 1980 MGB 3.4L 60 degree V6.

Lets cut to the chase: Frame rails.

MGB: 16.5" from side to side.
TR8/7: 26.5" side to side!!!!

Now, who is going to put a BBB or BBC in that one???!!

Actually the 1996 3.8L looks Perfect for that car and provides modern good power. I suspect the TR7/8 has more weight to push down the road too.


BTW: I have always liked the TR7, even though it is a lowly Triumph. If I found one cheap enough, I would purcahse a standard TR7 but I really would want a later 5 speed version if at all possible.

Lastly, I have placed pics elsewhere on the web but will get some here in a day or two on a new thread.

-BMC.

Yes on the carb mounts. There is a guy who makes a solid aluminum ones.
His name is Anthony Rhodes, email is spamiam@comcast.net.

Also, there is a company that makes a conversion kit for the A/C compressor. It is made for the early Porsche's but does fit the TR7 original brackets without modifications. sales@griffiths.com

ROG (aka jclay)

If you're looking at an engine swap, an LS1 is almost exactly the same size as a 215 (it's a bit wider iirc). If you mate it with a T56, unless I measured wrong, the stick sits about 2" further back than stock. Other than that it ought not to be a difficult swap. Of course you'll be rebuilding the back end in fairly short order!

If you want to see a really mad conversion, take a look at Tim Lanocha's SBC powered vehicle.
[www.lanocharacing.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/01/2009 09:54PM by alana.

Nice car. I've always liked TR7's, especially the coupes and plaid interiors. Been flamed for years because of it too.

I think I have some carb mounts, I'll check the garage tomorrow.

Dan B-

Wow nice wedge! It is a 30th anniversary edition too to boot! All it is missing is the "2.0 Liter" on the front lower of the rear quater/fenders and the dash plaque. I would replace the mounts with either new/ or good used. The solid ones are even better. The AC compressor is a common one.

As far as the conversion goes the Rover V8 is the easiest and uses almost everyting you already have:
-Steering rack, alternator, radaitor, clutch slave and hose all stay.
-This what you will need:
-TR8 subframe ($300 to $600) MAKE sure you get the aluminum spacers too, TR8 only! If not the air cleaner may hit the hood.
-TR8 engine mounts and brackets (TSI $140)
-Engine.......3.5, 4.0, 4.2. 4.6 or built 5.0 (as low as $500 to the sky is the limit)
-TR8/SD1 front cover, alternator bracket and water pump & oil pan (Sometime can be bought with a Rover V8 as a complete set up). You will need hoses and to move the coolant tank to the if it is not on the passenger side inner fender. The starter wires are shortened. Alternator wiring stays in the same place, oil pressure wiring same place same with the temp sender (TR7 & 8 are the same)
-TR8 radiator or after market and you can use the 7 mounts, kinda close to the water pump snout or TR8 that moves it pretty far away.
-Transmission-use the original along with the throw out bearing, clutch fork, collar, pushrod, mount, speedo cable reverse light and wiring.
-TR8 Transmission cross memeber or redrill the floor for the TR7 one. The transmission will move back a few inches with the Rover V8. If you use the TR7 shifter assembly you might need to notch the rear transmission tunnel cross memeber at the shifter hole. If you use the TR8 shifter assembly it is about 3/4-inch shorter...no cutting!
-Rover V8 Bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, dust cover (TSI or Woody $600 to $900)
-TR8 or aftermarket drive shaft.
-You have a 3.45:1 rear axle and the same rear brakes as a TR8 keep them.
-Headers $300 and custom exhaust or stock....
-Intake & 4 barrel ($400 to $700)
-TR8 or Converted TR7 Tach (Woody)
-Electric fuel pump mounted in the rear cheap......
-Mallory Distributor ($300) the wiring will need some work since it is in the rear of the 4 cyl and the front for the V8.....still easy.
-Suspension/Brakes-Struts are the same as TR7 or 8 so KYB, Koni, Spax or GAZ ($300 to $600) are the best upgrades, Lower stiffer springs (TSI or Woody $200) Full upgraded businhgs (TSI or Woody $200), Used TR8 calipers or aftermarket and same with rotors are all better than stock TR7. You can do a upgraded sway bar, TR8 is larger in diameter and so are the after market.

I know others have talked about a LS1 or V6 but in 2 to 4 weekends you can do this swap and no need for a welder, sawz-all, sledge hammer or second guessing what to do next. This is as the factory would have done to make a TR8 drop the stuff in and hook up hoses and wires. No painting or any additional effort. I have done this working at Woody's The Wedge Shop on 3 or 4 cars in the past. Everything mention works and is proven to get a dependable and quick nice handling car in the end.

If it was me I would get some Datsun 240Z non water chock Hitachi carbs and use them, direct bolt on and so simple to tune and chuck the Zeniths. Install a header. Springs and shocks with busings and drive the car. The 4cylinder is fun too!