Triumph Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" V8s (Stag and TR8)

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Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: November 25, 2013 02:44PM

I've had a project journal going for a month or so, but I wouldn't mind some discussiond or getting told I'm on the wrong track, so I'm starting a thread here.

Short story:
1976 TR7 that I've had for 25 or so years. Not the nicest car around, but it's decent. After 25 years with this car, I'm ready to repower with a Ford 5.0 / 302.

This week, I test fitted some headers. They seem like they'll work fine. I have the subframe hanging loosely under the engine, and I'm trying to figure out how to make everything fit.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/3C300941-41B5-4076-82B2-E0681A4C2A4A-13413-00001E44ABB82BF9_zpsf74e645e.jpg
What a challenge! About 10 years ago, I built an AC cobra replica. It wasn't a plug and play kit like the FFR, but still, it wasn't as challenging to package everything as this TR7 project. The cobra had a pretty well built 460 with a 4 speed top loader behind it... that was a riot. Anyway, back on topic...

Today, I modified an oil pan to fit over the steering rack. I basically removed the front sump. I'll loose a little oil capacity, and if I find it necessary, I'll make a bigger rear sump. It took 6 hrs from first paint mark on the pan to having it repainted and ready to install.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2013 07:07PM by Addicted.


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(1915 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: mgb260
Date: November 25, 2013 10:16PM

Mike, How is there room for the oil pump? I remember a post a while back about a special front cover with gerotor crank driven oil pump like later Buick/Rover. Found it: [www.racemate.com]



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/25/2013 11:15PM by mgb260.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: November 26, 2013 03:29PM

There isn't. It's going in the garbage. Oh well, I'll chalk it up to a good attempt.

I've been talking to mustang guys about doing that modification for quite a while, and no one mentioned anything about an oil pump. I should have pulled the old pan before I spent the time on the new one. If that's the worst mistake I make, I'll be happy.

See, this is why I need people to tell me I'm on the wrong track. LOL.

Thanks.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/26/2013 03:37PM by Addicted.


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(1915 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: mgb260
Date: November 26, 2013 05:45PM

I'd keep the pan and use the front oil pump cover if you can afford it. On your project page you show a sleeve for outer wheel bearing. You maybe able to use a smaller outer bearing and sleeve the hub(interference fit .002) for the smaller race, much better way.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: November 27, 2013 12:29PM

I can't find info on how to actually buy that front oil pump system. I'm guessing it's quite pricey.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: November 27, 2013 12:33PM

Hey MGB260, what's better about sleeving the hub to use a smaller bearing?


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(1915 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: mgb260
Date: November 27, 2013 01:58PM

The inner bearing race is very hard and precise to run directly on the spindle. The outer angled race is very hard and precise to run on the outer bearing race. By sleeveing the hub which is cast iron (trailer hub) the relationship between the rotating parts is as designed. Your spacer would heat up and spin and destroy itself in no time. If you used chrome moly, interference fit, instead of mild steel for the spacer it may work. You may be able to find a bearing that has the smaller inner hole/larger outside race. I've done this sort of thing for a while. I really like your caliper adapter.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2013 02:08PM by mgb260.



glenzo654
glenn brackett
mass
(4 posts)

Registered:
11/29/2013 12:31PM

Main British Car:
1980 tr7 drop top 5.0 ford t5 5speed

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: glenzo654
Date: November 29, 2013 12:58PM

here are some pics of the new subframe I made using 1.5 square tubing mainly.
it bolts to the stock mounting points and uses the 1.5 tube for the lower link mounting point.
the front sway bar mounting point is identical to stock .
the steering rack is approx. 1 inch lower and slightly forward of stock doesn't appear to be a problem.
it clears the front hump of the stock mustang oil pan though not by much it is just behind it.
I made the trans. mount first using the stock ford mount the shifter is perfect in the existing hole.i have the car sitting on the new setup right now waiting for a set of block hugger ford headers to arrive to look at the next hurdle.
good luck
glenn



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2013 07:22PM by glenzo654.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: November 30, 2013 07:04PM

Thanks Glenn. I think I have things lined up pretty well with the stock cross member and the stock ford oil pan. I moved my engine about 1/2" further forward, and all seems good now.


Dan Jones
Dan Jones
St. Louis, Missouri
(259 posts)

Registered:
07/21/2008 03:32PM

Main British Car:
1980 Triumph TR8 3.5L Rover V8

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Dan Jones
Date: December 01, 2013 11:46AM

Sounds like it's too late but early Broncos used a rear sump pan. This Bronco pan from Milodon has more space between the sumps than the typical fox body double sump oil pan.

[www.tomsbroncoparts.com]

Dan Jones


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: December 02, 2013 11:38AM

Dan, thanks for the suggestion, but every Milodon and Moroso pan I've looked at has too deep of a rear sump. The Fox pan is 7.5" deep including the drain plug, and that Milodon pan is 10" deep. It would be way to close to the ground.

I made 80% of the motor mount supports off my subframe / k-member yesterday, and it's looking good. I wish I hadn't scrapped out the k-members from the parts cars I've had over the years.

The next question will be, how many stock TR7 drivetrains to keep. I have a complete 4 speed and now the compelete 5 speed (engine, transmission, driveshaft, rear end). I'll probably never use either of them again, but that's what I said about the k-members that I wish I had back. If I had space, I'd keep everything. That's just not a practical option.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: December 17, 2013 11:35AM

Iíve been plugging along as time and family commitments have allowed.

Iím close to being ready to bolt the engine into place. Here are some pictures of the k-member. The driverís side setup is a bit convoluted to clear the steering, but itís plenty strong and looks decent.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1411_zpsd108d9da.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1416_zps31d07beb.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1413_zps689ff9b0.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1437_zps023e6c50.jpg

The driverís side motor mount was touching the header, and the passenger side was too close for comfort, so I trimmed the corners off and made some stainless heat shields to protect the rubber.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1465_zpsd930cc41.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1461_zps9534e03d.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1457_zps0add9720.jpg

I had this all set up to use the stock mustang oil pan, but it was pretty tight. I decided to give myself a little more clearance between the pan and the steering rack with a tweak to the pan. This time, my pan modification actually fits on the engine!

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1472_zps7ed42b0e.jpg

I have the engine, clutch, and transmission assembled together now, and I weighed it all last night. 538lbs. Missing from that weight is an air cleaner, water tubes (to feed the heater core), wiring, alternator, pulleys, and belt.

Iím working on cleaning up the engine bay before final engine installation.

Once I get my garage cleared out a bit, Iíll weigh the stock TR7 assembly for comparison.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 12/17/2013 12:03PM by Addicted.


BlownMGB-V8
Jim Blackwood
9406 Gunpowder Rd., Florence, KY 41042
(5646 posts)

Registered:
10/23/2007 12:59PM

Main British Car:
1971 MGB Blown,Injected,Intercooled Buick 340/AA80E/JagIRS

authors avatar
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: BlownMGB-V8
Date: December 17, 2013 11:57AM

Mike, your photos aren't coming through. Probably they are larger than the 600Kb limit and need to be resized. Curtis has guidelines for doing that on a thread posted here somewhere.

Jim


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: December 17, 2013 11:59AM

Yeah, the preview wan't working for me, and after I posted the message I saw that the pictures were all goofed up. They should be fixed now. I have them in photobucket.


glenzo654
glenn brackett
mass
(4 posts)

Registered:
11/29/2013 12:31PM

Main British Car:
1980 tr7 drop top 5.0 ford t5 5speed

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: glenzo654
Date: December 17, 2013 08:19PM

mike
I am curious as to how high your engine is going to be in the car with that setup
I have 5.5 inches of ground clearance to the drain plug on the oilpan
if you look at the front of my engine and draw a level line with the bottom of the block where the oil pan bolts to over to the frame rail
the mounting point is 1.5 inches lower where the stock k frame would bolt to
in your picture with the oil filter it appears that you are going to have 4+ inches to the same point
that is why I abandoned the idea of the mounts on the k frame and went to the frame rails instead with removable mounts
the actual mounts are stock 1990 bronco
if someone can tell me how to resize pictures for this post I will put them up
glenn



Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: December 18, 2013 09:46AM

I'm not 100% set on height yet. I may need 1/2" to 3/4" spacers to drop the k member down. That will depend on what I need for air cleaner clearance. The rear drain plug on the pan is about flush with the k member. I have a short intake manifold (edelbrock performer). It's nothing high performance, but it will give the best fit. I had it sitting in the engine bay with about 3" clearance from the air cleaner mouting flange to the hood. A regular 14" air cleaner with a drop base just barely fit under the slope of the hood. I think I'm going to end up with a Spectre plenum style air filter setup. I have the old TR7 hood without the extra little bump in the middle, and I don't want to modify it.

I should end up with 5 to 5.5 pan and k member clearance.


IaTR6
Dennis Costello
Central Iowa
(134 posts)

Registered:
12/29/2007 02:53PM

Main British Car:
'73 TR 6 '97 Explorer 5.0

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: IaTR6
Date: December 18, 2013 01:22PM

Mike, Who's headers are you using? I have been considering Sanderson block hugger FF2 for a more rearward exit.
Thanks,
Dennis


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: December 18, 2013 03:31PM

They're Speedway block huggers.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: December 18, 2013 03:55PM

Took a look at those Sanders headers, and I don't think they would work for me. They must go outboard of the starter, which woud hit my "framerail" (unibody, of course). There's a small window where I could have the headers come out. I figured I needed something that came forward a bit on the passenger side, and headed down in front of the starter. Then the pipe needs to route under the starter. I didn't find any long tube headers that went under the starter (spent many many hours looking).

Those Speedway block huggers are tight to the mounts and tight to the starter, but they point where I want them. I can just barely slip the mini starter in and out with the header in place.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: December 18, 2013 04:00PM

Here's the header and starter fit. It's tight.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1508_zps5c44f055.png

I figured I couldn't use headers that headed much outboard of the starter, which meant they needed to route somewhat under the starter.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1510_zps5c6ced92.png

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn89/74jawa/TR7/IMG_1511_zps2dd1b59e.png
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