Triumph Sports Cars

engine swaps and other performance upgrades, plus "factory" V8s (Stag and TR8)

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epeppy
Ed Peppard
Woodlawn, TN
(61 posts)

Registered:
08/04/2008 08:35PM

Main British Car:
1975 TR6 Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: epeppy
Date: May 05, 2014 12:02AM

Mike, sent you a PM.

Ed


Capt'n Moorgone
Mike Moor
Angola,IN
(116 posts)

Registered:
11/20/2008 07:05PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB 300 Buick

authors avatar
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Capt'n Moorgone
Date: May 05, 2014 12:12PM

Mike, Looks like a little late night thrashing could get you to Carlisle Kitcar Import show in a couple weeks, lol. We'll be there Friday to Sunday. Mike


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 05, 2014 12:39PM

Mike,
I was at Carlisle with this same TR7 in about 1996. I will have to think about heading down there again.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 05, 2014 01:50PM

Well, I started it up and managed to drive it 0.7 miles this weekend. The brakes barely work at this point, so I just went around the block to see how everything else worked.

Other than brake headaches, the startup went smoothly and I am very happy with everything. The Magnaflow XL mufflers sound perfect to me. They aren't very loud, but sound healthy. If anyone wants a somewhat quiet car, I'd recommend these mufflers.

The weather should be nice for the next few days, so I'll keep plugging away at it and will plan to get a video of it running in the next few days.

On the brake issue, I continually get lots of air out of the front calipers. I literally bled a gallon of fluid through them last night. I've tried vacuum bleeding, vacuum and pumping together, and pumping by itself. Tonight, I plan to pull the pads out, let the pistons extend, and then push fluid back up into the master cylinder by sqeezing the pistons back in.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 06, 2014 03:27PM

I was able to improve the brakes considerably last night. I did the piston extension and retraction process a few times. It empties about half of the fluid reservoir, and then I pushed everything back into the reservoir. I then did some bleeding by pushing the pedal very very slowly (my 9 year old daughter actually did the pedal work, and she enjoyed helping).

It probably still has a bit of air, but it feels safe to drive now. I'll bleed it again tonight if I can get it on the road for a few miles.

The only other issue I have is that the 10si alternator seems to have died. It charged for a few minutes and then quit. I'll check the wiring and the ground, and replace it if necessary. I customized the bolt pattern on it, so I'd have to swap the front housing onto the a one.


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(2463 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 06, 2014 05:22PM

Mike, Did you bench bleed the master first?


DiDueColpi
Fred Key
West coast - Canada
(1365 posts)

Registered:
05/14/2010 03:06AM

Main British Car:
I really thought that I'd be an action figure by now!

authors avatar
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: DiDueColpi
Date: May 06, 2014 08:46PM

Hey Mike,
If the wiring checks out OK.
Check the belt tension. It sounds dumb but we fix lots of burnt out alternators just by tightening the belt.
Then you can quickly test the alternator by full fielding it.
This is done through a small "D" shaped hole in the rear housing.
Just insert a small screwdriver into the "D" hole and ground the tab inside.
If the alt starts to charge then all that's wrong is the regulator.
A rebuild kit is available for these alternators.
They are cheap @ around $20.00 and rebuilding is ridiculously easy.

Cheers
Fred



Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 07, 2014 10:41AM

" Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 06, 2014 05:22PM
Mike, Did you bench bleed the master first?"


No, I did not. I am guessing I should have. Will I get there without taking it off and bench bleeding it now?


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 07, 2014 10:56AM

"Date: May 06, 2014 08:46PM
If the wiring checks out OK.
Check the belt tension. It sounds dumb but we fix lots of burnt out alternators just by tightening the belt.
Then you can quickly test the alternator by full fielding it.
This is done through a small "D" shaped hole in the rear housing.
Just insert a small screwdriver into the "D" hole and ground the tab inside.
If the alt starts to charge then all that's wrong is the regulator.
A rebuild kit is available for these alternators.
They are cheap @ around $20.00 and rebuilding is ridiculously easy.

Cheers
Fred"

Fred,
Thanks. I'll try snugging up the belt. It does charge a little bit regardless of whether the field and sense connections are hooked up. It looks like it's spinning fine, but

I can swap it for a rebuilt one at AdvanceAuto for about $22. My front cover is customized to fit the Ford bracketry, so I'll have to swap covers if I get a different alternator. I should probably just put a regulator in the one I have since I have to take it apart anyway.

I have heard of that full field test, but also heard it can burn things up. I'll try it. If the alternator burns up, then I'll get another one. Hopefully that hole isn't blocked by my cylinder head.


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(2463 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 07, 2014 05:18PM

Mike, You can do the bench bleeding on the car. Just loosen the brake line fitting slightly one line at a time. Have container or stack of rags underneath. Have a helper push the pedal down to the floor and hold it. Tighten fitting and do the same on the other one. You may have to do it 2 or 3 times. Don't let the master cylinder get low. Then do normal bleeding, starting with farthest from master cylinder. Right rear, then left rear, then passenger front, then driver front normally.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2014 05:21PM by mgb260.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 07, 2014 06:07PM

[youtu.be]

Not sure if this link will work, but I'll try.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/2014 01:27PM by Addicted.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 07, 2014 06:11PM

[youtu.be]

This isn't a great video, but the sound is more representative.


mgb260
Jim Nichols
Sequim,WA
(2463 posts)

Registered:
02/29/2008 08:29PM

Main British Car:
1973 MGB roadster 260 Ford V8

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 07, 2014 07:24PM

Mike, Car looks and sounds great!


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 12, 2014 10:50AM

Here are some pictures of how the underside turned out. You will see I added a 3/16 plate and large washer to the center of my k-member. The thin k-member was really beat up from years of jack use. The plate gives a nice solid surface to lift under, and the washer is sized to fit a bottle jack in the center or floor jack around the outside. I usually use a bottle jack on my lift, and it's nice having a secure spot to locate it.

Above the axel, the tail pipes are about 1.5" from my fuel tank. I decided to put some insulation on them. In my usual fashion, I have two different styles on of insulation to see which one works better. Driver side has aluminum faced fiberglass, and the passenger side has header wrap. So far, both are working just fine.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2019 08:48AM by Addicted.


kscharf
Ken Scharf
Ontario Canada
(6 posts)

Registered:
11/25/2013 03:41PM

Main British Car:
1980 TR7

authors avatar
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: kscharf
Date: May 13, 2014 01:06PM

What a great build...Congrats Mike...



Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 13, 2014 01:29PM

Thanks. My wife is probably wondering why this was done in 6 months, but the bathroom isn't done after several years. Oh well.


danmas
Dan Masters
Alcoa, Tennessee
(578 posts)

Registered:
10/28/2007 12:11AM

Main British Car:
1974 MGBGT Ford 302

authors avatar
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: danmas
Date: May 13, 2014 01:33PM

Quote:
My wife is probably wondering why this was done in 6 months, but the bathroom isn't done after several years.

Do you have a good answer, one that she will accept? If so, please share it, we all could use it.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 13, 2014 01:56PM

Hah, not really. My kids are convinced I ordered an entire car via UPS and FedEx boxes.



I've driven the car about 10 miles now. Once the bugs are worked out and I quit worrying about it, it is going to be a very fun car.

The alternator seems to be doing ok now. I snugged up the belt, so maybe that was part of the problem. It still takes quite a while to get going (voltage goes up really slowly after startup), but it does get there eventually.

The brakes are going to be fine. The passenger side front caliper still had some air coming out on my last bleeding attempt. The other three are finally flowing with no bubbles. Even as they are now, the brakes feel incredible compared to the stock TR7 setup.


bsa_m21
Martin Rothman
Vancouver, Canada
(216 posts)

Registered:
01/06/2009 11:41AM

Main British Car:
1980 TR7V8 Rover 3.9L

authors avatar
Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: bsa_m21
Date: May 14, 2014 10:05AM

Looks great Mike!

Question - How loud are those pipes?

On my V8 conversion, I did a two into one, with resonator and muffler. Sounds great with the top down, but is very loud in the cab with the top up at 60mph (a deep drone). I'm thinking I might look for something to quiet everything down.

(My build: [forum.britishv8.org] )

M.


Addicted
Mike Hagadorn
Warren PA
(132 posts)

Registered:
09/27/2013 03:46PM

Main British Car:
1976 TR7 Victory Edition Ford 302

Re: Mike's TR7 Ford repower project
Posted by: Addicted
Date: May 14, 2014 01:41PM

Martin,
I've looked at your thread quite a bit over the past several months. Your car looks great.

Mine turned out quieter than I expected and I would say it's worth trying that muffler type. (Magnaflow XL). I used part number 13265, which was the biggest one I could fit. The bigger the muffler volume, the quieter it is (for the same style muffler). I linked a couple youtube videos earlier in this thread, if you didn't notice them.

I need to make a decision on rear end gears, so I was paying attention to noise at different cruise speeds. I consider it to be very quiet on the road up to a certain RPM (probably 2200-2400). My tach isn't working, so I can't give a good answer on that. I should receive my tach signal adapter today, so it should be working soon.

I had a monza exhaust when I was running the stock 2.0 engine, and it seemed quite a bit louder and almost annoying on the road compared to my new setup.

There are quite a few things I need to dial in and fine tune, but the exhaust isn't one of them. I had planned on adding additional mufflers in the middle of the car if I needed them, but that's one thing I won't need to do.
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