Triumph Sports Cars

Got a pricing answer from TWM on their F.I. bodies.
Kind of expensive at this time, but probably the best available answer if I can swing the swag to pay for them.
If I go this route I will have more into the engine than the rest of the car, and I started with a virtually FREE engine!

"The 3 BBL bodies are being phased out but we still have a few sets available..46mm only which is perfect for you.

2 x 46mm 3bbl Bodies with Integrated Fuel Rails
TPS with plug and pins
6 x Fuel Injectors for your HP and RPM needs
$1940 Delivered to RENO".

Anyone familiar with OBX Racing ITB's?
Available on Fee-Bay for about $100.00 each.

Not sure why the prior post showed up twice.

Editing with a minor update.
Got some calipers today so I can do more work on the brakes.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/21/2016 02:24AM by Richard/SIA.

Moved all my CNC stuff to a new shop so now have all the cars in the old shop.
NEVER want to do a move like this again!

Have almost completed the rear adapter to put the body on my rotisserie.
Front does not need any adapter.
Will put up a pic once the welds are finished.

Still have to set the two post lift up.
Did reinforce my frame stands so that they will be safer with the engine and trans in place.

Lost too much production time I need to make up, so probably not much to report for the couple of weeks.

Here is the nearly complete rear attachment frame.
The raised hoop bolts to the rear body mounts.
The two angle iron extensions will go to the trailing arm mounts.

Test 2

Shop move nearly complete so time for a pic.
Still need to complete the two post lift install but the hard part is done.

Now to trial fit the engine again to see if the Weber style throttle bodies will clear the bonnet.
If they will the next task becomes saving funds for the purchase.

Two post lift completed.
Also bought some aluminum rear uprights that use Sierra hubs.
They came with new CV boots and a set of new axles I may be able modify for my use.

Now to get some free time to actually do work on the Trick-6 again.

Playing around with my new rear uprights I got some rough numbers to try in my simulation software.
Frustrating wast of time to work with guess's.
Got better numbers and tried them in Speed-Wiz.

I can get very good numbers and avoid positive camber entirely for bump and lift, but no matter what I try I cannot seem to avoid negative camber on the out-side wheel in body roll.
Probably missing something basic, but what?
Or am I seeking the impossible for a simple upper and lower A arm setup?
So far I've mostly kept the lower arm level and played around with upper arm length, and some variation in inner pivot point heights.

Looked at my frame and the numbers I was happiest with.
Looks like a simple set of cross-mounts and reinforcement will work.
May also be able to attach the upper diff mounts to them.

A bit of refinement and I may be able to start making parts soon.

Closing in on my design.
Looks like I will be shortening the aluminum uprights I bought.
From 10" bolt to bolt vertically to 8.5".
This will also reduce the kick at the top around .75", need to fixture them for better measurements.

Still wrestling with weather or not to use equal length upper and lower arms?
Upper mount can be whatever I need, lower is pretty well dictated by the frame width, about 9" long max.
I have some pretty good numbers using equal length arms but am not getting the type of camber change I want.

Looks like the lower shock mount will have to be to the top of the outer end of the rear arm link.
Not ideal but lets me retain the original upper mount.

Speaking of the arms, my plan is bushes at the inside and rose joints for adjustment on the outer ends.
Would actually prefer bushes at both ends but the adjustable type I would need do not appear to be available in a correct size and would be a real chore to make myself.

I may have to complete the upright mods in order to take another run at the upper arm geometry.

Not sure if this was a good move or not, but I just bought another nearly complete GT6.
Turns out to be a '68 so not a Plus.
Has sat for a long time but the engine turns over and the drive-train is complete.
Probably sell-off what I cannot use.

Been practicing my CAD, now almost good enough at it to draw up my own IDA-3 to motorcycle ITB adapters.
Cheapest way out for FI bodies and the CAD-CAM will be essentially free.

Of course the MS control and other hardware is still expensive.

Richard, Glad to hear your going with the Triumph throttle bodies. Hard to beat for bang for the buck. I read on one build they used VW injectors. Are you going to slant the adapters so the TB's are straight up?

Trying to squeeze out more time to practice my CAD.

Actually got this pretty well drawn up, but in an obsolete CAD program.
Now trying to learn a much new CAD software.
And yes my intent has been to angle the mounting face so that the FI bodies are vertical.

I've also been looking into other FI TB's.
Found some that are larger, and some that are also round all the way through.
Trying to get samples of each type to design around.
BMW units are bit expensive but may have some real advantages for linkage.

Now have a Fadal 15 to make the adapters on.

Been to busy to do physical work on the Trick-6, but that has not stopped my scheming!

Some time ago I bought an MSII 3.0 and additional parts on the cheap.
Seller apologized that he could not find the ECU.
Now he has found it, and is sending it to me next week.
So the bike F.I. bodies to Inglese IDA manifold conversion is back on the active project list.
Hoping I can make a simple adapter plate that the Porsche and Corvair crowd might also like.
There is a version already available but it's a very expensive Porsche specific kit.

Got the MS II today.
So here is where I am at right now.

Engine, 3.8 Buick V6 normally aspirated.
Intake is Inglese IR meant for Weber IDA-3's.
"Budget" EFI solution is Bike EFI bodies on custom adapters.
MS II 3.0 control hooked up an EDIS 6 and coil pack.

Not sure about wide or narrow band, or if injectors will high or low impedence.
Those are items I still need to buy.

I found a NOS 5" 36-1 timing wheel on feeBay for cheap.
What I have going here should eventually yield a distributor-less ignition and I.R. EFI.

My concern for the moment is that this is a freshly built engine with no prior run time.
So I'm thinking I need to run it in on a carb and maybe even a distributor before getting into "Tuning" a custom Ign/EFI system.

I suppose the Ignition should be simple and reliable enough that I may be able start and run without the distributor.
I would prefer that as I am hoping to use a Rover front cover and oil pump.
Changing covers may mean changing pulley sets.
Once run in I should be safe to swap the intake to the IR EFI.
Hoping I can find some "Maps" that will be close but I'm not seeing a lot of IR EFI in use for reference.

ACK!
Looking for am electric water pump to make mounting the alternator easier.
Moroso kit looks a bit flaky and bulky.
Mezier would be nice if it did not have a 4X price over ANY other unit! (Rover tax?)
SBC, BBC, SBF, Mopar, right around $200 or less.
BOP, $450!

No blankety-blank way that is justified.
Once the CNC program is written it's just time and material.
Not that much more time, and not that much more material.

I may just design my own adapter, then buy a $100.00 Summit racing SBC unit for the motor and impeller.

Reluctantly moving the Trick-6 back in the pecking order as it still needs a fair amount of creative engineering to make visible progress.
I will be working on the F.I. system and electric water pump to complete the engine over summer but suspension will probably have to wait for next winter.

For the moment I am going to concentrate on the '68 El Camino/327 Muncie/Jag IRS and Alfa Romeo powered Dio Tipo.
Right after I have the few remaining '79 Alfa Romeo Spider details sorted so that I have more than a one-ton truck to drive each day.
No or very little scratch design required for any of these.

Been unable to do much on the Trick-6 but not at a complete stop.
At $2K+ for the TWM throttle bodies I'm learning/experimenting with CAD to see about fitting the Triumph 955 throttle bodies.

Coming along fairly well, particularly as I hardly know what I am doing!

Back from the dead?

FINALLY got "Lucky" and found a set of IDA-3's for "Only" $999.00!
40mm but they should work OK.
They are the easier answer since I no longer have my CNC machines.

Now, about jetting?

Trick-6 is not the main priority at the moment but I am pleased to get the carbs at last.
They were really the last major single expense.