Triumph Sports Cars

Rotisserie purchase tapped me out for a while so I've done some work with material already on hand.

Here's a pic of the passenger side first layer of frame reinforcement.



These tubes will be plug welded at intervals to the sides and bottom of the chassis channel.
Also to each other.
Then a third tube goes on top for the outside edge.
Finally it will all be boxed over.

This will add some weight but it's down low and will probably be stronger than original.
Only way I could find to make a T5 fit.

So on the day after Christmas I got some sunshine to work with.
Made the most of it and finished bending my reinforcements, then drilled most of the holes for plug welding them in place.
Have to flip the frame for a few more holes but may be able to begin welding on Thursday.


No, not for lightening. :-)
Tubes will be welded at the sides and bottom, as well as to each other.
Once the bottom layer is in place I will trial fit the engine again before fitting the top tubes which I may have to notch in a couple of places.
Final step will be boxing it all over with sheet metal.


Mig welds at each inch should be pretty solid.


Most holes done for both sides.


Reinforcements loosely fitted.

With the bottom set of frame reinforcement tubes welded in I set the engine/trans in place to see what might be needed in mods for the top tube.

Looked like just a couple of dings on the passenger side would do it.
Came to the conclusion that the engine was canted down at the front a couple of degrees.
Raised the front of the engine one inch and all sorts of chassis clearance issues disappeared.

Decided it was time to see how the body fitment was going to work with my planned engine placement.
Found that the engine will be inside the current firewall about two inches at the right bank after leaving clearance for motion.
Will have to do some trimming for width too.
Steering column looks like it may be challenging, need to find some good pics of BOPR conversions as they should be very similar.

Have to make more measurements of the engine installed height.
I may just barely be able to remain under the bonnet without cutting it.
That is a real goal that may force me to put the engine back down that last inch.
Looking for a more compact air cleaner, maybe a remote unit and carb hat?
I've even had wild thoughts of converting the fresh air intake at the cowl into a ram-air system similar to what my El Camino has.
Wondering if there might be a shorter carb available?

OK, the engine is at it's final location.
1" further forward and 3/4" lower than yesterday.
Cannot go any more forward and remain behind the steering rack, cannot go any lower.

Finally lowered the body onto the chassis with the engine mocked up, in stages.
Lower, cut sheet-metal, lower some more, cut some more until it all clears.
No I do not make drawings in advance, I work it out as I go.

This is barely working out in my LHD car, RHD would not do as well.
Left engine bank barely let me retain the lower portion of the firewall that I need for the gas pedal, but I did have to cut away at the top.
Right bank sits further back and required more trimming, had to make room for the exhaust header too.
Battery will have to be relocated and I think I may be able to adapt a modern flat air filter to fit in the remains of the old battery location.
Good thing the passenger does not need as much foot room since they have no pedals to push.

Will have to reinforce the cuts as they noticeably weaken the cowl.

With just slightly thicker than stock body mounts, using a steel square from the face of the engine to the top of the scuttle, it looks like the carb will fit under the stock bonnet with NO cutting!!!!!!

From here I should be able to do my final chassis reinforcement welds, flatten a couple of spots in the tubes, and box it all in.
Have to cut and box a curve in the top of the front cross-member to clear the crank dampener.
Engine and trans mounts can be completed now too.
Firewall work will be fairly extensive but if I can bend square tube it should not be too bad.
May have to use round tube but would prefer square for ease of attaching the new trans cover.

Steering column will need a couple of joints and a support but looks like it will not be as bad as I feared.

Nothing is pretty yet but I will try to get a pic in the morning.

OK, pics.







Side view, top of the air cleaner should just clear since the GT-6 has a factory power bulge.

Just reviewed all the Spit/GT6 BOP-R build threads I could find.
Looked at those as the Buick V6 is very similar, just two cylinders shorter.
Apparently I've made this much harder by insisting on setting the engine back behind the steering rack and not cutting the bonnet.
Next few days build are welding jobs.
Complete the chassis reinforcement and tack in the engine/trans mounts.

With that finally done I will be in better shape to go after the front suspension and steering.

Richard, A few years ago as I was collecting info for my Spitfire build I came across a GT6 convertible with a Buick 215 that the owner stretched 8 inches by adding 8 inches to the frame in front of the fire wall and behind the front shock towers. I can't find the picture of it but it looked really good used a GT6 bonnet and added 8 inches to it. Attached are some pics of my Spit:

Frame reinforcement tubes are finally in.
Not pretty but once I welded them full length to the chassis rails internally and to each other the frame feels very solid.
Prior to welding it had a lot of similarities to a tuning fork.

Still have to dimple the upper tube on the passenger side and then weld in the plate to box it all.

I clamped the chassis to my leveled stands before doing the heavy welding in hope that it would help to prevent twisting,
Will have a look after it cools.

Extending the chassis would certainly make fitting the engine easier but would also make a long narrow wheelbase/track.
Trying to keep this looking as stock externally as possible.

Engine mounts are in!
Transmission side of the trans mount is made!

Still have to complete the chassis side of the trans mount.
Trans mount is being much more complex than the engine mounts.
The funny Camaro T5 mount angle is NOT a help.

I will also be reinforcing the engine mounts a bit.
They are not "solid" mounts but are overbuilt.
Pretty sure the engine is now a frame stiffener.

Pics in a couple more days after the final frame reinforcements are fully welded.

I'm pretty sure my GT6 has been stretched by a previous owner. I can take measurements when I get back off of this trip if you'd like

Engine and trans mounts are all in at last.
Ended up welding in the trans mount despite my desire to bolt it on.
Really would not have been able to get to the top of the bolts anyway.
Trying to keep future service in mind without having to remove the body for things like changing the clutch.

Major frame mods are almost complete.
One more set of flat strips to go on the passenger side and a notch in the front cross-member.
From there I will be able to rotate the frame for only a little final welding of mounts.

Not all of the welds are pretty but they are strong.
Thinking of using a little body sealer for cosmetics, rather than more welding?

Should b ready for pics in a couple more days.

Drivers side now boxed, the more complex passenger side is almost done.
Not pretty but the frame has never been this solid before.
There are three 1" tubes in there plus the flat stock boxing it over.






Second design for the rear trans mount.
I've tried to keep at least 1/2" clearance for anything that might move around a bit.
Used oversize mounts to make that sufficient.
Kind of pleased with my use of the original exhaust cut-out to be able to reach the trans retaining bolt.

Finally got the last of the passenger side boxed tonight.
Still have to grind and touch up some welds but it's a major milestone in the build.

Now I should be able to turn the frame on it's side or upside down for the remaining small welds.

With the engine and trans mounting complete I will be able to get back into the diff mounting and rear suspension.

Richard, You could replace the carb spacer with the 3/8" thick multi-layer gasket for more hood clearance. Have you done any more work on the throttle body adapters?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2016 03:37PM by mgb260.

Not sure what will happen with my work space in the new year so I have concentrated on the chassis.
Originally it was shared to keep expense down.
Now carrying it alone which is eating up the parts budget.
Hoping the new year does better but the news is full of financial gloom and doom.

Carb will be much simpler than F.I. so I'm starting with that and hoping the I.R. setup can be done later.

Finally got the last of the useless frame brackets and reinforcements from the prior butcher job removed.
Did a little more welding so nearly done with that until I start on the rear IRS.
Have to repair the cord on my grinder but getting close to being able to clean, prime, and seam seal most of the frame.
Bought silver acrylic enamel for the frame, firewall, and under the bonnet.

What I hoped would be the last trial fit of the drive-train turns out to be the next to last?
Happily it all goes in and out of the mounts pretty easily.

Have to make one more set of frame notches to clear the oil pan under the timing cover.
Good news is that everything else clears well and I can even get the starter in and out from underneath.

Last set of front cross-member notches work fine but I may modify them a little for appearance and to be less of a dirt trap.

Now mocking up the rear diff position and mounts.

Also began to work on lower A arm mounts.
Have some pics similar to my plan I've saved from various sites which I need to review.
Recently got a spare Merkur diff for $50.00.

If rain and snow ever end I will get some updated pics.

Only recent progress has been finagling the rear brake conversion to work with the Merkur diff and axles.
Upright is going to be custom, hoping to do a billet version similar to TVR M series.
Or I can make life easier and just fabricate them in steel.

Using Merkur bolt-on rear stub axles, 4x108 which is the same as My Alfa Spider.
Focus rear rotors are a direct fit, I'm using the 10" dia.
Looking like Audi A4 aluminum calipers.
I may have to swap sides to mount them at the front since my shocks go to the rear.
Seems a reasonable answer to get functional parking brakes at under $100.00 each.
Not looking to use the Merkur Scorpio calipers due to cost, somewhat difficult to locate, and cast iron.

Need the rear brake system sorted out in order to finish the upright and A arm designs.

Not able to do much with having to move the shop.
Hate to lose the space but will save $8K a year that should be going to parts.

Did play with the MC throttle bodies a bit more.
Have decided that trying to bore the bottom round is not likely to be practical.
They are quite thin walled and would end up even thinner with very narrow sealing surfaces.
All that before I can even get them to being truly round.

Now wondering about BMW ITB's, anyone have more info on them?
Not as cheap as the MC bits, around $300.00 for a set.
Thinking they may be just a bit larger?