Triumph Sports Cars

Cut up some C channel aluminum and made some hold down brackets for the radiator.






Ground down after tig welding to get a nice finish.



Just need to drill the hole for the body mount.

This is one awesome Tig welding machine. A Miller 165 Diversion...a very user friendly welder, just turn the dial to the thickness you want to weld, flip the switch to AC or DC mode, and turn on your gas between 15 and 20 psi....then weld ..it's that easy. There is a small wheel control to fine tune as you weld on the torch handle. You can order a foot pedal control that will plug in the front panel. This machine will not arc weld with stick.



Welded another C channel to the back side so that the bracket could be welded on the radiator. You can also see how much more of an angle for the hose connection, for the bottom of radiator.



Tack welded in 3 places.....2 on one side and 1 on the other side.








Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/03/2009 08:53PM by 74ls1tr6.

This is the driver side of the radiator.



Radiator mounted on the body mount studs and will use a body mount rubber washer under the radiator bracket.



Passanger side mounted the same way. Probably be able the use this bracket to hold down some of the AC equipment running passed this area.



Looking down on the passanger side mounting bracket. Can see the 1 tack weld on this side to the radiator.

After doing all the aluminum tig welding on the radiator brackets, changed the pure green label tunsten tip out to orange label tungsten tip 2% ceriated (in the torch handle)....flipped the switched to DC mode ,welded a bead around the ends of this stainless steel lower radiator tube...so that the hose won't slip off like all the other hose ends.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/02/2009 08:21PM by 74ls1tr6.

Calvin, how much did that Miller set you back? Just the machine, not the bottle.

Jim

Paid $1280.00 on sale at my local welding supply house. I rent the bottle. I have a business account with them. E-bay will have them for $1314. and up some have the pedal. The pedal will set you back around $140. The wheel thumb control works fine for me to fine tune when your welding.

Here it is on E-bay

[cgi.ebay.com]

Well you have been doing some very nice work with it. At the rate you are going it may not be long before you are getting the kind of welds we see on production jobs. It seems you have a talent for it.

Perhaps if my old blower set-up sells I'll get one.

Jim

I thought you were talking about a bottle of Miller....

Dan, A bottle of Miller does sound good right about now!

Jim, with your talent stick welding and I'm sure you have the talent with an oxygen/acetylene welder. Tig welding is like oxygen/acetylene. Just watch the puddle pool and move along and feed the rod in.

The Miller 165 Diversion is perfect for the garage hobbyist that doesn't need to tig weld anything over 1/4", can use the stick welder for those applications.

I hope you get your price for your blower and you can pick up one of these gems, you will wish you had it a long time ago like myself. The price is reasonable. If I wanted a tig machine that can do thicker materials, I would have went with a Lincoln Precision TIG 225, but the cost is much higher, plus with the Lincoln you need to know how to set it up (More critical settings to fine tune), where the Miller is way more user friendly.

every time you post something, i feel so inadequate...

how long do you reckon before the first test-fire?

Calvin,

Are you planning some top side support for the radiator? The hardware looks fantastic, but the front of the car takes a lot of vibration and a little support on the top of the radiator will extend the life span on the fantastic handy work.

Have a Miller on me! I'm good for it and will pay up when I move in.

Just so you know, you are making us all look bad.( Ok, I won't type for others, making me look bad)

Keep it up!

There is some C channel aluminum bracktes holding down the radiator on top a few posts back.

As for first test fire, maybe within a month or so.


This is the passenger side header that has a contact problem with the motor mount. Also the starter is on the same side. There is just enough room for the 2 1/2" down pipe to pass through.I was going to just let this fly at first until purchasing the Miller Tig welder. Have built up some confidence with the Miller (Mig would have made a big mess for this job), to hack up the header and lower the collector fange down about an 1 1/2". I did grind down the flange on the header and the flange on the down pipe to get first mock up fittment.
So here is the process I went through to get clearance.



The Hooker Header set came with these flange reducers, cut off the reducers, cleaned up both inside hole diameters to 2 1/2" tight fit on the 2 1/2" pipe. I was able to go by an exhaust shop close to my shop and pick up this scrap pipe to do the job for no cost. Used a air cut-off tool to do the cleaning, and a cutting torch to cut reducers off.



This photo shows the header and down pipe together. If I ran it this way it would have melted the bushing in the motor mount. Wasn't so happy about this.



Cut off the flange with an air cut-off tool without the safety gaurd on.(will show tool next post)





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2009 09:40PM by 74ls1tr6.

Here is the cut-off tool without the safety gaurd on, for cutting the flanges off plus cleaning the inside hole of the flange. A 3" cutting wheel used some that fit inside a 2 1/2" hole.



Pipe and Header in vise to tack weld on one side then the other making sure it came off the Header straight.



The ends results photo. Tig welded with mild steel rod an 1 1/2" at a time, then turn in vise for the next 1 1/2" until done.



Photo at a distance. I guess I will take some more photos with the flage welded on plus the down pipe ( I thought I did). Take the photos Sunday and post them.

This the plate that goes between the firewall and the brake booster. The pot aluminum finish can be cleaned up some to make look better. Since the build has some polished aluminum front runner parts, thought this part could match. So sanded down then took a buffing wheel with some Flitz polish, and went to town on it.



This is what it looked like when done.



Made this little nipple for the different size gas tank fill tubes. The larger one went to the gas fill cap, and the smaller one went to the gas tank fill hole. Tig welded a lip on the small side then welded a bead all the way around to make the nipple larger, and welded a lip on that side. Ground down a little to smooth out for a good seal with some clamps. Just need to pick up 4 clamps at the hardware store to finish this up.



Photo of the nipple in between the 2 fill hoses. 1 3/4" for small hose, 1 7/8" on large hose I believe. These hose's will be butt up against each other when clamped together. Photo just showed fittment.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2009 04:20AM by 74ls1tr6.

Here are the photo's of the passenger side header with the flange welded on. Different view and photo angles below.

Here is photo's of the down pipe re-welded with the flange lower. The weld that is in the opening at flange, was done with Tig, the weld inside was done with Mig, a big difference with heat control between the two.



Tig welded in 3 places around flange to tack on, then did the inside last.



Didn't use any fill for the flange to pipe, just melted the metal together. Also you can see the blow through with Mig welding inside.



Photo shows both flanges lowered down for end results to clear the motor mount. The pipe below the flange all the way back to mufflers is stainless steel pipe at 2 1/2". Today after taking this photo, I cut the pipe straight off just to the right of the O2 sensor, it was hitting the frame, so turned a 1/2" toward the background and Tig welded back up. Installed the header and down pipe on the engine to test fit, all is good now. Check one more off the list.

Photo shows where the header and down pipe had to go down through from the engine (passenger side). Both starter and motor mount are right there close. Both flanges were right on the bolt and motor mount by the red bushing.



Photo shows the cross member in to check for clearance with lower radiator hose. I did Tig weld the hole that was ground into the crossmember for a different thermostat housing, then re-painted the crossmember.



Other side of engine.



This is the fuel line and fitting connection at the fuel rail. The blue fuel line also has braided stainless steel under the blue cord braid. The cord is more forgiving if there is any rubbing going on than stainless steel.

This photo shows the fuel connections from the bottom of fuel tank to the pre-filter before fuel pump. Using 8 AN fiitings with larger size fuel line so that pump gets the fuel it needs and not starve it.




Using an Aremotive fuel pump that cools itself with the fuel.


After the fuel pump, comes out with 3/8" stainless steel hard line to a Corvette fuel regulator/filter/return all in one. Used 6 AN for return line back to the top of fuel tank, into the original fuel draw, so that I won't hear fuel splater.



Cut a hole int the body to use a 6 AN 90 degree fitting. The fuel line will run along frame rail to a 6 AN union for connection to 3/8" stainless steel line running up to engine compartment.

I went down to the Bay Area last Saturday in San Jose to pick up my "Surf Board" (Dash) from Randy Keller.(Prestige Autowood)408-288-8737
After looking at this sealed master piece, it does look like a surf board. The whole dash is sealed front and back.. The glove box door has the same wood on the back side so when you open the door, same wood grain.

The white lettering for the "LIGHTS" is under all the finish so it will never peal off like the original.

The only raw wood exposed is inside the screw holes.

The extra gauge is an Oil Temp gauge. Gauges are Autometer Phantom II all electric.

Got rid of all the warning lights.

I also have the matching Plinth(wood) backing that will be in the recess of the plinth.The two screws that hold the plinth center section in will hold the wood in place. In the plinth area I will be installing the Vintage Air controls and maybe some switches and maybe warning lights.

The wood is called Kawsinga (SP) African Rosewood, was able to pick the grain I wanted. I'm more than pleased with Randy's work.
He hand block sanded all the way up to 1500 sandpaper, every 5" of work, another piece of sandpaper goes on the block sander.

"Amazing Work Randy" I would recommend anyone who wants a professional looking wood dash, use Randy. You know the solid dashes that Moss motor's has well Randy makes them for Moss.

I just can't say enough!

















Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2009 10:04AM by 74ls1tr6.

Had to cut out the inner fender for the AC compressor on the passenger side and re-do. I did tack weld with the Mig welder, then Tig welded the whole piece in without any blow through at all. Didn't have to stich weld like MIg, just started and keep going all the way around. There wasn't any warping of the metal at all. It was a slow process but way less work for clean up. One pass instead of many on the other side.



Here is the back side photo. There is not way I could have done this with my Mig welder and look this clean with no clean up. The Tig welder can control heat very well, did grind the Tungsten tip to a sharp point which will focus the heat better.



The steering bracket is installed now!



The plate on the back side for the bracket!.. Look at the Mig mess on this side. Big difference.