Triumph Sports Cars

Here is a couple of photo's of the engine compartment coming along.

Me like.
That's going to be a whole heap of fun when it's finished.

We need to start working on a mid-point (East-West Coast) event, meeting, gathering, shoot out between Alan, Kenny, and Calvin's LS-TR6(250).

St. Louis?

3500 miles would be a good break in period.

I'll even throw in my Ford 5.0 just to keep you three honest.(maybe I'll have my frame transplant done)

That's really looking GOOD!

Topeka, KS?

Nice Stripes (Ghost - I like that term - might have to have some like that on my Griff).

Hot Rod Lane. I had alot of dealings with Mark.

This thread continues to provide exciting / intriguing photos. Great job, Calvin!

It is starting to look more like a whole car again. I was getting tired of putting together, take apart, put together, take apart tasks.

It is fun assembling and to see results finally.

Today! installed the front windshield in the frame, proceeded installing the assembly on the car.

All the plumbing is done on the gas tank, gas fill tube, and gas filler cap is done. Front and back bumper are done, all outside light fixtures are done.

All that is left to do in the engine compartment is the brake booster, steering shaft/column, and master cylinder.

The next major task will be the wiring from Advamce Auto Wire. Once that is done, it will be startup time with some tuning sessions.

I having a brand new panel kit getting worked over by the the guy who did my Miata seats. He will re-do the panels to match the seat color. He will also cover the center support for the dash.


Believe it or not, the Durago next to the TR6 has the same paint code, they don't look like the same color in this photo(below), maybe because the TR6 is under the awning,










The front fenders, I need to close the gap closer to the hood, by loosening the bolts, moving inward, then tighen up for final fitment.



"I had fun changing my avatar again"

WOW

Congrats, the long journey is almost finished and the joy of the experience will build with each drive!

Just leave the keys in the kitchen.

I have a 70 triumph gt6 my dad and I restored with some modifications. I would like to take the body and set it on another car, resto mod it, does anyone know if a gt6 body will fit on any of the TRs, or any other car. the wheel base is so short, 83 inches, hard to find a match.

Have been getting alot of little stuff done. Need to make a list to be more organized.

Installed the exhaust tips that are 2.5" dual exit.



Didn't extend to far out but in the end results looks good.



Working on the Advanced Auto wire kit, mounted on the firewall where the battery went from the factory.Re-located battery to the trunk. Will have some photo's of that soon posted.



Ran a 2 gauge wire from the battery (in the trunck), connected to a disribution block in the engine compartment. The block setup is 2 gauge in 4 8 gauge out. One 8 gauge wire to the Advanced Auto Wire fuse block, one connector 8 gage reducer up to 4 gauge wire going to the alternator running through a anl sealed fuse & holder (used 250 amp anl fuse), one 4 gauge blue wire going to the starter. There will be one extra for whatever is needed later.

Welded up to brackets to hold distribution block & anl fuse holder. Used the original bolts that holds in the brake peddal box assembly. Then drilled and tapped for screws into aluminum to hold in place.

The 4 gauge blue wire is not connected yet to the power block, waiting for some reducers.

Here is some other photo's of that area and how it is looking.


A different view of the distribution block and anl fuse holder.



Here is the connection to the alternator. Also showing some of the dual steering joints.



Photo showing the stainless steel brake lines and using a Wilwood proporsionate(sp?) valve for the back brakes.



Photo of wire bundles going through the firewall to the passenger compartment.

Ran the bundle of wires a different way than stock to the front. These wires would be for the radiator fan, turn signals, head lights, running lights, and horns. I did repalce the horns for my original ones were toast.



Should be able to cover some of these wires with some split loom, even have blue to match :-)



Some high and low hertz horns.One high and one low. I did take and totally rebuild the front grill, painted with por 15 chassis black for uv protection.



I installed a GM connector for the radiator connection.

Here is a racing battery that doesn't weight much compaired to a standard battery. It's all mounted and surounded by aluminum. The ground is connected to the old lever shock mount bolt on the frame. I will need to make several grounding straps from the frame to the body, then to the engine block.



Here is the routing of the 2 gauge positive wire that ran up to the distribution block in the engine compartment.



Made a aluminum piece to fit in the body which will add a little strenght to this area + hold some speakers. There will be an interior panel covering this up. Also a little something inbetween the fuel cell & passenger compartment. I did cut out the triangular pieces by the wheel wells and the floor here from the factory.



Will wire in this inersha (sp?) switch to cut off power to the fuel pump in case of an accident.



Trying to keep busy on this build, but the heat lately has been kicking my arse. We are running triple digit weather here.

Made a bracket to hold the Wilwood proporsionate valve in place using original threaded holes in the body. Then welded another piece on the sheet, taped and threded to mount.



Vintage air mounted in.



Welded up a aluminum bracket to hold computer in place under passenger side foot well.On the left side of the computer (below photo) you can see where the heater lines & ac lines come through firewall. I need to install a pass through for the computer hook-up blocks.



Just an update for who is watching this build :-) I'm sweating now. Going camping and fishing this week for R&R :-)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/19/2010 11:17PM by 74ls1tr6.

Looking good Calvin. I think I may be a little ahead of you -- if you don't count the fact that the brake lines I made are leaking in 2 of every 3 connection points. I'm going to have to redo all the lines.

Wow - that passenger compartment looks tight.
I guess I'll have to drive instead...

Seriously, it's getting there. Looks good.

I love it! Just supports what BLM could have done.
You Rock!
My TR6 is body off, new comp going on, may have ready by Oct.

It really looks good Calvin. Only one suggestion, on those brake lines to the master cylinder. There is no provision for line expansion and proper hydraulic routing would include that. Typically that means some sort of overbend and return rather than a straight bend. With that small of a line it may not matter, but on a critical item like that you might want to take another look.

JB

Update!

The engine has been updated with PRC ls6 243 stage 2.5 fully cnc ported heads, comps cam 228/228 duration 588/588 lift 112 lsa, 7.35 chromolly push rods, arp rod bolts, ls6 ported oil pump, ls7 lifters, comp rocker updated bearings, and etc

Did a cold start after most of my wiring is done with the Advance Auto wire kit. This engine sounds pretty heathy now! I know it will be a hand full, and a learning curve to drive this beast. Oil pressure at start up ran 50psi. All gauges work except speedo, need to calibrate on the road. The Advanced Auto kit wire was fun to learn for the first time wiring a whole car. The wire used is very high grade, when using heat shrink on the wire with mini torch did even faze the outer covering at all.

Still moving along, and I'm not sitting still for sure.



Enjoy!!






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2010 05:54PM by 74ls1tr6.

Calvin,

I'm at the stage where I'm ordering my Woodward steering parts. Why did use a double universal joint instead of a single u-joint at this location?

Thanks,

George