Triumph Sports Cars

More pictures.







Did a litle bending on the bracket for the cable alignment.Plenty of clerance all around.


Don Watson's brackets saved me tons of time not having to mic it out and take to a machine shop. I could have made these myself...have about 8 years of machining under my belt...but don't have access to any cnc milling machines.

More pictures.

Looking Good! Congrats my friend!

"Thanks again Don"

OK ....Picture shows rear stock height HD spring on left from TRF...RGoods HD lowering spring on right.

A NO brainer for me which one will give you better handling car....Go 4 wheeling look or nice sports car look.

These are the back springs in these pictures below...In the morning the front will go in...with the LS1 and transmission in the frame and mounted...the suspension was all the way up...I was standing on the front of the frame bar before the steering rack was on and moving it up and down with my weight.... barley could get the suspension to go down. I weight 212. Thats just not right or this LS1 engine is way lite.

I believe the front will go down where it needs to be with RGoods front springs.

Try this, lay a garbage bag under each tire before you put the weight on them and then bounce it. The tires have to move sideways a little to let the suspension work and the lower profile tires resist this more than the original ones.

Your LS1 may be as light as the original six. If that turns out to be the case, perhaps the Roadmaster project could make use of your spare springs. We have a set of TR6 springs which are taller than MGB and they may be just right, or they may need to be stiffer. We won't know know until Dale finishes with the engine.

Jim

Jim...Great idea ..I will try that once I get the Ls1 back into frame along with tranny.

I have had these (rear) TR6 comp springs since late 70s and never installed them..the kind that are not finished at one end (cut to length type).... In the picture below next to standard TRF HD (rear springs). Standard TR6 spring (rear) and the TRF HD (rear) spring will give about an 1" higher ride because of being HD in the TR6.



This picture shows that the comp springs are larger diameter. Comp spring is 4" 290 diameter. The spring thickness is 600 thousands. The TRF is 560 thousands (spring thickness)and diameter of almost 4" or 3" 967 tho. Rgoods front spring is 536 thousands thick and diameter of 4" 70 thousands.

I also have a full set of stock front and back springs for the TR6. I did at one time stand the TRF and stock spring together and they are the same height.

It sounds like you have a good selection to play around with. First chance I get I'll measure wire diameter, coil diameter and height of the ones I have on hand.

Jim

Installing RGoods Axles with CV joints.

I had to take out the differential to intstall the new CV axles. Took a drill at fast rpm with a 4" dia 80 grit sandpaper wheel,cleaned out the trail arm axle hole, so CV axle wouldn't touch...a very close tolerance. Also had to use a dremel tool with mini grinding wheel, shave off washer and allen bolt, that held on CV boot cover. Drilled out new hub to 3/8ths for trailing arm hub studs. They came with 5/16ths holes.


After cleaning out. Did not touch where the hub seats into trailing arm.




Before cleaning out.








Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/15/2008 09:46AM by 74ls1tr6.

Can see the difference in stock hub to the CV hub. The allen bolts that secured the CV boot were ground down to match the diameter of the CV housing. This eliminated the majority of the rubing inside the trailing arm.

Don W ,...the hub will go all the way into the trailing arm passed the brake brackets. Good to have the hub inside the trailing arm instead of the brake bracket only.




By the looks of this hub, it was a 5 bolt pattern made into a 4 bolt pattern. One on the stud holes were drilled out for tighening hub nut with socket.




Don't need to use the adapter with the CV axles. Made for the 5 bolt and 6 bolt pattern of the R200 differential.

The 2 stainless steel 3/8ths fuel line and return sticking out. Need to finish installing high pressure inline fuel pump with before and after fuel filters that are inline also. Need to feed the Ls1 with high pressure lines, no barbed fitting or hoses. Will be using all AN fittings.




As seen here a very tight fit, maybe about 100 thousands clearance.






I like this better than the stock axles. I feel more confident now with the all that has been done in this area ( coil overs, disk brakes, CV axles, lowering springs, Goodrich braded brake lines, and rear adjustable sway bar). The over all difference in weight was about 3 pounds heavier. I can live with that.The rotor on the floor needs the 2 hold down screw holes drilled and the other side rotor also.

*Note: Don't have the Goodrich braded brake lines installed when you do any welding on your frame. They will ground out. Yes I did fry one of them, got smoking red hot. I did replace the smoker. Was welding and smelled something burning, not a normal welding smell, took face sheald off and saw the line glowing pretty good, my remark "new one coming up".

Hi Calvin,

Absolutely beautiful work so far! You're inspiring me to really get on with the research for my own V8 swap!

I sent you an email a little while ago regarding a different question, but just looking over all your pics again, something occured to me.

Probably a silly question, but have you trial fitted where the seats are going to be with the body on the chassis? Looking at the very first pic, it looks like the shift lever is going to be really far down, near your waist almost? I measured the t56 at the salvage yard and thought it might be too long, is why I ask.

Keep rockin and good luck!

Hi Martin, and welcome to BritishV8.org.

I recieved your PM with questions? Maybe I can answer some of those questions here for you.

"Yes" the T56 transmission in a loooong one. I figured the shifter would be set back about 10 (corection 8 1/4" ) inches from stock (shifter handle). I found a part that I just recieved in the mail yesterday that will help that measurement a little. Taking where I positioned the Ls1 in the engine bay. I used Corvette dampaner instead of the Camaro dampaner pullies. I was able to move the engine forward another 1"1/2 closer to the steering rack mount bar. The front Corvette dampaner pully is 1/2" away from the steering rack frame bar. I wanted belt clearance, for changing belt for later use.

The Transmission mounting bracket from the 74 TR6 is stock, mounted to the T56 using the original rubber mount(One bolt) from the Camaro fit perfectly. It used the back 2 holes in the stock frame mount of the TR6. No modifications at all.

The stock oil pan 2002 Camaro I used, was 1/2 inch below frame crossmember. My hood will clear the engine with no cutting of the hood. Ken H didn't need to cut his hood either I believe. He just did it for more air flow.

I have some pictures that Ken H sent me that I'm sure he wouldn't mind if I posted here of the same thoughts I had (shifter handle).








[www.hotrodlane.cc]

I found this shifter relocater on the site above about half way down the page in the middle. It moves the shifter location 4'' and 1/8th forward which would make that about 6' (corection 4") back from stock. This would be liveable for me.




This is Kens car with seats in. He is running the T56 also. I have the 2002 T56 and he has the 1994 T56 using a slave cylinder for clutch. The 2002 just has a braded line attached at the side of case.

Ken had to move the E-brake back a little as I will also, not a problem.

I think with the shifter relocater, mine will be a little closer to the dash than Kens.

I will post some more when I get back. Need to pick up Brenda from the office today. "soon"

Calvin



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2008 08:59AM by 74ls1tr6.

This picture was taken in the dark as you can see, but the oil pan was only a 1/2' below the cross member. My exhaust will be lower than this going under the transmission area at 2 1/2' dia all the way back into the T shirt area of the frame where I will stuff a 2 1/2" X pipe inbetween the frame rails for duals going out the the back of car around the differential area.



AS for Ken, I believe everything fits under the hood with this picture. With stock FI you don't need to mess with intake /carburation clearance for the hood bonet.




This picture shows the 1/2 " away from the frame (under idler pully). If I was to go futher forward, there would be a problem with the water pump area, clearance with the frame cross member in front of the engine, that ties the suspension towers together.

Also in this picture you can see where the original wear was with the belt on the water pump pully. With the Corvette dampaner pully you can see where it did move it back closer to the block some.



Here is a picture of Kens car and his dampaner pully area and frame clearance from under the car looking up.

Hope this has answered some questions Martin.

Calvin

"OK", my brain has been thinking lately, have another 150HP than I was running before with this frame? Hmmm! I need to strengthen the frame more for the Ls1's torque or later when we all want more power.

So have been adding some well needed bracing to the frame. Also ran into some issues with new bushings cracking before even on the road. I bought all Nylatron bushings for front a back suspension. (crappy bushings#!~*%).




The top bushing was cracked to the center (No good).




Here this shows the Nylatron bushings in for the swing arm mount. These bushings will not deflect (a must for Ls1 torque). This is the same material that is used in both front and back sway bar bushings.




This shows almost 1/4" thick walled stainless(corection steel tube) steel tube 1 1/2" dia with 3" square plates at the ends, all welded together at the transmission mount area.




Another picture of the plate and bar welded in.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2008 09:03AM by 74ls1tr6.

OK here, made plates for both sides of the frame. I drilled 1" holes in the plate where the spot welds are(bottom pic). Then welded in the holes and along the outside of the plate all the way around. Cleaned up with grinder then painted. I only did the top side of the frame. I don't want a heavy metal monster in the end. This plate is thicker than the frame material.

On the other side of the trailing arm bolts, I installed a 1/4" steel plate in the section all the way accross so that the four bolts have more to bite up to. *Note: Got this idea From Joe on bowtie6.com...(credit due to Joe's rebuild site and my reaserch for wanting a stronger TR6 Frame)...(Ratco is another strong frame). Also Don W sent me a pic from a rolling BMW engine conversion in a tr6 frame.




Did the same for this are on both sides of the frame (Only on top). If for some reason I need to do the bottom, I can do anytime later.



Boxed in the front differential vertical support section all the way up inside to the top with a flat plate. Also ran weld on the top of the frame box. The factory only ran a weld on the outside front and back on the vertical section,and then down the outsides. Not much weld to hold the whole section at all. The vertical section is thin metal. Sorry my cats whiskers got in that pic (he was bugging me while I was taking pics).




Here is the other side (driver side).



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2008 11:16AM by 74ls1tr6.

The rear differential tower is weak in my mind. I have plumbers hands and have a 150psi grip. I put both of my hands in this area of the arch (front to back) and squeezed hard, was able to see the metal move easily. Not good.

So I made a plate here for both sides on the back side. Welded to the other plate I put in before across the back, and welded to the outside frame rail. The other side has the original lever shock mount which helps strengthen that side.




I boxed in between rear diff mounts in the rear (bottom, front, and back).




Before putting the diff back in and CV axles, I took a hammer and taped areas to hear by sound a before and after, when done, sounded alot more solid.




Nylatron bushings for the front are next with a grade 8 bolts.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2008 08:59AM by 74ls1tr6.

Calvin,

I'll say it just once -- you are a freak, but a freak that does some seriously awesome work. Just great ideas for the chassis reinforcement. I've been all over this site and never seen anything like that yet. Thanks also for the shifter tip, that will definitely work.

I'll write again later, but just wanted to say that I'm impressed!

This is the X pipe I'm using. A 2 1/2" dia X. I cut off the welds on the width of the furthest width of weld. Then re-welded with helium/arigon mixed gas and switch the polarity of my welder for SS pipe, and ss wire (dual welder). In the end result, it was flush with the exit pipes on the outside. I was able to stuff this X-pipe in the T-shirt area of the frame where the original exhaust ran through before the diff area.



I have both sides done with the co2 sensor bungs welded in (I may redo these because I used flux wire first time around). Have the gas now and welding ss pipe with gas mix, leaves a clean weld.

Just to clarify, I meant freak in all the best ways. As in you're going ballistic on this project and its awesome.

Thanks again for the info.

--Martin

I wish I could think of some way to "flag" this message thread or to provide some sort of special award/recognition... because there are so many exceptional photos over here. AWESOME!!!

On most message boards, I wouldn't bother to look at a thread titled "Another New Member saying Hi".

Have you guys seen the TV show "Flight of the Conchords"? There was a particularly hilarious episode where David Bowie appeared in a "freaky freaky dream" sequence... well, this thread is a freaky freaky dream! (Yes, in "all the best ways"...) At their best, hot-rods transcend "craft" and become "art". That's what we're witnessing here.