Triumph Sports Cars

Hi Philip,

My OD on my steering shaft is .751....... the 1 thousand could be the sharks hide I put on there so it wouldn't rust....which is worn off in the Heim area. So probably an even .750 for OD. Do you have a measurement of the inside diameter of the Heim joint? I have a 1/4" play in my steering wheel from left to right sitting still. I need that play because of the Quick Rack that I'm using. A little touchy at high speed, so the little play that I have helps. I think that play is on the rack and pinion though. If I grab ahold of the double universal joint, move it in all directions, it has some play in there, but very little. Question? Are you using the original steering column? If so, did you replace the bushings inside (two)? Can you make a video of what it is doing, and post it up on youtube?

Dennis,

That Speedi-sleeve might work, but may need to press in a small pin, into the main shaft on both sides to hold into place.

I found a speed-sleeve listed to fit a shaft .748 to .752 that is part # 99076. The sleeves add .011 to the shaft diameter, which would have made Calvin's O.D. .763 I think. ( fits .752 and adds .011 = .763??) You could slip a feeler gauge between the shaft and the inside of the heim joint to see what play there is. Also, the speed-sleeve site listed Loctite RC-620 retaining compound to hold the sleeve on a shaft. This would prevent having to drill into or through the shaft.
Am I nuts or what?
Dennis

Dennis,

You're not nuts, you follow through with your research and think out of the box.

How is your project coming along?

Calvin,
The project is coming along, slowly. I must think a lot before doing some of the changes as I don't know what i am doing. I had a hotrodder say to cut out the entire firewall, set the engine in place, and construct around that. Probably good advice, but I was hesitant, and have done picemeal mods. The tub was worse than I thought, so patch repair on sills was ultimately scrapped, and all new installed. Geez Louise!
Current research on paint removal (media, stripper, recycled glass etc.) The tub is ready to stand aside while I check the frame for usefulness.
Thanks for asking! Oh, are you going to Omaha?
Dennis

Ed Peppard: I am interested in your chassis modifications that adapt the Ford 5.0. I am involved in a similar project, and see that you have done exactly what I am planning. Apparently you are not moving the engine back too far, but are lowering it in the frame. Do you care to elaborate? You may PM me if you wish.
Thanks,
Dennis

Hi Dennis,
I will not be attend the Omaha meet this year! I would love to, but have other plans.

Here is a video of the fastest time at Triumpest 2012 autocross at Flagstaff AZ. We had to sweep a ton of gravel off the turns when setting up the autocross track. Happened to do some drifting on my third run which killed my time on the long right hand turn. Tons of fun!!



Here is the same run from inside the car! The red TR250 of Andy Packards in the still frame (on the track), who is very fast with autocross tires, I was able to beat his time with my street tires. What a rush it is on the track! I don't have much time on an autocross track, 3rd time track running for me, but someone with more time in the seat would do better than me I'm sure.

NICE POV, shot with a GoPro?

Hi Don,

"Yes" used my Go Pro Hero II Camera for the video in the car. Brenda was using our Sony projection on the wall type/flip out screen video camera. They both take great video!

Calvin and Dennis
Sorry about being slow getting back to you guys have been doing other things around the house. Just to eliminate where the slack in the steering was coming from I made some bamboo wedges and drove them between the flat spots on the DD shafts and the heim joint. This caused the outer race of the joint to turn but it took all of the slack out of the steering.
I don't have a I.D. heim measurement. I wonder if a 3/4" heim joint would work? I could sand the shafts if they were too tight. I don't think the out side race is supposed to turn.
I have never heard of a speed-sleeve. Where do you get them?
Thanks for the information and your thoughts. In the real world of hot rods this is the way problems are solved.
By the way Street Rodder magazine calls out cars (Sport Rods). Imagination that..
Thanks again
Phil

Phil,
Here is one link I found to the manufacturer and catalog. I believe that SKS, a bearing manufacturer, and Chicago Rawhide, a company I thought made seals, are one company. Anyway, their catalog is where I found the information about speed-sleeves. They are used in many cases of shaft wear at the seal contact point, and renew the sealing surface to allow continued use of the mechanism without replacing the more expensive shaft. (No sales pitch intended!) I just though that using one of them might take up the clearance that was problematic for you.
Dennis
[www2.chicago-rawhide.com]

That's SKF. Biggest bearing company in the world. Roughly twice as big a company as Timken. S for "Svenske", I believe. Volvo was started by SKF and then spun off onto its own. Evidently SKF bought (comparatively tiny) Chicago Rawhide in the nineties...

Thanks Curtis! The PC I had couldn't spell worth a hoot, and my daughter promised this Mac would be better-NOT!
Dennis

Dennis
Thanks for the info. I will take a look and make a decision. I wonder how a 3/4" heim would work? You could always sand the shaft a little.
Thanks Phil

Philip,
I used a 3/4" heim in both spots on my setup.

Calvin
Thanks for the info. I order 2 3/4" hiems yesterday plus the column bushings. I hope this is the last time I have to pull it out. I have been riding around some with loose seats and no belts. The DBW throttle does not fly open from a dead stop like a manual one but it comes on pretty quick. Really makes for a nice start but when it hits 2 ed it gives you gives you about 3 seconds of wheel spin. Impressive for a truck engine. I know you have had fun with your ride and have enjoyed the videos.
Thanks
Philip

I know bringing up and old thread for you to read!

Lately our MGB GT has been at the blasters getting all cleaned up. It had some more perforated holes show up on the floor boards looking like Swiss cheese. There were some other areas too. So I had the shop spray some miracle metalized material over all those areas.

That being said, I had some time to work on the TR6. I took the R200 408 geared diff apart (I purchased at U-pull-it for a whopping $75, normally they run $275 on up), cleaned out, checked bearings and the such. All looked good to go. Put some paint on the case, and cleaned up the diff cover some. I may polish it out some, wipe some Sharks hide on there. While I have the 354 diff out, I'm going to beef up Richard Goods diff bracket on the front mount. May even do the back mount some. I'm also going to try and lengthen the rear sway bar + move up the center part of the bar. This will take care of 2 issues I have. It will give adjustment for the sway bar and give me more clearance for the mufflers. I will be able to hide the mufflers more closer to the trunk area. This will make it look better from behind.

These are some TO Do's I want to get done before this years BV8 meet. I need to install a catch can so it won't smoke anymore. I experienced that on Mid America Motorplex Speedway last year.




I'm going to cut those ears off on both sides of the diff cover. Those are for the ABS sensors that the Nissan 300zx used. This is a 96 diff with a smooth cover. The 354 diff has a fined cover. Both are VLSD R200 diffs. 7 7/8" ring gear I believe.


Brenda's GT teaser.....I know I need to update the build thread so it can feed the illness! I had them blast all the undercoating off the wheel wells and underside. There are a lot of mods you can't see here but some are visible. They will be shown in the build thread. This blasting will cut down my build time, money well spent.


Gt was getting some primer sprayed on at the time I stopped by. I will pick it back up this Saturday. Then stuff is going to be mocked up. Suspension is going in, engine mock up etc. I'm looking forward to it. I have a ton of parts ready so it should move right along.


So this was a Calvinator labs update haha!

Calvin, I have a '94 Q45 R200 diff., and would like to know if you are sourcing a flange yoke in 1310 series u-joint to adapt your driveshaft to the diff.? I have found a PTI 3102-69 to be the one listed for Nissan, but cannot find a listing for Dana/Spicer. Of course, I haven't been to the driveshaft shop yet!
Thanks,
Dennis

You probably know, but if you bought Richard's mounts for a while you may have had them before he amended his instructions.... there's a specified tightening torque now for those countersunk setscrews that hold the rear mount to the diff cover.
Having said that I forget what it is, you might check with him.
Didn't torque mine enough to begin with and one came loose.

Ivor

Calvin,
Sorry for the delay in my reply. I did install the 3/4" heim joints in place of the over size ones and replaced the steering column bushing and this took about 99% of the slack in the steering. Have you thought about installing power steering? I have been looking and thinking about the electric type which I have no room under the dash and the traditional style of belt driven pump. I really dont have room for the pump unless I run it off of the crank like a boat water pump. Like to hear any ideas you have.
Phil

Dennis, I just let the driveline shop install the best and strongest u-joints + flanges on the driveline.

Ivor, Yes those counter sunk screw bolts need to be torqued big time. Mine were starting to loosen up when I took out the 3.54 diff out. A little lock tight went in this last time for sure installing the 4.08 diff back in.

Philip, I really haven't thought to much about power steering on the TR6. My car turns pretty well without it. Just the first few feet of rolling maybe.

I like the 4.08 diff better with this cam I'm running. The cam would surge in higher gears if I didn't down shift into a lower gear in time. the 4.08 seams to be a smoother ride.

So to do the swap I needed Richard Good to make 1" adapters(in between the stub axle and the CV axle), and make another driveline that was 1/2" longer because of the pinion area being shorter (different placed sensor, Q45 has one sensor in the pinion area where the Z300ZX has two on the half shaft stub axles. The flange on the Z300ZX R200 has a smaller diameter flange than the Q45 R200).


Has anyone had their car called a Restomod?

Went to the Western Festival since Brenda was entering our business booth at the show. So this has been the third time I have enter our TR6 at the Classic car show that same weekend.

Our car won the best Restomod award of about 175 hotrods or so.


















Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/05/2014 07:40PM by 74ls1tr6.