Triumph Sports Cars

Already fixed and , just for you, I did a little spirited driving taking on a Camero Z28!

I had a Holley fuel pump with a pressure regulator, but she was dropping pressure at odd times. (anytime would be odd, DAH)
Not up for another $164 hit, I found a better option.(wisdom from "been there, done that")

Our local Club here, on the MG side,(MGA 302 T5) guided me towards a very quiet, low cost, low profile electric fuel pump that most Auto Parts House carry. No special order, No Summitt Racing, No Jeggs, just over the counter.

It's a Universal electric fuel pump, but I did have to give the local store a make and model as they can't locate the bathroom without a computer, make and model info. So, 1984 Ford Mustang, V8, with Carbs. ("WOW, I did not know that Mustangs came with carbs?") I'm showing my age a little.

This little baby is sweet, easy to mount, quiet (I here it when she is switched on, but after pressure is up, you never hear her) and easy on the back pocket.

If I ever switch back to EFI, I'll need to change her out, but for now the wind is in may face and the traffic is looking at my back side!

Do you have any specs on that Mustang fuel pump? My Carter pump is driving me nuts with the noise.

I love this baby! Very quiet!

The Holley would sometimes rattle the mounting plate. I had it located in the same position as the stock electric pumps for the fuel injected TR's.

I'm running a pres. regulator and the guage is reading 5.0 psi


It's rated at 12v, 3.8 to 5.7 psi, 16.8 gal/hr

Here is a link to different resources; my MGA buddy sent me this link to another passionate British car owner.

[mgaguru.com]

Thanks, Don!

I met Barney Gaylord (The MGA Guru) at our MG V8 meet in Champagne, IL in 1999. He has a ton of great info on his website.

Don, Well I guess with the wind in your face and the Z28 looking at your back side is a good thing :-) (The adrenalin rush is on again).

Nice little fuel pump and small enough to put in the glove box "Nice".

I'm going to say it ,,,,,Don does have a vast amount of info and has the passion to share to a fellow car buff what he has learned in his own research ( trial and error, been there done that) along with many others on this forum. I can say this because of many e-mail exchanges with Don and Ken both.

A funny thing was, as soon as I posted for the first time in this forum.... within several days..>Ken found me through a search on the net ....he was able the get my phone number (from my business)....he called me to see if he could help in some way. Now that being said this whole forum is that way. A great place to be for the purist with the power in mind group, make it better, and have fun doing it.

OK! driver side fender mod so the GM alternator will fit. It needs more work but it is coming along better that I thought. I have only done bondo work, this is a little different for me...an english wheel would have helped some ...so bent this by hand and welded in.



Pic taken from the front of body. I'm welding in fill from the other side then grinding down( in the engine compartment side) to get the round edges to look like the other original side.




Pic taken standing on floor boards looking into engine compartment.



The first cut to get alternator in and get an idea what to do?

The body will go on the frame soon, so that when the other areas need to be fabed in...the body stucture won't get tweaked or twisted so body panels, doors, windshield will still fit ok.

It's been in the 80's here lately, working every spare moment left in a day on this project.

A tandem Wilwood master cylinder came in the other day to help with the more brake fluid needed...need to push 10 brake pistons... instead of 2 piston and 2 wheel cylinders. Talked with the Wilwood rep, told him what I was dealing with, end results was a 1 1/8" bore master cylinder. May upgrade later on brakes(room to move a little)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/11/2008 01:06AM by 74ls1tr6.

For someone that has done only bondo work, metal must be your friend. WOW!

When I do my body work, can you move in please.

After your yellow comment, I changed my avitar to reflect my true color!

The alternator fits, but close on the bottom side.



The brake booster is right up against the coil pack on the valve cover. I will move the booster over about 1/4" or so for clearance(for plug wire). I believe the master cylinder will clear under the hood.



I will use the original clutch (GM from Z28) cylinder as Ken used.



Probably use the Z28 radiator, has 2 puller fans and maybe later install the AC that I was able to get with this package on the other side of radiator.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2008 07:33PM by 74ls1tr6.

Need a little work here for drive shaft tunnel cover.



I picked up this LS2 400HP that was in a boat. I just needed to take a break from the project. I like to work hard but also like to play hard too.



Nissan yellow so people can see me on the water at night. 22' Jet boat on plain need only 4" of water.Can do some fishing on the feather river for salmon , stripped bass and shad.



Took the family out on the Sacramento river for a ride. This is I street bridge down town Sacramento where the capitol is close by. Just a great way to relax a little.

Wow! If my TR6 sounds like this LS2 ...I'm already a happy camper



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2008 08:05PM by 74ls1tr6.

Dude! I have so much "Toy Envy" right now! As Napolian Dynomite would say "Luuuuucky!" Seriously the TR6 is looking good. I will see if I can keep up with you "Project Wise", because I know that LS1 is gonna Fly. I hope your paint can keep up with the body when you step on the go now peddle.....

Double Dude! I coming to your toy store. Something tells me that you enjoy the wind in your face!

Is that the placement of the Z28 radiator? It looks to me to be too tall and will conflict with the hood.

But who cares, I drove our TR6 to it's first show and cruise with out the hood on!

AH! YesToy's Frank. ...Don you have me pegged about liking the wind in my face. If I can't get in the TR6 and feel the wind Brenda and myself have worked hard in our lifes to be blessed with the toy's that every man & wife + kids enjoys together.

So right now TR6 has been a planter box for a while...that being said No wind there, so the wind factor works well with this Honda Valkyrie with a 1535 cc engine "OH! hang on". If we can't get on the Valkyrie we will jump on the river with the jet sled or we also have a pair of 1500cc jet skis that will do 65 MPH on the water (which is scary fast on water). So yes feeling alive and living life to it's fullest(safely) with the wind in our face is one of those things we do. I figure someone has to do it.

The Toaster Honda in the back ground is what I use for the service end in my business. One day about a month ago I chased down a red TR6 (in this Toaster) that had a 350 chevy engine. It took me about a mile and a half to get up along side of him and pull him over and talk. I broke just about every law of the road to do this and the family was saying faster he's getting away. I'm working on him to post a "how it was done" soon. He let me drive it and was pretty fast I must say.

Yes, the radiator is just setting in there and I think I can modify to drop it down for hood clearance. I knew somone would see that :-) ...darn can't pass that one off.









Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2008 10:13AM by 74ls1tr6.

Bolted the hood bonet on the TR6 today to check for clearances.

The Wilwood master cylinder has enough clearance(1/2"), radiator is to tall (Don you were right, your eye is good, looking at a picture). I might have had enough room for the engine to be raised the 1/2" for the oil pan to be flush with the frame. I don't think that would have messed with the engine line to the differential to much.

So the end results...will not need to cut hood for any clearance issues.....some room to spare.

I will need to get another radiator, may be a Griffin aluminum crossflow 19"x 27" or? I do know I will need the hose hook up for the Ls6 intake (from intake to radiator). It would be nice if I could use the Z28 fan setup on the Griffin radiator (2 puller fans).

I will need to give the driveshaft tunnel a little more width and clearance on the front driver side and the back passenger side for the drive shaft yokes and U-joints.

Since the body is on, will tack sheet metal in for the firewall needed above throtle pedal and around transmission in the foot boxes. I may try making a transmission cover out of aluminum and try welding aluminum. I have the aluminum wire. I will ask the welding shop what kind of gas to use or if any at all.

The rest of the day I was on the river with the jet sled getting in the first 10 hours. One of the exhaust jacket 5" hose has a 1/2" slice in it where she was blowing exhaust and water out of. So will take her in for the 10 hour check up and let them repalce it. Nice to have 2 1250 gal per hour bilge pumps, one automatic and one by switch :-)...just kept driving, have 9.5 hours good enough.

Hey,

Before you run out for a new radiator, did you check out the space in front of the radiator mounts?

I removed my mounts dropped the radiator down in front. This places it with a slight forward slant.

The unit measure 21.5 x 22.25, but by dropping it down front it cleared the hood.

But not knowing how the Z28 radiator is set up (looks like return is top left side) your inlet on the right lower might conflict with the skin plate mount?

Sorry about the quality of the pics, old digital camera.

The whole radiator here shows the outlet on the right and the inlet on the left. In the engine compartment the outlet is real close to the passenger wheel well. The inlet is OK for clearance. You will notice the overflow conection just below rad cap and just below is the connection that goes to the LS6 intake. Surprising this is a 1 core radiator and aluminum with plastic tanks on the sides. I'm sure these 2 fans can move alot of air.



Width of radiator on the top side. The width is OK if I was to lean top of rad forward (towards grill) for the outlet going to inlet of water pump (for wheel well clearance).



Height of the radiator to cap. I measured from skid plate to hood and came up with( through the grill area with the hood closed) 19" and no more. 21" is to tall...if the cap was not there the core part of the rad is 19"


Shows the radiator cap to high. The rad is sitting forward on the skid plate. Maybe I can take this rad to a local rad shop...ask if there is something they can do with to make this fit.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/25/2008 10:39AM by 74ls1tr6.

It doesn't look like there is any negative camber yet. I sure hope this car will settle down some after all the weight is back on the car. Dings and dents all over this body from moving it around.


I figured to have some fun with the shadow on this pic.

I wonder if anyone can figure out what that black stuff is on this side of the firewall at the top of this photo?? "I know Dan Masters will figure it out". I will tell you what is is in a few days hoping someone figures it out and please post on this if you know?



Need to widen the tunnel cover here by the diff area.



The front by the tran needs the same.

This ia a photo taken from the passenger side of car in the rear, looking through the "RIM", passed the disk rotor looking at the top of differential. Above the diff there is a dish bubble that protrudes under the gas tank. Lot's of room there. Now if I took that and made flat (the bubble) I could...........



Here is the bubble for diff clearance from the top view....this could all be flat here and diff still has plenty of clearance. So I have the tape measure in hand??



So 12" from curve apex centered for seating compartment back panel to trunk panel will fit. There is over 30" across this area and well over 12" from floor to gas cap lid area. I can get 19 gallons of gas in here. Hmmmm that could get me very close to 500 miles on one tank of gas. I have a RCI 19 gallon 30" across 12" high 12" back aluminum fuel cell on order with 8an fuel line and 8an fuel return that I will need for the ls1



The tank will hang over the spare tire some, just need to make a bracket to hold in cell and rubber insulate in the bracket.

Well, the radiator position was worth mentioning. Being that the end sections are plastic, I don't think a shop can do much. If she was metal, you could have them modify it for a remote filler system, like the original AC Cobras. She would clear the hood then.

Nice detail pictures.

About the hump, just keep in mind that the differential does move a little. Mainly under high torque, and since we are putting more high torque opportunity engines in these rockets, make sure you keep some space on top, hence the hump. But I agree with you that some extra room can be had here by mods to the tank area.

How attached are you to the area behind the seats? If you designed a tapered style tank ( larger at the bottom, tapered at the top) that extended just a little into the deck area behind the seats, use the same interior panels but just titled more, pull the lower carpet in the rear up towards the bottom of the panel to cover the gap. Design the same taper towards the trunk and the same mods with the trunk panel but instead of carpet, use black material on all the panels. I hate the board look.

I'll send pics tonight.

Don, I Agree with the board look, kind of cheap looking.


This photo shows the black stuff I was talking about to see if anyone could guess. "Yes" back in the mid 80's this car caught on fire while I was driving on the freeway. One of the wires grounded out going through the firewall, well I had smoke coming up through the defroster vent. I pulled over really fast off the freeway and opened up the glove box door, seeing that my TR6 was about to to be a pile of ash, I punched out the glove box and found the flame, the heater duct was flaming yellow, so I grabed it with my bare hands and started yanking it out, burning my hands with the wire coil that was in the duct. I did save this car twice with wire fire issues.


I'm definately going with Dan Masters kit for this one dangerous reason, I don't want to loose my TR6 from a fire because of wire.The main hot wire fried completely through the lenght of the wiring harness. In this fire I only had to replace 1 wire. All know here had to take the dash out to do that.


More photos coming soon of gas tank mods, radiator mods, firewall mods, and drive shaft cover raised.

OK, cut out this section out where the original gas tank was bolted in. The hump over the differential wasn't altered.



OK, in welding the sheet metal back in (not finished yet) so that the fuel cell can be installed and removed. May not be able to have spare tire, but a donut spare will fit.


This photo shows the 19 gal fuel cell in the newly moded area.



The filler neck at the 12 bolt up will be changed to a 45 degree fill neck pointing towards the body gas hatch.

This photo shows the placement of the fuel cell behind the back seat area, plenty of room for some base speakers now.


Welded up this angle aluminum frame to set the fuel cell in to. This will make it easier to strap cell into place and secure it better.



First time welding aluminum. I had to be careful of the feed speed with this dual welder I have. It would get spun up inside the welder power feed since the wire is so soft. But It worked. Used gas with the aluminum.



This photo shows where the shifter ends up with the original transmission/dash brace. I might be able to mod the brace and still use it, but the shifter would have to have a U shape welded in to lenghten, to set the shifter inside the original shifter location. Or may fab out some kind of brace between frame and dash for rigidity.